Needle, Fabric, Thread Selection Guide
Needle size
Fabrics
Thread
Most threads sold are medium size and
suitable for these fabrics and needle sizes.
9-11/65-75
Lightweight fabrics-thin cottons, voile,
serge, silk, muslin, Qiana, interlocks,
cotton knits, tricots, jerseys, crepes,
woven polyester, shirt & blouse fabrics.
Light-duty thread in cotton, nylon or
polyester.
Use polyester threads on synthetic
materials and cotton on natural woven
fabrics for best results.
Always use the same thread on top
and bottom.
12/80
Medium weight fabrics-cotton, satin,
kettleclote, sailcloth, double knits,
lightweight woollens.
14/90
Medium weight fabrics-cotton duck,
woolen, heavier knits, terrycloth, denims.
16/100
Heavyweight fabrics-canvas, woolens,
outdoor tent and quilted fabrics, denims,
upholstery material (light to medium).
18/110
Heavy woollens, overcoat fabrics,
upholstery fabrics, some leathers
and vinyls.
Heavy duty thread, carpet thread.
(Use heavy foot pressurelarge numbers.)
NEEDLE, FABRIC SELECTION
Needles
Explanation
Type of fabric
15 x 1/ 130/
705H (SUK)
HA x 1
15 x 1
15 x 1/
130/ 705H
130PCL/
705H-LR/LL
Standard sharp needles.
Sizes range thin to large. 9 (65) to 18 (110)
Leather needles. 12 (80) to 18 (110)
Full ball point needle 9 (65) to 18 (110)
Semi-ball point needle, scarfed.
9 (65) to 18 (110)
Natural and synthetic woven fabrics,
polyester blends. Knits-polyesters,
interlocks, tricot, single and double knits.
Can be used instead of 15x1 for sewing
all fabrics.
Leather, vinyl, upholstery. (Leaves smaller
hole than standard large needle.)
Sweater knits, Lycra, swimsuit fabric, elastic.
Natural woven fabrics-wool, cotton, silk,
etc. Qiana. Not recommended for double
knits.
Note:
- Twin needles can be purchased for utility and decorative work.
- European needles show sizes 65, 70, 80 etc. American and Japanese needles show size 9, 11, 12
etc.
- Replace needle often (approximately every other garment ) and / or at first thread breakage or
skipped stitches.
Important:
The thread is chosen according to use. For a perfect sewing result, thread and fabric quality play an
important role. It is recommended to use quality brands.
Care must be taken when choosing needle and thread. The correct needle size depends on the
selected thread and fabric. The fabric weight and type determine the thread weight, needle size and
point form.
Important Sewing Information
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