Brother XL 5500 - 42 Stitch Sewing Machine, Operation Manual

Page 1: ...Operation Manual ...

Page 2: ...ngs of the machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint dust and loose cloth 5 Never drop or insert any object into any opening 6 Do not use outdoors 7 Do not operate where aerosol spray products are being used or where oxygen is being administered 8 To disconnect the machine set the main switch to the position which represents off and then remove the plug from the outlet 9 Do no...

Page 3: ...n the event that the plug fuse is replaced use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362 i e carrying the mark rated as marked on the plug Always replace the fuse cover Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted WARNING DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE LETTER E OR BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLORED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW The wires in this main lead are colored in ...

Page 4: ... models equipped with a needle threader 19 Quick Thread Setting System FAST START BOBBIN models equipped with a quick thread setting system 20 Drawing up the lower thread 21 Sewing with a Twin Needle 21 Tension of the Thread 22 CHART OF SEWING FABRICS NEEDLES AND THREAD COMBINATIONS 24 Please Read Before Sewing 25 Straight Stitching 25 Zigzag Stitching 26 Blind Hem Stitching 27 Shell Tuck Stitchin...

Page 5: ...age 13 This controls the length of the stitches 0 Reverse sewing lever page 14 You can push this to stitch in the reverse direction A Buttonhole fine adjustment screw page 33 B Buttonhole lever 1 Step automatic buttonhole page 30 C Needle threader page 19 This is only available on certain models D Handle E Balance wheel Turn toward you counterclockwise to raise and lower the needle F Main power se...

Page 6: ...oot 138135 122 Foot controller XC7359 021 110 120V areas XC7438 021 220 240V areas XC7456 021 U K XC7455 021 Australia New Zealand The above accessories are stored in the accessory bag inside the extension table These accessories have been designed to help you carry out most sewing tasks 2 X59370 021 8 130920 021 3 X59375 121 4 129583 001 5 X57521 001 6 SA156 For U S A SFB XA5539 151 For other cou...

Page 7: ... multi plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them Fire or electric shock may result Do not touch the plug with wet hands Electric shock may result When unplugging the machine always turn off the main power first Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet Pulling on the cord may damage the cord or lead to fire or electric shock Do not allow the power cord to be cut damaged ...

Page 8: ...t controller down lightly the machine will run at a low speed When you press harder the machine s speed will increase When you take your foot off the foot controller the machine will stop You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use Note For U S A only Foot Controller Model KD 1902 This foot controller can be used with Models XL 5500 XL 5600 XL ...

Page 9: ...hange the presser foot depending on what you want to sew and how Snap On Type 1 Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the balance wheel toward you counterclockwise and raise the presser foot lever 2 Release the foot by raising the lever at the back of the holder assembly Make sure to push in the needle until it touches the stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with a sc...

Page 10: ...ch areas To change your machine to the free arm style lift out the extension table attachment 1 Lift the bottom of the extension table up toward you 2 Pull the extension table out to remove it 1 Extension table Steadying the Machine When the machine is placed on an uneven surface turn the rubber cushion on the front right hand side of the base plate to adjust it until the machine is stable If the ...

Page 11: ...cannot be turned directly from the last stitch to the first one or from the first stitch to the last one To select the first stitch when the last one is displayed or to select the last stitch when the first one is displayed turn the pattern selection dial in the opposite direction until the desired stitch is displayed 21 Stitches 17 Stitches 15 Stitches 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 ...

Page 12: ... 1 16 27 8 SCALLOP STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 1 5 1 64 1 16 28 9 DOUBLE ACTION STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 3 1 64 1 8 29 10 BRIDGING STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 3 1 64 1 8 11 RAMPART STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 3 1 64 1 8 12 TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH 0 5 0 3 16 Changes needle position Fixed 2 5 3 32 25 13 TRIPLE ZIGZAG STRETCH STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 Fixed 2 5 3 32 30 14 STRETCH OVERLOCK STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 Fixed 2 5 3 32 29 15 ELASTIC...

