Bernina 900, Manual

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Page 2: ...astic seam s 10 Elastic thread 14 Gatherer 3 1 Gathering of material 14 Hem gauge 41 Hemmer 28 Hemstitching 38 Inserting zips 25 Jersey seams 9 Lap hemmer 30 Monograms 40 Overlock 11 Parts of the machine 2 Patching jersey 8 Patching material 20 Pintucking 37 Reverse sewing 4 Sewing on buttons 24 Straight stitch 4 Tailor tacking 26 Technical hints 3 Wool darning 23 Zigzag sewing 5 ...

Page 3: ... Bernina dealer Your samples of work can then be mounted on the red printed spaces provided and a valuable work of reference can thus be compiled Special attachments are required for some of the jobs described in this book These can be supplied against extra charge Your Bernina dealer will be glad to advise you As soon as you have mastered the sewing techniques taught to you during your instructio...

Page 4: ...11 Carrying handle 6 12 Left Center Right adjusting knob BERNIA needle position 5 13 Stitch width adjusting knob zigzag 14 Utility stitch and buttonhole setting knob 15 Winder spindle 16 Handwheel 3 17 Handwheel release 18 Accessories 19 Front half of case I 20 Reverse sewing button 21 Drop feed control a22 Stitch length adjusting knob 23 Free arm cover plate 24 Free arm 25 Base plate 26 Hinged co...

Page 5: ...eft elbow on the table even when using the slide on sewing plate which makes sewing easier Sit exactly in front of the needle bar The mastering of your sewing depends only on how you guide the material The basic rules are therefore 1 Guide the material as close as possible from the side and near the presser foot 2 not from the front 3_1 and not with the hand flat Nor must the material be pulled to...

Page 6: ...corresponds roughly to that Set stitch length knob to desired length of the forward stitch set in sector 0 2 VA Ii Normal stitch length ippox 1 5 Needle Position a With the needle position knob the needle can be set at right or at left for 14 buttonholes blind hemming zips etc Securing in thick seams For normal sewing the needle re mains in the centre Stitch length not too short I Before stitching...

Page 7: ... rule the following isvalid zigzag not too wide stitch length not too long First trim the edge neatly 14 _ j v I Zigzag sewing Set zigzag width according to work and __ material Trimming seams Wrapping J If you guide the work like this From the front close to the foot fingers on the edge you will easily get a neat finish zigzg no to wid sttchlengh no to ...

Page 8: ... embroidering to pre vent the material tightening through the width of the zigzag Not tissue paper since too soft Typewriter paper issuitable 22 Satin stitch close zigzag K b1k IKK i When embroidering always use the attachment table so that By turning the stitch setting knob 22 from stop 0 to the right direction of arrow the satin stitch spacing the work runs evenly beneath the foot can be finely ...

Page 9: ...xtra thread 77 How to hold the extra thread IC Not like this because you obscure your view of the work Jersey hems for underwear Hem wthou tuc Hem withoutuck But like this This way the view is clear and the work can be guided easily tHol thet Imotanea slightly taut while sew K ing and the Jersey will not stretch so much The thread can also be guided throughA V the hole in the needle plate like pin...

Page 10: ...zigzag just covering the edge then Whenever possible make the patches in round shapes a second time one presser foot width from the first seam For cotton Jersey use the extra thread to avoid waving Afterwards cut the damaged piece out on the wrong side Hold the scissors NN correctly This way is much easier Palm ofthe hand towards you hold ing the scissors quite flat Cut only with the tips of the s...

Page 11: ...ssors needle leaves holes o co rrectly 3 Use fine mercerised thread corretly a Gusset Seam 4 Press each seam after sewing and 1 1st run not all seams together when the work is completed Pin the pieces together leaving the double layer gusset pro truding about A inch Sew atone presserfoot width from the inner edge o2nd run 0 t Press the whole seam towards single layer of Jersey and sew at one press...

