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STEP 2: Establish a Starting Point 

(All Installation Methods)

•  Installation parallel to the longest wall is recommended for best visual effects, however, the floor should be 

installed perpendicular to the flooring joists unless the subfloor has been reinforced to reduce subfloor sagging. 

•  When possible, always begin the layout or installation from the straightest wall, generally an outside wall.
•  In at least two places, at least 18˝ (46 cm) from the corner, measure out equal distance from the starting 

wall and snap a chalk line. The measurement must be the sum of the width of the flooring plus an additional 

3/8˝ (9.5 mm) to allow for 1/4˝ (6 mm) expansion space and the width of the tongue. Allow 1/2˝ (13 mm) 

expansion when installing floating floors. Continue to Step 3; Staple, Glue or Floating.

STEP 3: Installing First & Second Rows  

(Mechanically Fastened/Staple-Down Installations)
•  Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows. For random and alternate width 

products, use the widest plank for the first row. Align tongue of first row on chalk line. The groove should 

be facing the starting wall. Pre-drill 1/2˝ (13 mm) from back (groove) edge, 1˝-2˝ (2.5-5 cm) from each end, 

and at 6˝ (15 cm) intervals when possible. Fasten using 4 or 6d finishing nails or 1˝ (2.5 cm) pneumatic 

finish nails/brads. Countersink the nails.

•  Pre-drill and blind-nail at a 45° angle through the tongue of the first row every 1˝-2˝ (2.5-5 cm) from the 

ends and spaced in 3˝-4˝ (7.6-10 cm) intervals. Countersink nails to ensure flush engagement of groove 

with the following row(s). Continue blind nailing using this method with following rows until stapler can 

be used. Alternatively use a pneumatic finish nailer and install nails/brads at the same intervals with a 

minimum length of 1˝ (2.5 cm).

•  End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered a minimum of 4˝-6˝ (10-15 cm) when possible, to ensure 

a more favorable overall appearance.

STEP 4: Installing the Floor 

(Mechanically Fastened/Staple-Down Installations)
•  Always use the recommended stapler for the specific product being installed (see “Installation Applications”). 

Use a minimum 1˝ (2.5 cm) staple recommended by the stapler manufacturer, 1˝-2˝ (2.5-5 cm) from the ends 

spaced at 3˝-4˝ (8-10 cm) intervals. Continue to Step 5. 

•  Set compressor at 70 PSI. If tongue damage occurs, lower air pressure.
•  Fasten several sacrificial boards to the floor. At least two boards, stapled side by side, must be used to 

indicate proper machine adjustments. 

•  Check for surface damage, air pressure setting, tongue damage, edge blistering, etc. before proceeding. 

Make all adjustments and corrections before installation begins. Once proper adjustments have been made, 

remove and destroy the boards.

•  Install the remainder of the floor working from several cartons.
•  The last 1-2 rows will need to be face-nailed when clearance does not permit blind nailing with a stapler or 

a brad nailer. Pre-drill and face-nail or pneumatically nail on the tongue side, following the nailing pattern 

used for the first row.

•  Hold trowel at a minimum 45° angle firmly against the subfloor to obtain a 40-60 ft.

2

 (4-5.5 m

2

) per gallon 

spread rate. The trowel will leave ridges of adhesive and very little adhesive between the ridges. This will 

allow you to still see the chalk lines between the ridges and provide the recommended spread rate. 

•  For additional application instructions, follow the recommendations on the adhesive container. 
•  Proper ventilation within the room must be provided. An electric fan is helpful. 
•  Rolling is not required, but if desired, do not do so until the adhesive has cured for two hours.
NOTE: DO NOT INSTALL FLOORING USING RUBBER MALLETS. STRIKING THE SURFACE WITH A RUBBER 

MALLET MAY “BURN” THE FINISH CAUSING IRREPAIRABLE DAMAGE. 

STEP 3: Spread the Adhesive 

(Glue-Down Installations)

•  Spread sufficient amounts of the recommended adhesive with the recommended trowel in an area that can 

be covered in 60 minutes (see adhesive information).

•  If necessary, nail a sacrificial row with 1˝ (2.5 cm) nails on the dry side of your chalk line to help hold the 

first row in place.

NOTE: Avoid installing on the surface of the flooring. If necessary, distribute weight using a kneeler board.

STEP 4: Installing the Floor 

(Glue-Down Installations) 

•  Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows. For random and alternate width 

products, use the widest plank for the first row. The first row of planks should be installed with the edge of 

the groove lined up on the chalk line. The tongue should be facing the starting wall. The first row must be 

aligned and seated in the adhesive, as all additional rows will be pushed back to this original row. Remove 

tongue to allow for expansion space, if necessary, on the row adjoining the wall. Continue to Step 5.

•  When installing products wider than 3-1/4˝ (8 cm), apply a bead of recommended wood glue to all of the 

end grooves prior to installing into the adhesive.

