Associated Electrics 7081, Manual & Catalog

24

:: Tuning Tips (cont.)

Caster:

Caster describes the angle of the kingpin as it leans toward the rear of the vehicle.  Positive caster means the kingpin 

leans rearward at the top.  

Rear Camber:

Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at from the back.  Negative camber means 

that the tire leans inward at the top.  A good starting camber setting is -1°.  Adding a small amount of positive camber, 

where the top of the tire is leaning out, will tend to improve straight-line acceleration on loose tracks.

#1719 camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.

Front Camber Links:

Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than 

adjusting the ball end height on the tower.  Shortening the camber link 

(or lowering the ball end) will give the front end less roll and quicken steering 

response.  Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ball end) will give the 

front more roll and slower steering response.  Longer camber links are 

typically used on high grip tracks and shorter links tend to work better on 

medium-grip loose tracks.

*Raise or lower the 

ball end by adding 

or subtracting

   washers here

!

Rear Camber Link:

Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than adjusting 

the ball end height on the rear chassis brace.  Shortening the camber link 

(or lowering the ball end) will give the rear  end less roll and the car will tend to 

accelerate or “square up” better.  Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ball 

end) will give the rear more roll and more cornering grip.  Longer camber links are 

typically used on high grip tracks, while shorter links tend to work better on 

medium grip loose tracks.  The kit setting is the best compromise of cornering grip 

and acceleration.

*Raise or lower 

the ball end by 

adding or 

subtracting

   washers here

!

Wheelbase Adjustment:

You have three options for rear hub spacing, Forward, Middle, & Back.  

The kit setting provides the most rear traction, and will be used most often.  

A short wheelbase will make the rear end more responsive

*Spacers to the rear 

will place hubs 

forward, shortening 

   the wheelbase

!

Front Camber:

Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when 

looked at from the front.  Negative camber means that the tire leans 

inward at the top.  A good starting camber setting is -1°.  Positive camber, 

where the top of the tire is leaning out, is not recommended.  

#1719 camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.

*Testing camber 

with camber gauge

!

Ride Height:

Ride height is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the 

chassis.  The standard front ride height setting is with the front 

arms level (reffered to as “arms level”).  Check the ride height by 

lifting up the entire car about 8-12 inches off the bench and drop 

it.  After the suspension “settles” into place, add or remove 

pre-load clips so that the left & right arms appear to be level.

The rear ride height setting you should use most often is with the 

outdrive, driveshaft, and axles all on the same imaginary 

horizontal line (reffered to as “bones level”).  Check the ride 

height by lifting up the entire car about 8-12 inches off the bench 

and drop it.  After the suspension “settles” into place, add or 

remove pre-load clips so that the left & right driveshafts appear 

to be level.

*Front arms should be 

in a straight line when 

ride height is set at 

“arms level”

*Dogbones should be in 

a straight line when ride 

   height is set at 

“dogbones level”

!

!