Page 13: ...5 1 8 3 16 3 1 64 1 8 29 10 TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH 0 5 0 3 16 Changes needle position Fixed 2 5 3 32 25 11 TRIPLE ZIGZAG STRETCH STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 Fixed 2 5 3 32 30 12 STRETCH OVERLOCK STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 Fixed 2 5 3 32 29 13 ELASTIC OVERLOCK STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 Fixed 2 5 3 32 29 14 FEATHER STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 Fixed 2 5 3 32 29 15 ARROWHEAD STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 Fixed 2 5 3 32 29 16 DECORATIVE STIT...

Page 14: ...es the selected pattern to a stretch stitch Adjusting the stretch stitching The machine is adjusted at the factory so that the stretch stitching can be sewn with the stitch length dial set to standard position 5 SHELL TUCK STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 3 1 64 1 8 27 6 ELASTIC STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 2 5 1 64 3 32 28 7 DOUBLE ACTION STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 3 1 64 1 8 29 8 BLIND HEM STITCH 3 5 1 8 3 16 2 1 64 1 16 27...

Page 15: ...nged from left to right When the Straight or Triple Stretch Stitches are selected the needle position can be changed by adjusting the stitch width dial Reverse Sewing Lever You can use reverse sewing for backtacking and reinforcing seams To sew in reverse push the reverse sewing lever in as far as possible and hold it in that position while you lightly push the foot controller To sew forward relea...

Page 16: ... foot controller Note The machine stops automatically when the bobbin is full 6 After the machine stops cut the thread slide the shaft to the left and then remove the bobbin Note The needle bar does not move after the bobbin winding shaft is slid to the right Immediately after winding the bobbin it is normal to hear the sound of the clutch engaging when beginning to sew or turning the balance whee...

Page 17: ...and cause the needle to break Setting the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen and may break the needle 1 Wound evenly 2 Wound poorly CAUTION CAUTION 1 2 Setting the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen breaking the needle and resulting in injury 1 Wound evenly 2 Wound poorly The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine If bobbins from older ...

Page 18: ...the bobbin case finger fits into the notch at the top of the race 1 Bobbin case finger 2 Notch Note If the bobbin case is not properly placed back into the machine it will fall out from the shuttle immediately after you start sewing Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the correct direction If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction it may cause the thread tension to be incorrec...

Page 19: ...es 1 Spool pin 2 Thread guide 3 Tension discs 4 Thread take up lever 4 While holding the thread pull it between the tension discs 5 Guide the thread to the back of the thread take up lever and around to the left Bring the thread through the slit by pulling it toward you and into the eyelet 1 Thread take up lever 2 4 1 3 Make sure you thread the machine properly otherwise the thread could tangle an...

Page 20: ...ckwise until the bottom of the needle holder aligns with the bottom of the needle threading hook holder 1 Needle holder 2 Needle threader lever 3 Hook holder 4 Align Note When you use the needle threader make sure to align the bottom of the needle holder with the bottom of the holder for the needle threading hook before lowering the needle threader lever otherwise the hook may be damaged 3 While l...

Page 21: ...the thread through the slit in the cover 1 Shuttle cover 2 Slit 3 Slide the thread down to the bottom of the slit pull it up and then cut it on the cutter to complete the lower threading 4 Pull out about 15 cm 6 of the upper thread as usual and then pull it between the toes of the presser foot and straight toward the back of the machine 5 Start sewing as usual It is not necessary to draw up the bo...

Page 22: ...ads You can use the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches Attaching the Twin Needle Attach the twin needle in the same way as a single needle see page 7 The flat side of the needle should face toward the back and the rounded side should face toward you Attaching the Extra Spool Pin Put the extra vertical spool pin in the hole on the top right hand side of the ...

Page 23: ... thread tension setting is 5 Possible Problems If the Tension Is Wrong Upper tension is too tight Locks will appear on the surface of the fabric Upper tension control dial Decrease the tension by turning the dial to a lower number 1 Reverse 2 Surface Upper tension is too loose Locks appear on the reverse side of the fabric Upper tension control dial Increase the tension by turning the dial to a hi...

Page 24: ...23 Correct tension Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric 1 Reverse 2 Surface 2 1 2 1 ...