•  When installing pieces, engage the end-joint first, as close to the side (long) tongue and groove as 

possible, then slide together tightly to engage the side (long) joint tongue and groove. To avoid adhesive 

bleed-through and memory pull-back, avoid sliding pieces through the adhesive as much as possible when 

placing them in position.

•  During the installation occasionally remove a piece of flooring from the subfloor and inspect the back for 

proper adhesive transfer. Adequate adhesive transfer is necessary to ensure sufficient holding strength.

•  If the adhesive skins over and fails to transfer, remove and spread new adhesive to achieve proper bonding.
NOTE: Clean adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently, using the recommended adhesive cleaner. 

Urethane adhesives become extremely difficult to remove when cured. Do not use 3M Scotch-Blue™ 2080 

Tape before adhesive is removed from the surface. Use clean towels, changed frequently, to prevent haze and 

adhesive residue.
•  Check for a tight fit between all edges and ends of each plank. End-joints of adjacent rows should be 

staggered 4˝-6˝ (10-15 cm) when possible, to ensure a more favorable overall appearance.

•  It may be necessary to align the product with a cut-off piece of scrap as shown. To eliminate minor shifting 

or gapping of product during installation, use 3M Scotch-Blue™ 2080 Tape to hold the planks together. 

After installation is complete, remove all of the 3M Scotch-Blue™ 2080 Tape from the surface of the newly 

installed flooring. Do not let the tape remain on the flooring longer than 24 hours. Avoid the use of masking 

or duct tape, which leaves an adhesive residue and may damage the finish.

•  If necessary, use weights to flatten boards with bows until adhesive cures, in order to prevent hollow spots. 

Boards that cannot be flattened should be cut in length to reduce the bow, or not used. 

General Information for Floating Floors

•  Plan the floor layout (in width) to avoid having to rip the last row narrower than 1˝ (2.5 cm). This may 

require ripping the first row to assure the last row is at least the minimum width. Allow 1/2˝ (13 mm) 

expansion around all vertical obstructions

STEP 3: Installing the Underlayment 

(Floating Installations Only)

•  Install the underlayment in the same direction the hardwood flooring is to be installed. 
•  Extend the underlayment a few inches up the wall.
•  Trim excess prior to installing trim or moldings.
•  The floating floor underlayment already has double-sided tape for ease of taping the precut overlapping 

seams. If a non-adhesive underlayment is used, tape all seams with the included tape. 

STEP 4: Installing the Floor 

(Floating Installations Only)

•  The first row can be installed using one of two methods after the layout has been completed (Step 2). Allow 

1/2˝ (13 mm) expansion. 

•  Sacrificial board: If the wall is not straight, scribe the first board as necessary to maintain alignment 

with the chalk line. Install a sacrificial board (with a straight edge) using the appropriate fasteners for the 

subfloor. If a board is used for the starter row make certain the groove faces the wall.

•  Wedges: Align the first row with the wall using wedges to maintain a 1/2˝ (13 mm) expansion in place and 

to stabilize the product. If the wall is not straight, scribe the first board as necessary to maintain alignment 

with the chalk line.

•  Select the first board. All installations should begin with the groove side against the wall using the longest 

boards available. Apply a continuous 1/8˝ (3 mm) glue bead to the inside bottom of the groove on the end 

of the board. Do not apply glue to the groove side at this time. Products with the end tongue on the left 

should be installed right to left, opposite tongues should be left to right. If a sacrificial board was used DO 

NOT glue the first row to it. 

•  Complete the first row. Cut the last board allowing for 1/2˝ (13 mm) clearance between the wall and the 

floor. (Use the remaining end of the cut board as a starter board for any row following row three). Install 

a wedge on the end of the board between the hardwood flooring and the wall, allowing 1/2˝ (13 mm) 

expansion space. Avoid installation of any boards shorter than 16˝ (40.6 cm) in the first four rows. 

•  Use a pull bar to pull the last board into place from the opposite end. Install wedges into the gap and tighten 
•  If any glue gets on the surface of the flooring, wipe off immediately with a clean damp cloth.
•  Cut or use a shorter board for the first board of the second row. Start the second row by applying a 1/8˝ (3 mm) 

bead along the inside bottom of the end and side groove of the new board. Install the first board of row two. 

Apply a bead of glue to the inside bottom of the end and side groove of the next board and install. When installing 

boards together, use a tapping block against the tongue, not the groove. Tap the boards into place by tapping with 

a hammer on the tapping block. DO NOT tap on the edge directly with the hammer. Complete the second through 

fourth rows using this technique. Insert wedges on the ends, as necessary, to restrain the movement of the floor. 

•  In the remaining rows, stagger joints 4˝-6˝ (10-15 cm) apart. Install the rest of the floor. Be sure all joints 

are tight. Use spacers on the long and butt walls. Use a tapping bar to tighten the joints from the ends.

STEP 5: Complete the Installation 

(All Installation Methods)

•  Remove all tape and clean the floor with the recommended hardwood flooring cleaner.
•  Trim all underlayment (floating only) and install or re-install any transition pieces, reducer strips, 

T-moldings, thresholds, bases and/or quarter round moldings that may be needed. Nail moldings into the 

wall, not the floor. 