Page 12: ...rwear is 414 Iron hem Do not turn under the edge _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _M easure_ _ de t of im and then sew Lytework under the presser foot so that the somewhat widerzigzag stitch is Idirctedtowards the edge of the hem Fiihby cutting away surplus fabric on _______________________________th sewn_________________ edge 10 ...

Page 13: ... Vari Overlock The overlock seam is used for sewing together and Ctrimming Warning material edge must lie to the right The following should be noted with overlock sewing synthetic fabrics should always be sewn with a synthetic thread ...

Page 14: ...ght The zigzag stitch stretches as much on with zigzag Trim off surplus on as the elastic wrong side along zigzag Hold the scissors correctly The easiest way when sewing Jer sey is to gather it up first sewing long straight stitches then draw the under thread and pull work up to de sired length k After this pin on the elastic and sew it withzigzag Trim off surplus mate rial on the wrong side Hold ...

Page 15: ...ng side against Flturninght sito wng p sie azigzait Prepare and press turnings Sew zigzag over this pressed edge straight stitch and press Sew a zigzag as for oversewing Guide work as for oversewing Finally trim seam over the straight stitch Then cut away turnings Hold scissors correctly off the turnings along the zigzag seam Hold the scissors correctly 13 ...

Page 16: ...thread and oversewn with zigzag Con gathers For a second row one presser trary to elastic the cotton is not pulled while sewing but only foot width pull material straight while afterwards Hold both yarns and gather material Always sewing sew two rows at a distance of 2 mm A inch When doing it on socks do not pull the elastic too much Normal gathering Short pieces or sheer fabrics can also be gathe...

Page 17: ...the fold Normal setting Very poor position N m K This is the correct way Fingers of left w w wv hand must lie on the folded edge so that they can feel the regular feeding of the work Hold the work very lightly i while sewing Oversew and prepare the hem as dia gram baste with machine or by hand V 4 inch from edge and press 15 ...

Page 18: ...magic needle has two eyes one Set zigzag knob 13 toO before starting to sew and after finish above the other The lower eye is ing so that a few stitches can be sewn up threaded for regular sewing For bast ing thread the upper eye Choose stitch length according to ma terial and work not too short or the basting may not easily be removed It is important to pin first especially for cross stripes that...

Page 19: ...pare piece of material before _____ starting to sew Before starting move needle down wards to about foot height and check j 22 whether needle is in the middle of the Needle raised presser foot slot Set selector knob to 3 machine sews second bead UIf not turn the handwheel until the r backwards needle is raised again cý 21 But in no event alter position of zigzag and needle Now push work under foot...

Page 20: ...trial of the presser foot buttonhole on a scrap of the same fabric to be used 1 Engage buttonhole device Move needle downwards to foot level to check that it comes in the middle of the foot opening If not do one stitch by hand but never change zigzag or needle position Bring work underneath foot and put needle down exactly at the beginning of button hole inner end Do not lower the foot yet 2 Place...

Page 21: ...a y Ot 0 KrInK 04 c Hop tr 0 Now sew over patch edge with running stitch Take care to oversew edges cor rectly 3rd run 4 Modern Darning 0 with running stitch Along inneredgeof running stitch sewa straight stitch Cut away damaged part Straight stitch makes the trimming tL ost 0 much more easy Always underlay afine fabric Sew 2 5 rows of running stitch according to the Oversew edges correctly See di...

Page 22: ...a long thread contrasting colour stitch length 4 This basting groove at the front It must be possible seam provides the sewing line on the back and is easily for the thread to lie completely in this removed at the end groove while sewing otherwise wrong There are two possibilities of sewing cordonnet from the stitches and broken threads result in bobbin case addition to an unsightly stitch pattern...

Page 23: ...erformed on the back of the material 3 Fancy saddle stitch Sew a trial sample The Bernina universal stitch produces an attrac tive fancy saddle stitch Warning the decorative seam is formed as with basting at the left hand needle penetration Kt of t 1 tJ The Magic needle is only available as No 80 p 9 h42 tw rw Therefore cordonnet cannot be sewn as upper thread with this needle See introductory com...

