AEG ACS58B18, Instructions Manual

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Before starting the product, make sure that the saw chain is not 
contacting any object.
Do not modify the product in any way or use it to power any 
attachments or devices not recommended by the manufacturer.
There should be a first-aid kit containing large wound dressings and 
a means to summon attention (e.g., whistle) close to the operator. A 
larger more comprehensive kit should be reasonably nearby.
Wear a helmet at all times when operating the product. A helmet, 
equipped with mesh visor, can help reduce the risk of injury to the 
face and the head if kickback occurs.
An incorrectly tensioned chain can jump off the guide bar and could 
result in serious injury or fatality. The length of the chain depends on 
the temperature. Check the tension frequently.
You should get used to your new chainsaw by making simple cuts on 
securely supported wood. Practice making cuts whenever you have 
not operated the saw for some time.
To reduce the risk of injury associated with contacting moving parts, 
always stop the motor, apply the chain brake, remove the battery pack 
and make sure all moving parts have come to a stop:

■

before cleaning or clearing a blockage

■

before leaving the product unattended

■

before installing or removing attachments

■

before checking, conducting maintenance, or working on the 
product

The size of the work area depends on the job being performed as 
well as the size of the tree or workpiece involved. For example, felling 
a tree requires a larger work area than making other cuts, such as 
bucking cuts. The operator needs to be aware and in control of 
everything happening in the work area.
Do not cut with your body in line with the guide bar and chain. If 
you experience kickback, this position helps prevent the chain from 
coming into contact with your head or body.
Do not use a back-and-forward sawing motion; let the chain do the 
work. Keep the chain sharp and do not try to push the chain through 
the cut.
Do not put pressure on the saw at the end of the cut. Be ready to take 
on the weight of the saw as it cuts free from the wood. Failure to do so 
could result in possible serious personal injury.
Do not stop the saw in the middle of a cutting operation. Keep the saw 
running until it is already removed from the cut. 

Personal protective equipment

Good quality personal protective equipment, as used by professionals, 
will help reduce the risk of injury to the operator. The following items 
should be used when operating the product:

■

Safety helmet

■

Hearing protection

■

Eye and face protection

■

Gloves

■

Leg protection (chaps)

■

Chainsaw safety boots

–

Occasional users may use steel toe-cap safety boots with 
protective gaiters if the ground is even and there is little risk 
of tripping or catching on undergrowth

■

Chainsaw jackets for upper body protection

INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING THE PROPER 

TECHNIQUES FOR BASIC FELLING, LIMBING, AND 

CROSS-CUTTING
Understanding the forces within the wood

When you understand the directional pressures and stresses inside 
the wood, you can reduce the pinches or at least expect them during 
your cutting. Tension in the wood means the fibers are being pulled 
apart, and if you cut in this area, the kerf or cut tends to open as the 
saw goes through. If a log is being supported on a saw-horse and the 
end is hanging unsupported over the end, tension is created on the 
upper surface due to the weight of the overhanging log stretching 
the fibers. Likewise, the underside of the log is compressed, and the 
fibers are being pushed together. If a cut is made in this area, the 
kerf will have the tendency to close up during the cut. This cut would 
pinch the blade.

Push and pull

The reaction force is always opposite to the direction the chain is 
moving. Thus, the operator must be ready to control the tendency 
for the product to pull away (forward motion) when cutting on 
the bottom edge of the bar and the push backwards (towards the 
operator) when cutting along the top edge.

Saw jammed in the cut

Stop the chainsaw, and make it safe. Do not try to force the chain and 
bar out of the cut as this is likely to break the chain, which may swing 
back and strike the operator. This situation normally occurs because 
the wood is incorrectly supported, which forces the cut to close under 
compression, thereby pinching the blade. If adjusting the support 
does not release the bar and chain, use wooden wedges or a lever 
to open the cut and release the saw. Never try to start the chainsaw 
when the guide bar is already in a cut or kerf.

