page 48
❏
Figs. 198 & 199
For electronic speed
controls we need to finish the wiring between the ESC and
the battery. If you look closely at the battery you will see that
the positive terminal has the pin side of the connector
soldered to it and the negative terminal has the socket side
of the connector soldered to it. This is done so that you cannot
connect the leads to the wrong end of the battery. Gently
push the matching positive connector socket onto the con-
nector pin. Taking the red positive lead from the speed
control, measure the wire so that it will be as short as possible
but not so short that you cannot easily remove or install the
socket from the pin. Cut your wire and solder it to the socket.
Note: If you have a four wire speed control, it does not matter
which red (or orange) wire goes to the battery. The second
red wire then goes to the motor. Now take the piece of red
wire you cut off and solder it to the opposite side of the
connector socket. This wire will then connect to the motor at
its other end. Next gently install the connector pin onto the
negative terminal connector socket.
Now take the black wire from the speed control and
route it so that it will be as short as possible, but not be hard
to remove or connect. Cut the wire and solder it to the
connector pin.
Racers tip: If you are going to run both six and
seven cell battery packs make sure you leave the black
battery wire long enough so that it can reach the negative
connection points for either battery setup.
Fig. 198
Fig. 199
❏
Figs. 200 & 201
If you have plug connectors for
the motor run them over the top of the rear bulkhead. If you
are going to hard wire the motor (solder the wire directly to the
motor) slide the blue and red wires that go to the motor
through the opening in the side of the rear bulkhead. Now
measure the motor lead wires and cut them to the correct
length. Make sure you leave some slack in the wires for motor
adjustment. Now go ahead and solder the wires to the motor.
Make sure the red wire is soldered to the positive side and the
blue wire is soldered to the negative side.
WARNING!!:
Some speed controls use different color wires. Always
double check your speed control owners manual to
verify that their wiring instructions match ours. If they
are different follow the instructions from the ESC manu-
facturer.
Fig. 200
Fig. 201
WHEELS AND TIRES
Note: BECAUSE WE ARE CONSTANTLY IMPROVING
THE PERFORMANCE OF OUR TRUCKS, THE TIRES IN
YOUR KIT MAY VARY FROM THOSE SHOWN IN THE
PHOTOS. IF WE FIND TIRES THAT WILL IMPROVE THE
HANDLING OF THE TRUCK, WE RESERVE THE RIGHT
TO CHANGE THEM AT ANY TIME.
The bushing kit comes with different wheels and tires than
the ball bearing kit. We will cover both assemblies at the
same time.
❏
Figs. 202 & 203
For Ball Bearing kits remove
the #7822 Proline XTR-M2 "Mini Pin" rear tires and the
#7803Y fluorescent yellow one piece rear wheels from the
rear tire and wheel bag.
Note: These wheels will only fit the
new #7367 rear universal dogbone axles; they will not fit the
original #7362 truck universal dogbone axles or the #6374
rear stub axles in the bushing kits. The foam inserts come
already installed in the tires but make sure they are centered
evenly in the tire. Now we can install the rear tires onto the
one piece wheels. Make sure you seat them evenly on the
wheel.
Racer's Tip: Before we install the rear tires onto the