Page 24: ...Bernina Naihhefte Les Cahiers Bernina Suaderni ernina Bernina Sewing Manuals Bernina Naaiboekjes Bernina Sdmhamften ...

Page 25: ...e Gewebe Fadon No 17 et 18 Stretch et couture francese nmaterials synthetic fabrics Nr 17 en 18 Stretch en het engelska Jr 13 Die Anprobe dui Stretch No 170e 18 Stretch e cucire to thread naaien van stretch inhef Nr 17 och 18 Sdmnad 14r 17 und 18 Stretch und No 20 Coudre oui mais oOi stretch tedesco e francese No 13 Fitting Engels elastiska tyger tyska Jahen von Stretch Installation dui coin coutu...

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Page 27: ...Thumb facing the frame slightly bent 2 Selvedgeway Not too dense or it side of little finger to the frame becomes too thick around the hole Starting position of the fingers as in the 3 Same way as 2nd run but only over picture opposite one another M hole itself losing threads in 2nd run of stitching How to darn correctly 4L 6 Make the turning points of each row s c blunt or the stitching will draw...

Page 28: ...e ring stretch it to its maximum and insert the spring clip so that the area to be darned is in the centre It is obvious here that we do the 1st stitch run sideways and the 2nd run lengthways as we cannot turn the frame to another angle d n f ý23 Wrong way to hold work Nee 30ie 8 Darning fine socks sleeves etc S ct 1iýIc0t 0 Kno 0 4 WOJ J Correct way to hold work T With the right hand keep the are...

Page 29: ...e too deep acurve at the Terry cloth towels ends or the threads will be too far apart Apply the wool threads close toge ther over the hole theymay even lie K 1 slightly over one another Always move work sideways left to right and vice versa Thread machine with matching thread Lay the wool in the slot of the presser foot The wool will then be guided auto matically 2nd run Oversewing the threads Cut...

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Page 31: ...o bottom once with the needle position right and once with the needle position left Hint The easiest way to insert a zip Sew seam first with a very long straight stitch or basting stitch then press open Damp if necessary Finish the edges then unpick the seam When stitches are very long they are easy to remove When inserted like this both sides remain even and are not distorted 25 ...

Page 32: ...hreads Tacking with sewing thread lay the thread sideways under the pres ser foot When tacking by hand one works direct Tacking with basting thread ly alongside the pattern It is to be specially for woollens I recommended when working by ma Basting thread for top thread only chine savestime totransferthe pattern normal sewing thread in bobbin ontothe material with chalk and then re r move the patt...

Page 33: ...Tailor tacking Mark the corners this way and th dat RAW e thisA uj il WIii iii iiiiii iiiiiii LWii iiX ih andiiii the dart Ile thi oi i uN I ii i N i27 ...

Page 34: ...hey will pull apart Sew first Aseam _ VV Leave needle in the fabric and lift pres ser foot Tautly hold the first fold under the presser foot with the left hand and draw it through the spiral on the presser foot How to guide the work When guiding fabric hold it taut and lift it slightly The edge of the fabric must Fold edge of fabric twice and draw a be vertical and run through the machine strong t...

Page 35: ...r foot and draw through the spiral on the foot Still holding the fabric taut draw it towards you and lay the end under the needle Stick the needle in and lower foot Sewing procedure as for normal hem ming To facilitate sewing on the corner one should hold the tacked thread together with the sewing thread and pull gently until the presser foot no longer lies on the corner Y29 VIi j ...

Page 36: ...s ser foot Sew a few stitches Leave needle in the fabric lift presser foot and guide fabric into the foot o 80 When sewing make sure that the same width of material enters the feller all the time Guide the fabric as you do when sewing a hem Second operation Now iron seam well guide it again into the feller and sew the second row of stiches Pull fabric slightly sideways on both sides of the feller ...