Skating/Bouncing

When the chainsaw fails to dig in during a cut, the guide bar can 
begin hopping or dangerously skidding along the surface of the log 
or branch, possibly resulting in the loss of control of the chainsaw. To 
prevent or reduce skating or bouncing, always use the saw with both 
hands. Make sure that the saw chain establishes a groove for cutting.
Never cut small, flexible branches or brushes with your chainsaw. 
Their size and flexibility can easily cause the saw to bounce towards 
you or bind up with enough force to cause a kickback. The best tool 
for that kind of work is a hand saw, pruning shears, an axe, or other 
hand tools.

Felling a tree

See figures 1 - 8.

When bucking and felling operations are being performed by two 
or more persons at the same time, the felling operations should 
be separated from the bucking operation by a distance of at least 
twice the height of the tree being felled. Trees should not be felled 
in a manner that would endanger any person, strike any utility line, or 
cause any property damage. If the tree does make contact with any 
utility line, the company should be notified immediately.
The chainsaw operator should keep on the uphill side of the terrain as 
the tree is likely to roll or slide downhill after it is felled.
An escape path should be planned and cleared as necessary before 
cuts are started. The escape path should extend back and diagonally 
to the rear of the expected line of fall.

Before felling starts, consider the natural lean of the tree, the location 
of larger branches, and the wind direction to judge which way the 
tree will fall.
Remove dirt, stones, loose bark, nails, staples, and wire from the tree.
Do not attempt to fell trees that are rotten or have been damaged by 
wind, fire, lightning, etc. This is extremely dangerous and should only 
be completed by professional tree surgeons.

1.  Notching undercut

See figures 1 - 6.

Make the notch 1/3 the diameter of the tree, perpendicular to the 

direction of the fall. Make the lower horizontal notching cut first. 

Cutting the horizontal notching cut first helps to avoid pinching 

either the saw chain or the guide bar when the second notch is 

being made.

2.  Felling-back cut

See figures 1 - 6.

Make the felling-back cut at least 50 mm/2 in. higher than the 

horizontal notching cut. Keep the felling-back cut parallel to the 

horizontal notching cut. Make the felling back cut so that  enough 

wood is left to act as a hinge. The hinge wood keeps the tree from 

twisting and falling in the wrong direction. Do not cut through 

the hinge.
As the felling gets close to the hinge, the tree should begin to 

fall. If there is any chance that the tree may not fall in the desired 

direction or it may rock back and bind the saw chain, stop cutting 

before the felling-back cut is complete and use wedges of wood, 

plastic, or aluminium to open the cut and drop the tree along the 

desired line of fall.
When the tree begins to fall, remove the chainsaw from the cut, 

stop the motor, put the chainsaw down, and use the retreat 

path planned. Be alert for falling overhead limbs and watch your 

footing.

Removing buttress roots

See figures 7 - 8.

A buttress root is a large root extending from the trunk of the tree 
above the ground. Remove large buttress roots before felling. Make 
the horizontal cut into the buttress first, followed by the vertical 
cut. Remove the resulting loose section from the work area. Follow 
the correct tree felling procedure after you have removed the large 
buttress roots. 

Bucking a log

See figures 9 - 11.

Bucking is cutting a log into lengths. It is important to make sure your 
footing is firm and your weight is evenly distributed on both feet. 
When possible, the log should be raised and supported by the use 
of limbs, logs, or chocks. Follow the simple directions for easy cutting. 
When the log is supported along its entire length, it is cut from the 
top (overbuck).
When the log is supported on one end, cut 1/3 the diameter from the 
underside (underbuck). Then make the finished cut by overbucking 
to meet the first cut.
When the log is supported on both ends, cut 1/3 the diameter from 
the top (overbuck). Then make the finished cut by underbucking the 
lower 2/3 to meet the first cut.
When bucking on a slope, always stand on the uphill side of the log. To 
maintain control when “cutting through”, release the cutting pressure 
near the end of the cut without relaxing your grip on the chainsaw 
handles. Don’t let the chain contact the ground. After completing the 
cut, wait for the saw chain to stop before you move the chainsaw. 
Always stop the motor before moving from tree to tree.