Nieuport
11
Bebe
49”
Page
3
Copyright©
2005
‐
11
M.K.
Bengtson
All
Rights
Reserved
Rev
07/11
Remove
the
wing
from
the
board,
and
trim
the
trailing
edge
strip,
the
false
trailing
edge,
the
aileron
leading
edge,
wing
cut
out
block
and
the
wing
bolt
block
to
follow
the
line
of
ribs,
before
pinning
back
down
again
and
adding
the
upper
trailing
edge
and
cap
strips.
Allow
to
dry
thoroughly
before
trimming
and
sanding
to
shape.
DO
NOT
add
the
strut
plates
yet!!!!
Position
the
built
wing
panel
accurately
against
the
drawing
for
the
opposite
wing
panel,
pin
it
securely
in
place,
and
build
the
other
wing
onto
it,
following
the
same
procedure
as
before.
Once
this
wing
has
also
been
trimmed
and
sanded,
the
strut
plates
and
doublers
should
be
firmly
glued
to
the
liteply
strut
ribs.
Just
remember
that
these
ones
go
under
the
wing.
Make
up
the
servo
hatches,
provide
somewhere
for
the
servo
leads
to
run
through
the
wing
and
carefully
and
accurately
drill
the
holes
for
the
self
tapping
screws
and
nylon
bolt
that
will
retain
the
top
wing.
Now
you
can
cut
the
ailerons
from
the
rest
of
the
wing,
shape
the
leading
edge
as
shown,
and
prepare
them
for
hinging.
Your
wings
are
now
ready
to
cover,
have
the
ailerons
hinged
and
the
control
horns
fitted.
Fit
the
servos,
and
with
the
ailerons
held
level
with
the
wings,
make
up
the
pushrods.
Use
a
z
bend
in
the
threaded
rod
at
the
servo
output
arm,
and
a
clevis
at
the
control
horn
end.
SERVO
LEADS
I
have
found
it
helpful
to
use
socket
‐
to
‐
socket
extension
Y
leads
in
the
wings
of
this
type
of
model,
and
a
plug
‐
to
‐
plug
extension
lead
from
the
receiver.
By
mounting
the
Y
lead
socket,
into
which
the
extension
lead
will
plug,
just
proud
of
the
lower
centre
section
(top
wing),
it
is
possible
to
run
the
extension
lead
up
one
of
the
struts,
disguised
as
a
fuel
line
or
similar,
and
avoid
the
need
for
a
hatch
in
the
centre
section.
No
doubt
you’ll
use
whatever
system
you’re
used
to,
but
this
one
is
worth
a
try.
Even
if
there
shouldn’t
actually
be
a
fuel
line,
it
will
still
look
better
than
a
servo
lead.
The
servos
should
be
fixed
to
the
hatches
with
servo
tape,
or
screwed
to
hardwood
blocks
glued
to
the
hatches.
The
output
arm
should
extend
through
the
hatch
and
there
should
be
no
binding
in
operation.
TAIL
SURFACES
These
are
simply
built
over
the
plan,
from
the
pre
cut
parts
and
strip
balsa.
Sand
overall
and
round
off
all
the
edges.
Bend
up
the
wire
elevator
joiner,
and
carefully
drill
the
holes
into
which
the
joiner
will
fit.
Cut
a
groove
in
each
elevator,
to
enable
the
joiner
to
sit
flush,
and
epoxy
the
elevators
onto
the
joiner.
Make
sure
that
they
match
the
width
of
the
tailplane,
and
that
they
are
both
level
with
each
other.
Glue
the
ply
horns
in
place
after
covering.
FUSELAGE
The
fuselage
of
this
model
is
built
as
two
separate
sections,
a
front
and
a
rear,
which
are
then
joined,
since
this
is
the
surest
way
of
easily
producing
a
straight
structure.
An
absolutely
vital
ingredient
of
this
type
of
model.
Begin
assembly
by
building
the
two
rear
frames
over
the
plan.
Having
built
one
side
frame,
allow
it
to
dry
before
removing
from
the
board,
turning
it
over
and
building
the
second
frame
on
top
of
the
first.
Use
some
clear
polythene
sheet
between
the
two
frames
to
prevent
them
sticking
to
each
other,
and
ensure
that
both
frames
are
identical.
Now,
once
again
working
over
the
plan,
join
the
two
frames
using
the
cross
braces,
and
the
piece
of
3/16”
balsa
that
the
tail
skid
fits
into.
Make
every
effort
to
ensure
that
the
structure
is
not
only
straight,
but
also
totally
square.
Allow
this
assembly
to
dry
completely
before
adding
the
1/16”
balsa
fill
to
the
underside,
and
the
two
1/16”
pushrod
exit
pieces.
Even
if
you
intend
to
use
closed
loop
type
control
links,
still
fit
the
exit
parts
since
they
add
a
lot
of
strength
for
very
little
weight.
Set
this
assembly
to
one
side,
and
move
on
to
the
front
section
of
the
fuselage.
Start
by
joining
the
3/16”
balsa
parts
that
make
up
the
two
basic
side
sheets
and
allow
them
to
dry.
Making
sure
that
the
structure
remains
perfectly
straight
and
square,
join
the
side
sheet
parts
using
formers
F1A,
F1B,
F2
and
the
3/16”
ply
motor
plate.
Take
especial
care
to
get
the
motor
plate
the
right
way
up.
Left
side
thrust
built
into
your
model
will
not
help
its
flying
qualities
in
the
least.
Allow
the
glue
to
dry,
and
then
add
the
parts
F3
and
F4,
complete
with
the
triangular
reinforcing
blocks.
Bend
up
and
drill
the
dural
c/s
struts,
drill
the
strut
plates,
and
bolt
the
struts
securely
in
place.
Lock
off
all
the
nuts
with
a
spot
of
CA
to
ensure
they
don’t
come
loose
again
at
a
later
date.
Now,
working
over
the
plan
to
aid
accurate
alignment,
join
the
front
and
rear
fuselage
halves.
So,
now
that
you
have
something
resembling
a
fuselage,
add
the
3/32”
lower
fill
pieces,
formers
D1
‐
D7
and
the
1/8”x1/4”
rear
piece.
Follow
this
by
the
1/16”
sheet
decking
and
the
stringers.
The
stringers
butt
against
D3
and
the
1/8”x1/4”
piece,
the
latter
being
shaped
to
follow
the
lines
of
the
stringers.
Sand
the
structure
overall,
before