Page 25: ...fabrics Lawn Batiste Cotton 60 80 75 11 Georgette Synthetic mercerized Challis Satin Silk 50 80 Heavy weight fabrics Denim Cotton 30 50 90 14 100 16 Corduroy Synthetic mercerized 50 Tweed Silk Stretch fabrics Jersey Thread for knits 50 60 Ball point needle golden colored 75 11 90 14 Tricot For top stitching Synthetic mercerized 30 90 14 100 16 Silk Make sure you follow the needle thread and fabric...

Page 26: ...h Changing Sewing Direction 1 With the needle still in the fabric stop the machine at the point where you want to change the sewing direction To avoid being injured watch the needle carefully while you are using the machine Keep your hands away from moving parts Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing otherwise the needle may be damaged and you may be injured Do not use bent or broken need...

Page 27: ... the next seam pull about 10 cm 4 of thread through the toes of the presser foot toward the back of the machine Top Stitching and Stretch Materials You can use the Straight Stitch for top stitching and sewing lightweight fabrics You can use Triple Stretch Stitch for sewing stretch fabrics Zigzag Stitching Zigzag Stitch Turn the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag Stitch and then select the stitch...

Page 28: ...as shown in fig D 1 Right side of fabric 2 Wrong side of fabric Note The Stretch Blind Hem Stitch is useful for stretch fabrics Shell Tuck Stitching The Shell Tuck Stitch can be used to sew a picot lace like edge on lightweight fabric 1 Set the pattern selection dial to the Shell Tuck Stitch 2 Adjust the thread tension so that it is tighter than normal 3 Place the fabric under the presser foot so ...

Page 29: ...s very effective when sewing knitted fabrics If you are using nylon thread the stitch will not be visible 1 Put the edge of the two pieces of fabric together and center them under the presser foot 2 Sew them together using the Elastic Stitch Make sure you keep the two fabric edges close together Scallop Stitching This machine automatically produces a Scallop Stitch for decorative edging 1 Set the ...

Page 30: ... allows the right zigzag side of the stitch to overlock the cut edge of the fabric 3 If the seam allowance is wider than the stitch pattern trim away any excess fabric after stitching A finished Elastic Overlock Stitch is shown in the diagram below Feather Stitching Use the Feather Stitch as a decorative top stitch when hemming blankets tablecloths or draperies or when embroidering 1 Set the patte...

Page 31: ... the underside of the fabric Making a buttonhole is a simple process that provides reliable results Making a Buttonhole 1 Using tailor s chalk mark the position and length of the buttonhole on the fabric 2 Attach the buttonhole foot and set the pattern selection dial to 3 You need to sew the front bar tack first Lower the presser foot to align the marks on the foot with the mark on the fabric 4 Op...

Page 32: ...there 3 Lower the presser foot and start sewing Set the stitch width to match the diameter of the gimp thread 4 Once sewing is completed gently pull the gimp thread to remove any slack and then trim off the excess Making a Buttonhole 4 Step Buttonhole Memo We recommend that you practice making a buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric before you try it on the actual garment When making buttonholes o...

Page 33: ...and causing injuries Step Sewn section Pattern Step 1 Front bar tack 1 Set the pattern selection dial to a 2 Lower the presser foot and sew 5 to 6 stitches 3 Stop the machine when the needle is at the left side of the stitches and then raise the needle from the material Step 2 Left side 1 Turn the pattern selection dial to b 2 Sew the predetermined length of the tailor s chalk line 3 Stop the mach...

Page 34: ...ttonhole fine adjustment screw with a large screwdriver in the direction If the left side is too fine turn the buttonhole fine adjustment screw with a large screwdriver in the direction This adjustment ensures both sides of the buttonhole are the same 1 Stitch length dial 2 Buttonhole fine adjustment screw 3 Left side 4 In this case Sewing Buttons 1 Measure the distance between the holes and set t...

Page 35: ...Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper 1 Set the pattern selection dial to the Straight Stitch center needle position 2 5 mm 3 32 2 Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the shank 3 Fold the edge of the material 2 cm 3 4 and place the zipper under the folded section 4 Use the stitch width dial to adjust the needle position Lower the nee...