•  Inspect the floor, filling all minor gaps with the appropriate blended filler.
•  If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard. Do not cover with plastic.

INSTALLERS – ADVISE YOUR CUSTOMER OF THE FOLLOWING
Seasons: Heating and Non-heating 

Recognizing that hardwood floor dimensions will be slightly affected by varying levels of humidity within your 

building, care should be taken to control humidity levels within the 35-55% range. To protect your investment 

and to assure that your floors provide lasting satisfaction, we have provided our recommendations below.
•  Heating Season (Dry): A humidifier is recommended to prevent excessive shrinkage in hardwood floors 

due to low humidity levels. Wood stoves and electric heat tend to create very dry conditions.

•  Non-Heating Season (Humid, Wet): Proper humidity levels can be maintained by use of an air conditioner, 

dehumidifier, or by turning on your heating system periodically during the summer months. Avoid 

excessive exposure to water from tracking during periods of inclement weather. Do not obstruct in any way 

the expansion joint around the perimeter of your floor.

NOTE: Final inspection by the end-user should occur from a standing position.

2

INFORMATION D’ORDRE GÉNÉRAL

Responsabilité du propriétaire/poseur

Les beaux planchers de bois durs sont des produits naturels et sont donc imparfaits. Ils sont fabriqués 

conformément aux normes établies dans l’industrie, autorisant une tolérance aux défauts qui ne doit pas 

dépasser 5 %. Il peut s’agir d’un défaut de fabrication ou d’un défaut naturel. Lors de la commande du 

revêtement de sol, vous devez ajouter 5 % à la surface réelle nécessaire pour tenir compte des coupes et des 

défauts (10 % pour la pose en diagonale).
•  Le propriétaire/poseur assume toutes les responsabilités relatives à l’inspection finale de la qualité 

du produit. Une inspection de tout le revêtement de sol devrait être exécutée avant la pose. Examinez 

minutieusement la couleur, la finition et la qualité du revêtement de sol avant de le poser. Si le produit n’est 

pas acceptable, ne le posez pas et contactez immédiatement le vendeur.

•  Avant de poser tout revêtement de sol en bois dur, le propriétaire/poseur doit s’assurer que le site du 

chantier et les sous-planchers visés par la pose sont conformes à toutes les normes applicables ou 

les dépassent. Les recommandations des industries de la construction et des matériaux doivent être 

observées. Selon ces recommandations, la construction et le plancher brut doivent être propres, secs, 

structurellement sains et plats. Le fabricant n’assume aucune responsabilité quant aux défauts de la pose 

liés à des défaillances environnementales du plancher brut et des supports ou du lieu de travail.

Summary of Contents for 6 mm

Page 1: ... incremental control strategy that brings the floor through temperature changes gradually which may include an external thermostat Turn off heat and let subfloor cool down to room temperature 3 4 hours prior to starting the job BEFORE installation begins ascertain that the heating system is designed and controlled for wood flooring and that the circuit does not include other floor covering types F...

Page 2: ...due and may damage the finish If necessary use weights to flatten boards with bows until adhesive cures in order to prevent hollow spots Boards that cannot be flattened should be cut in length to reduce the bow or not used General Information for Floating Floors Plan the floor layout in width to avoid having to rip the last row narrower than 1 2 5 cm This may require ripping the first row to assur...

Page 3: ...ois recommandée pour les revêtement de sol dépassants 9 5 cm 3 1 4 po de largeur Suppléments pour les revêtements de sol flottants Sous couche recommandée Barre de tirage Bloc de frappe Colle à bois recommandée ÉTAPE 1 Préparation des entrées de porte et des murs toutes les méthodes de pose Raccourcissez les montants et les chambranles de porte Retirez les plinthes les quarts de rond ou les seuils...

Page 4: ...dilatation Planche à sacrifier Si le mur n est pas droit chantournez la première planche au besoin afin de maintenir l alignement avec la ligne de craie Posez une planche à sacrifier dont le bord est droit en utilisant les fixations appropriées au support Si une planche est utilisée pour la rangée de départ assurez vous que la rainure fait face au mur Cale clavettes Alignez la première rangée avec...

Page 5: ...se zócalo o umbrales de la puerta PASO 2 establezca un punto de arranque todos los métodos de instalación Se recomienda la instalación paralela a la pared más larga para el mejor efecto visual Sin embargo el piso debe instalarse perpendicular a las vigas del revestimiento para piso a menos que el contrapiso haya sido reforzado para disminuir el hundimiento del contrapiso Cuando sea posible siempre...

Page 6: ...m Esto puede requerir estrechar la primera hilera para garantizar que la última tenga al menos el ancho mínimo Siempre deje un mínimo de 1 2 13 mm de expansión alrededor de todas las obstrucciones verticales PASO 3 instalación de la base de piso Instalaciones flotantes únicamente Instale la base de piso en la misma dirección en que va a instalar el revestimiento para piso de madera dura Extienda l...

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