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Date Printed: 4/28/11
File: G:/pubdata/Manuals\english manuals\OM-KE/PE.pub
OM KE/PE 1006
Version 1.11 Revised: DApril 2011
Maintenance
GASKET INSPECTION
Inspect the gasket for physical deterioration, missing sections or obvious leakage-. The stove front should make a
groove in the gasket material - one side of the groove (toward the inside) will often be dark or black, and the other side
(toward the outside) should be light or white. Dark smudges on the outside of the groove may indicate a smoke leak. If
the groove is very shallow or missing, or if there is a heavy ash or creosote deposit along the bottom edge of the gasket,
it may need to be replaced. Frayed or broken gasket material, or a gasket that is hard and unyielding, will also indicate
need for replacement. Any time a piece of gasket is missing, or is broken anywhere, the entire gasket must be replaced.
To check the gasket further, insert a piece of paper (a dollar bill will work) into the door opening and close and latch the
door. Obvious resistance should be felt when pulling the paper out. Repeat this check several times around the
perimeter of the door.
Instructions for tightening the gasket can be found on page 13.
GASKET REPLACEMENT
1.
If the door gasket is to be replaced, be sure you have some 7/8” fiber glass gasket material, ready to re-install. See
your Blaze King dealer.
2.
Be sure the fire is out and the stove has cooled down. The door does not have to be removed from the stove.
3.
With a pair of pliers, pull the old door gasket out of the channel and dispose of it.
4.
Thoroughly clean out the channel so the new silicone adhesive will adhere and the gasket will fit smoothly
5.
Run a small bead of a high temperature silicone adhesive (such as G.E. Silicone Sealer, or the equivalent) along the
center of the channel. DO NOT USE HOUSEHOLD SILICONE CAULKING. High temperature silicone may be
obtained from most auto parts stores.
6.
Start the new gasket in the lower right corner. Do not stretch or cut the gasket. Distribute the gasket evenly
7.
around the frame.
8.
Close the Loading Door and allow the adhesive to dry.
9.
Door adjustment: the door seal is adjusted by turning the latch catch on the stove in or out. NOTE THERE IS A
LOCK NUT ON THE LATCH THREAD ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE STOVE, LOOSEN THE LOCK NUT FIRST and
then thread the latch catch in or out to properly adjust the door seal. The gasket should be just tight enough to test
ok as in step 10, do not over tighten the latch which makes the door difficult to latch.
10. Check the fit of the door gasket. Insert a narrow strip of paper into the door opening and close and latch the door.
Obvious resistance should be felt when pulling the paper out. Repeat this check several times around the perimeter
of the door.
CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR, TESTING (Conduct test with fans off)
Test the catalyst in your Blaze King as follows:
Build a fire using the same technique (paper, kindling, logs) you have used in the past. Leave the thermostat knob
on a medium (2) setting. When the fire is well established (within one to three hours) turn the thermostat knob to 1.5
or 1.75. A properly operating catalyst will remain active, and the catalyst thermometer will remain in the "active"
zone until the wood load is mostly consumed. A "tired" or "dead" catalyst will, with the thermostat on 1.75 or lower,
go out completely, and the thermometer needle will fall into the "inactive" zone. Repeat this procedure several times
over several days. (Remember that the catalyst thermometer has a built-in lag of 4-8 minutes.) If, after several test
burns, the thermometer will not indicate an active" catalyst, it may require cleaning or replacement. It is also
possible that the thermometer, itself, may not be reading accurately. Before condemning the catalyst, read
"Thermometer", on page 38.
CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR, CLEANING
Under certain conditions, ash particles may become attached to the face of the catalyst. These may be seen while the
catalyst is in the glowing stage, or when the fire is out. Any deposit on the visible face of the catalyst should be removed.
Wait until the fire is out and the stove is cold. (Hot ash in a vacuum cleaner bag will burn.)
Brushing the catalyst with a soft bristle paint brush will remove some deposits. Passing a plastic vacuum cleaner wand
or brush near the face of the catalyst will remove most deposits. Never scrape the catalyst with any hard tool or brush.
Some stove owners have run pipe cleaner through every individual cell of the catalyst. This is not needed, and may
actually do more harm than good. Limit cleaning to the face of the catalyst.
For more thorough cleaning see page 46-48 of this manual.
Note
: Never remove a combustor without approved combustor gasket in hand as original gasket will fall apart when
removed from stove.
TIP:
A nice hot fire will usually prove to be the best method of cleaning the combustor of deposits.
