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BERNINA

27

B E R N I N A   O V E R L O C K E R   W O R K B O O K 

For this exercise, the overlocker will be threaded for a 
narrow 3-thread flatlock stitch using the right needle and 
thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on 
the overlocker. 

Note: If following the order of activities in this Mastery 
book, the right needle was inserted and threaded, 
and the left needle and thread was removed in the 
previous exercise. If so, you will skip Steps 2 and 3. 

 
1. 

Select Stitch #6 and follow the steps in Guided Mode 
or make the noted manual settings in Expert Mode. 

2. 

Using the small screwdriver and needle holder tool, 
loosen the right needle screw and insert the right 
needle. Tighten the needle set screw. Thread the 
needle.

3. 

Remove the left needle thread. Loosen the left needle 
set screw and remove the left needle. 

4. 

Fold the fabric in half, wrong sides together, to 5” x 
10”. 

5. 

Place the fold under the presser foot. Guide the fabric 
halfway between the left needle and the right edge of 
the stitch finger. This method allows the fabric to lay 
totally flat under the stitches.

Optionally, you may choose to trim the folded edge 
which will allow one fabric to lay on top of the other. 
This is the preferred method if using the flatlock stitch 
as a seam.

6. 

Slowly sew the fabric. The looper threads will extend 
beyond the fabric on the right side of fold. 

7. 

Gently pull the fabric flat.

 

3-THREAD FLATLOCK - NARROW

Decorative Thread Tip:

  A heavy thread such as YLI Jeans 

Stitch or Pearl Crown Rayon can be used in the looper for a 
more decorative look. When working with heavy decorative 
threads, loosen the  upper looper tension and lengthen the 
stitch length as needed for the desired look. 

Firm fabric, 10" x 10"

80/12 ELX705

3 Spools Serger Thread (G, B, R)

3-Thread Flatlock Stitch (narrow) Stitch #6

C 11

Summary of Contents for L 890

Page 1: ...anted to copy and distribute in original form only Content may not be altered or used in any other form or under any other branding For BERNINA Overlocker L 890 WORKBOOK 1 BASIC SERGER USE OVERLOCKER...

Page 2: ...ENSIONS 16 TENSION SETTINGS RIGHT NEEDLE THREAD TENSIONS 17 TENSION SETTINGS LEFT NEEDLE THREAD TENSIONS 18 STITCH LENGTH 19 CUTTING WIDTH 20 UNDERSTANDING DIFFERENTIAL FEED 21 DIFFERENTIAL FEED STRET...

Page 3: ...O R K B O O K TABLE OF CONTENTS The information in this workbook applies to the BERNINA Overlocker Machine model shown above L 890 OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES OUTSIDE CORNER 34 REFERENCE OVERLOCKER NEEDLES...

Page 4: ...overcasting at the same time so your project is finished faster and will produce neater and more professional results Even though the workings of the overlocker may appear be more complex than a sewin...

Page 5: ...of the needle which reduces the friction on the thread especially at high speeds Other needles can be used in these machines but tension adjustments may be required to achieve the desired stitch Refer...

Page 6: ...n will reset any changed setting back to the default settings by simply tapping the button Settings and Help Functions The Home Screen has four buttons that allow you to launch the Setup Program and H...

Page 7: ...red stitch The Creative Consultant will recommend the optimal stitch in combination with needle thread and presser foot based on the selections made Creative Consultant Breadcrumbs Learn to navigate w...

Page 8: ...tup Menu under the machine Settings icon Here you can set the language check firmware version recalibrate the touchscreen restore factory settings and launch a software update 1 Touch the Setup icon 2...

Page 9: ...o the Sewing Screen 1 Select stitches by touching the Stitch Selection tab 2 Select the stitch using the Search by Number or from Stitch Group Folder 3 Select the folder for the stitch group and all s...

Page 10: ...by selecting the icon This will walk you step by step through all the changes that need to be made for the stitch selected Tip The L 890 will remember the last stitch sewn and the prompts work from th...

Page 11: ...will start as recommended preset defaults for the stitch selected When adjusted they will be outlined in yellow There are two ways to adjust the thread tensions on the L 890 You can do this directly...

Page 12: ...Speed will open a screen with a Slider Control and Fine Adjustment icons Tip Remember the sewing speed can also be set in the machine Setup Screen From the Stitch View Screen only the top speed can be...

Page 13: ...iles and techniques used Always begin with test sewing the stitch If the stitch is not as desired then launch the Stitch Optimizer to troubleshoot the stitch Stitch Optimizer 1 Tap the Stitch Optimize...

Page 14: ...t setting along the folded edge trimming off the fold Stitch off the edge of the fabric and continue until the thread chain is long enough to be cut in the thread cutter at the side of the machine 6 8...

