:: Tuning Tips (cont.)
Anti-Squat:
Anti-squat denotes the angle of the rear arms relative to the ground. Zero anti-squat means that the rear arms are
flat, parallel with the ground. The kit setting is 2 degrees, and can increased to 3 degrees of anti-squat by changing
to the included 3+3 rear suspension mount. Adding anti-squat tends to make the car “rotate” more in corners, but
doesn’t handle as well through the bumps.
Rear Camber Link Length & Number of Washers Under Ballstuds:
Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than adjusting the ballstud height on the rear chassis
brace. Typically shortening the camber link (or lowering the ballstud) will give the rear end less roll and the car will tend
to accelerate or “square up” better. Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ballstud) will give the rear more roll and
more cornering grip. You should normally use the kit setting (inside on tower, middle “B” hole on hub) and only adjust the
ballstud height.
Rear Hub Spacing:
You have 3 options for rear hub spacing, FORWARD, MIDDLE, & BACK. The kit setting MIDDLE provides the most rear
traction, and will be used most often. For additional weight on the rear tires in slick conditions, run hubs FORWARD. For
improved handling in bumps or rhythm sections, try moving the hubs to BACK. This can also make the car handle better
in 180 degree turns.
Rear Camber:
A good starting camber setting is –1 degrees. Use the included #1719 camber gage to set your camber as seen
below. Adding a small amount of positive camber, where the top of the tire is leaning out, will tend to improve straight-line
acceleration on loose tracks.
Rear Arm Hole:
The inner hole in the arm tends to work the best over the bumps and jump sections. Changing to the outer hole in the
rear arm will tend to make the rear end feel more “locked in” and less responsive. You may need to run a softer spring
when using outside in the rear arm.
Rear Tower Hole:
Try adjusting the shock tower hole before changing springs or arm mount location. The kit setting of the middle hole
will be optimal on most tracks. Moving the shock out on the tower will increase typically yield more sidebite (cornering
traction) on corner exit and less bite on entry. Moving the shock in on the tower will yield more stability on entry and less
cornering traction on exit, and is typically better in bumps.
Front and Rear Swaybars:
The optional #91123 4x4 front and #91124 rear swaybar set (a.k.a. anti-roll bar set) allows you to add roll resistance to
stabilize the truck in turns. The bars are 1.5, 1.8, 2.0, and 2.2 mm (from softest to stiffest).
Start with the same size bar front and rear. A swaybar has minimal effect on handling over bumps and jumps.
It is especially helpful tuning item if your truck needs high-speed stability to stop traction rolling.
Rear Ride Height:
The rear ride height setting you should use most often is 27mm (without body). Check the ride height by lifting up the
entire truck about 8-12 inches off the bench and drop it. After the suspension “settles” into place, raise or lower the
shock collars as necessary until there is 27mm gap from the bottom of the chassis to the ground. The chassis should
look level from the side.
Tuning Guide: Making large ride height adjustments up or down from this setting will tend to make the car feel
unpredictable.
Setup Sheets:
Most often, the best way to get your car handling right is to go to our website www.rc10.com and click on the links to
Setup Sheets, then SC10 4x4 setups. Our team of professional drivers help develop these setups at National events.
Also, most drivers have a “base” setup that they use as a starting point for every event. Try running some of our base
setups OR look for track conditions and tires that are similar to your local track and mimic that setup.
Remember, each adjustment has a purpose, so copy everything from the setup sheet and then make adjustments
based on the recommendations in here and in our online tuning guide.
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