37
2. Center the Moon in the field of your telescope.
3. Focus the telescope by turning the focus knob until the image is sharp.
4. Set the shutter speed to the appropriate setting (see table 6-1).
5. Trip the shutter using a cable release.
6. Advance the film and repeat the process.
Lunar Phase
ISO 50
ISO 100
ISO 200
ISO 400
Crescent
1/2 1/4 1/8 1/15
Quarter
1/15 1/30 1/60 1/125
Full
1/30 1/60 1/125 1/250
The exposure times listed in table 7-1 should be used as a starting point. Always make exposures that are longer and
shorter than the recommended time. Also, take a few photos at each shutter speed. This will ensure that you will
get a good photo.
•
If using black and white film, try a yellow filter to reduce the light intensity and to increase contrast.
•
Keep accurate records of your exposures. This information is useful if you want to repeat your results or if
you want to submit some of your photos to various astronomy magazines for possible publication!
•
This technique is also used for photographing the Sun with the proper solar filter.
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This form of celestial photography is designed for objects with small angular sizes, primarily the Moon and planets.
Planets, although physically quite large, appear small in angular size because of their great distances. Moderate to
high magnification is, therefore, required to make the image large enough to see any detail. Unfortunately, the
camera/telescope combination alone does not provide enough magnification to produce a usable image size on film.
In order to get the image large enough, you must attach your camera to the telescope with the eyepiece in place. To
do so, you need two additional accessories; a deluxe tele-extender (#93643), which attaches to the visual back, and a
T-ring for your particular camera make (i.e., Canon, Nikon, Pentax, etc.).
Because of the high magnifications during eyepiece projection, the field of view is quite small which makes it
difficult to find and center objects. To make the job a little easier, align the finder as accurately as possible. This
allows you to get the object in the telescope's field based on the finder's view alone.
Another problem introduced by the high magnification is vibration. Simply
tripping the shutter
⎯
even with a cable release
⎯
produces enough vibration to
smear the image. To get around this, use the camera's self-timer if the exposure
time is less than one second
⎯
a common occurrence when photographing the
Moon. For exposures over one second, use the "hat trick." This technique
incorporates a hand-held black card placed over the aperture of the telescope to act
as a shutter. The card prevents light from entering the telescope while the shutter
is released. Once the shutter has been released and the vibration has diminished (a
few seconds), move the black card out of the way to expose the film. After the
exposure is complete, place the card over the front of the telescope and close the
shutter. Advance the film and you're ready for your next shot. Keep in mind that
the card should be held a few inches in front of the telescope, and not touching it.
It is easier if you use two people for this process; one to release the camera shutter
and one to hold the card. Here's the process for making the exposure.
Table 6-1
Above is a listing of recommended exposure times when photographing the Moon
at the prime focus of your telescope.
35mm
SLR
T-Ring
Tele-Extender
Eyepiece
Visual
Back
Figure 6-1
Accessories for Projection
Photography
