AE RC10B6, Instruction Manual

20

:: Tuning Tips (cont.)

Rear Camber:

Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at from the back.  Negative camber means 

that the tire leans inward at the top.  A good starting camber setting is -1°.  Adding a small amount of positive camber, 

where the top of the tire is leaning out, will tend to improve straight-line acceleration on loose tracks.

Optional #1719 camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.

Slipper Clutch:

The assembly instructions give you a base setting for your clutch.  Turn the nut on the shaft so that the end of the top 

shaft is even with the outside of the nut.  At the track, tighten or loosen the nut in 1/8 turn increments until you hear 

a faint slipping sound for 1-2 feet on takeoffs.  Another popular way to set the clutch is to hold both rear tires firmly in 

place and apply short bursts of throttle.  If the clutch is properly set, the front tires should lift slightly up off the surface.

Front Camber:

Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when 

looked at from the front.  Negative camber means that the tire leans 

inward at the top.  A good starting camber setting is -1°.  Positive camber, 

where the top of the tire is leaning out, is not recommended.  

Optional #1719 camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.

*Testing camber 

with camber gauge

!

Front Camber Links:

Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than 

adjusting the ball end height on the tower.  Shortening the camber link 

(or lowering the ball end) will give the front end less roll and quicken steering 

response.  Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ball end) will give the 

front more roll and slower steering response.  Longer camber links are 

typically used on high grip tracks and shorter links tend to work better on 

medium-grip loose tracks.

*Raise or lower the 

ball end by adding 

or removing

   washers here

!

Rear Camber Link:

Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than adjusting 

the ball end height on the rear chassis brace.  Shortening the camber link 

(or lowering the ball end) will give the rear  end less roll and the car will tend to 

accelerate or “square up” better.  Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ball 

end) will give the rear more roll and more cornering grip.  Longer camber links are 

typically used on high grip tracks, while shorter links tend to work better on 

medium grip loose tracks.  The kit setting is the best compromise of cornering grip 

and acceleration.

*Raise or lower 

the ball end by 

adding or 

removing

   washers here

!

Gear Box Type:

Selecting the correct gear box is dependent on the type of track it will be used on. The optional 4 gear stand-up gear 

box is for the lowest grip conditions. This gear box moves the weight towards the rear of the car and also uses the 

rotation of the motor to transfer weight to the rear while on-power. The 3 gear stand-up gear box also moves the 

weight towards the rear of the car, but in this configuration, the motors rotation helps with on-power steering. 

The lay-down gear box is used on high grip conditions when on-power steering and stability are most important. 

This gear box will change directions the quickest and generate the most steering. 

Caster:

Caster describes the angle of the kingpin as it leans toward the rear of the vehicle.  Positive caster means the kingpin 

leans rearward at the top.  The B6 includes three inserts to adjust caster angle at the caster block, 0

°

,

2.5

°

, and +5

°

.  

The total caster angle is the sum of the kick-up angle and the caster block angle.  Standard total caster angle for the 

B6 is 30

°

, with 25

°

 kick-up and +5

°

 caster block angle.  

For less entry steering and more exit steering, try 0

°

 caster block angle.