Page 36: ... the darning plate on the needle plate On a machine equipped with a drop feed lever lower the feed dogs by setting the drop feed lever to the up position 2 Set the pattern selection dial to the Straight Stitch 3 Put the section you want to darn under the presser foot together with a piece of fabric for reinforcement 4 Remove the presser foot and presser foot holder and then lower the presser foot ...

Page 37: ...lection dial to the Zigzag Stitch 3 Draw the lettering for monogramming or design for embroidering on the surface of the fabric 4 Stretch the fabric between embroidery hoops as firmly as possible with the underside of the fabric on the bottom of the inside hoop 5 Put the work under the needle with the presser foot holder assembly removed 6 Pull the lower thread up through the work at the starting ...

Page 38: ...the design by moving the embroidery hoop 2 Fill in the design alternating from the outline of the design to the inside and from the inside to the edge of the outline until the design is completely filled in Keep the stitching close together Memo You can make long stitches by moving the embroidery hoop rapidly and short stitches by moving it slowly 3 Secure with a few straight stitches at the end o...

Page 39: ...me type and rated 15 W 4 Replace the sewing light bulb 1 Bulb 2 Loosen 3 Tighten 5 Reattach the face plate and fasten the screw Oiling 1 Remove the power supply plug from the outlet 2 Remove the needle plate and the face plate and then put 2 to 3 drops of oil at each point indicated by the arrows 3 Operate the machine at a fast speed for a short time without thread installed 4 Be sure to wipe any ...

Page 40: ...Driver 5 Race body Note When the needle is lowered the shuttle hook cannot be removed Cleaning the Shuttle Race 1 Remove any accumulated lint and thread from the retaining ring hook driver and race body with a brush 2 Wipe lint from the shuttle race using a cloth dampened with machine oil 3 Clean the shuttle hook as described in step 2 4 When reinstalling the removed parts hold the retaining ring ...

Page 41: ... rectly inserted Thread tension is incorrect Thread tension is too tight Bobbin is not threaded properly in the shuttle hook Upper thread is tangled Inferior needle is used Threading is not correct The combination of needle size thread size fabric is incorrect Lower thread tension is too tight Upper thread tension is too tight Wrong needle is used Spool of thread is not correctly installed Lint is...

Page 42: ...abric is incorrect Inferior needle is used Main power switch is turned off Insufficient oiling The combination of needle size thread size fabric is incorrect Foot controller is not used correctly Inferior needle is used Fabric is pulled excessively Let the feed dogs move the fabric Do not pull the fabric Thread is tangled CONTACT YOUR LOCAL SERVICE CENTER No Feed dogs are lowered The bobbin windin...

Page 43: ...be repaired or wish to move the machine If you do not pack it properly or do not use the right packing material the machine could be damaged Please follow the diagram below for repacking This packing material is designed to prevent damage Save this packing material if you need to move the machine or take or send this machine to be repaired IMPORTANT ...

Page 44: ...Feed Lever 14 E Elastic Overlock Stitch 11 12 13 29 Elastic Stitch 11 12 13 28 Embroidering 36 F Feather Stitch 11 12 13 29 Feed Dogs Cleaning 39 Finishing Sewing 26 Foot Controller 7 Foot Controller Connecting 6 Foot Controller Operating 7 Free arm Sewing 9 Free arm Style 9 G Gathering 35 H Hole for Extra Spool Pin 21 I Inserting the Needle 7 L Leaf Stitch 11 12 13 Legs Stitch 11 Lower Threading ...

Page 45: ... Stitch 11 12 25 34 35 Stretch Blind Hem Stitch 11 12 27 Stretch Overlock Stitch 11 12 13 29 Stretch Stitching 13 T Tension of the Thread 22 Thread Tension 22 Threading Bobbin 15 Threading Needle 19 Topstitching 26 Tree Stitch 11 Triple Stretch Stitch 11 12 13 25 Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitch 11 12 13 30 Twin Needle Sewing 21 U Upper Tention Control Dial 22 Upper Threading 18 Using the Needle Threa...

Page 46: ...English 885 458 XC7363 021 Printed in China ...