Page 15: ...c in half to 5 x 10 and sew the seam along the fold trimming off a slight amount 3 Look at the stitch You can see that when the tension is too tight the upper looper pulls the lower looper red thread...

Page 16: ...etting of 1 and sew the seam on the opposite side 2 Examine the stitch formation When it is too loose the lower looper red thread is pulled to the front 3 Label the sample Lower Looper Too Loose 4 Tou...

Page 17: ...Tension Too Tight 1 Now adjust the tension setting to the lowest setting of 1 and sew the seam on the opposite side 2 Examine the stitch formation Notice how you can now see the needle thread making l...

Page 18: ...to the lowest setting of 1 and sew the seam on the opposite side 2 Examine the stitch formation You will notice that on the back of the seam you will see the yellow thread being pulled by the loopers...

Page 19: ...stitch length to 2 mm and sew to the third mark 6 Adjust the stitch length to 1 mm and sew to the end 7 Mark the stitch length settings on the fabric sample 8 Touch clr to return stitch length to its...

Page 20: ...three equal sections along the folded edge 3 Adjust the Cutting Width knob to the widest setting 9 Sew to the first mark on the fabric stopping when the knife edge is on the mark 4 Reduce the cutting...

Page 21: ...you adjust differential feed you are in fact adjusting the rate at which the front feed dog moves Look at the diagram and the Differential Feed Dial and settings together When the differential feed i...

Page 22: ...Differential Feed setting to 1 5 sew along the folded edge of the second fabric halfway to the end 3 Adjust the differential feed setting to 2 and complete sewing the remainder of the fabric to the en...

Page 23: ...eed to be recorded here for saved stitches remember the machine does not do these things electronically so this will serve as a reminder for you in the future Navigate back to the manual settings in t...

Page 24: ...llow the steps in Guided Mode or make the noted manual settings in Expert Mode 2 Using the small screwdriver and needle holder tool remove the right needle and thread Tighten the needle set screw afte...

Page 25: ...eft needle and the right edge of the stitch finger This method allows the fabric to lay totally flat under the stitches Optionally you may choose to trim the folded edge which will allow one fabric to...

Page 26: ...this exercise 1 Select Stitch 4 and follow the steps in Guided Mode or make the noted manual settings in Expert Mode 2 Using the small screwdriver and needle holder tool loosen the right needle screw...

Page 27: ...d remove the left needle 4 Fold the fabric in half wrong sides together to 5 x 10 5 Place the fold under the presser foot Guide the fabric halfway between the left needle and the right edge of the sti...

Page 28: ...move the left needle 4 Disengage the stitch finger by placing the Rolled Hem Selection Lever in the R position 5 Start the machine and run a chain for several inches so that you have a thread tail to...

Page 29: ...l loosen the right needle screw and insert the right needle Tighten the needle set screw Thread the needle 3 Remove the left needle thread Loosen the left needle set screw and remove the left needle 4...

Page 30: ...looper 4 Fold the fabric in half to 5 x 10 Place the fold under the presser foot Guide the fabric halfway between the left needle and the right edge of the stitch finger This method allows the fabric...

Page 31: ...he Upper Looper Converter to the upper looper 3 Place the StitcH2O on top of the fabric and under the presser foot Guide the fabric so that a small amount of the fabric and StitcH2O is cut off 4 Slowl...

Page 32: ...6 Continue stitching At the end of the fabric sew just off the edge of the fabric Carefully pull the threads off the stitch finger by placing the Rolled Hem Selection Lever in the R position temporar...

Page 33: ...settings in Expert Mode 2 Cut an inside corner into the fabric 3 Snip into the corner about the width of the stitching See Image 1 4 Sew until the knife reaches the end of the cut 5 Use the handwheel...

Page 34: ...e sewing trim away the seam allowance for about 2 on each corner of the square 2 Beginning at one trimmed corner stitch trimming very slightly as you sew to the end of the fabric Take one stitch off t...

Page 35: ...ended to accommodate the usage of certain specialty needles stretch Microtex etc but keep in mind that adjustments to tensions may be required for a proper stitch formation Need to Know Always make su...

Page 36: ...on Thread such as YLI Woolly Nylon Maxi Lock Stretch or Wonderfil SoftLoc A very elastic thread with excellent coverage perfect for rolled edges and knit seams Topstitching Thread such as YLI Jeans St...

Page 37: ...S FOR OPTIONAL OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUE PAGES 32 THROUGH 34 QUANTITY SIZE FABRIC 3 10 x 10 Firm Fabric such as Heavy muslin High quality quilting cotton Medium weight denim 1 3 x 12 Lightweight Fabric FAB...

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