Page 37: ...nd and the upper piece with the right hand Always pull slightly N towards the right hand corner of the presser foot I Calculation The amount of gather depends on the length of the stitch The longer the stitch the tighter the gather For tight gathering the upper piece of material can be pulled W a little The material to be gathered always lies under the foot and the flat piece in the slot 31 ...

Page 38: ...a fold if the piece of work is large see diagram Guide near the 1 Sew along the traced lines on the presser foot wrong side 2 Turn to right side and cut away neatly along the sewn lines any surplus applique material At the same time re move the frame Hold scissors cor rectly First put your hand in the position as Guiding the work when darning Then draw forefinger You may work with or without the b...

Page 39: ...work will now be oversewn carefully continue sewing slightly Curves Using the same method as for blunt corners KYJ L__ __ __ __ Multi oeloured applique work 2 Trim away surplus applique mate 3 When covering the contours leave riac cutting as closely as possible to the straight stitched edge uncovered The lower part zigzag stitches Where a i s g titch Ths will be covered again by the next f Onlythi...

Page 40: ...I f foot Now whilst sewing slowly turn uehtidostld vrr zigzag onto 4 again sewing slowly ue it 4 Corner with diagonal design for fes toonery Needle position left L Remember the following a Laytheworkunderthesfootisothatthe when embroidering over satin stitch b design can be seen in the slot that runs and ornamental stitch seams lengthwise b Sew to the corner i e till the needle is about to make as...

Page 41: ... the work nue sewing carefully Pull on the loop under the foot in such a way that the until the foot no longer lies on the cor Draw pearl yarn No 5 or 8 according tothfotPaetecrdmsty1py ner To make loop disappear pull the material through the hole of the em thefoPhth eofdhemostl In ends of the cord See diagram Push broidery foot Sew seam with satin intotherighthand grooveofthefoot In corner stitch...

Page 42: ...thread ten This special needle produces very sion ensure that one of the threads goes beautiful effects particularly on fine to the left and one to the right of the ten materials either shades of one colour or sion disc different colours Setting Double needle 36 ...

Page 43: ...intucks How the pintucking yarn is intro dluced K 1 To sew pintucks 2 top threads are need ed for double needle When threading the machine take care that the two threads are not twisted together but bring them singly from take up lever to the needles iH The quickest way to set up the ma The gimp is threaded like this chine for pintucking The regular spacing between the tucks Insert bobbin case Do ...

Page 44: ...ie double Hemstitch a piece of fine material in the manner described until you get atrellis effect With this trellis make a normal applique Finish by cutting away background material from under trellis Trellis work with metallic thread Lurex Can be used as a border e g for astole A very attractive effect is brought about if adouble me tallic thread is led through the hole in the embroi A dery foot...

Page 45: ...e can 714 sew exactly into the holes of the first kf seam do not hold back work Double hemstitch needle Zigzag hemstitch D Sewthe first side ofthe hemstitch row of embroidery Just pierce the last left stitch then turn back the hand wheel again and raise the presser foot Turn work With the wide needle stitch through the previously pierced hole and continue sewing Do not hold the sew ing work back F...

Page 46: ...o I x the finger of the bobbin case the work grams L will run more smoothly as with button hole sewing To produce a perfect monogram a great Method deal depends on how the frame is held n 1 l Me thodt material sewa few straight stitches and better the result 11 cut the thread ends Set zigzag Place J needle ready to begin and make a test stitch The drawn line must be in the qucl 17 F i i ir middle ...

Page 47: ... buttonhole with a length of 2 2 cm O o i smarked For spherical buttons a little bit more 1 Buttonhole gauge 2 Ruler 3 Hem gauge Marking the width of hems by means of the hem gauge Th lsic gue w ich iseclsd with the accessories can be used as a i ruler I asa hemgauge ofasagaugeIfor marking the length of buttonholes Fo hada e f c 4 abtohlewt egho 2c TC snre ...

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