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46 

45 

43 

44 

47 

47 

8. 

Fold the back of the rear step treads (parts 43) through 90° and bend 

up the two outer corners slightly. Solder the treads solidly into the etched 
rebates on the step support plates (parts 44) then fold the top forward 
through 90° and solder the assembled step to the underside of the footplate 
hard up against the valance. If you have been neat with your 
previous soldering you should find that I have allowed sufficient 
clearance in the top of the step to clear the cab side tab etc that 
projects through the footplate but if the step wont sit down 
snugly onto the footplate file away the top of the step until it 
does and then reinforce everything with solder. 

 

  Make up and fit the front steps in a similar way using (parts 45) 
treads and (parts 46) support plates. Fit the grab handles made 
from 0.7mm brass wire into the footplate above the steps.  

 

  Fold up and fit the footplate lamp brackets (parts 47) noting the 
etched marks to help positioning. Also fold up the smoke box 
door lamp bracket and place to one side for later use. 

 

  I now find that this is a good point to place the body to one side 
and construct the chassis. Once a running chassis is achieved 
we can determine that there will be no clearance problems with 
the body and then the castings and detail work can be applied. 
Alternatively you may wish to construct the chassis alongside 
the body. 

Footplate 
lamp 
bracket 

Smoke 
box 
door 
lamp 
bracket 

PAGE 9 

Feed and drain 
Pipe work made 
From soft wire 

Grab rail from 
brass wire 

  The vacuum ejector had plumbing that you may wish to 
represent using soft wire but check photos as the pipe runs 
seemed to vary on different locos. Also some locos had a 
grab rail below the ejector but this looked like a bodged on 
addition. Perhaps done at sheds where the loco crew were 
fed up with burning their hands. 

Front handle 

Body mounts 
onto folded 
plates on top 
of frames 

Operating ratchet fits into rear 
of body arm downwards 

Oil pipes made 
from soft wire 

LUBRICATORS 

Front filler is flush with 
footplate. If desired 
drill out etched one 
and fit casting 

SANDBOX  
FILLER CAPS 

  Smoke 

box 

Anti 

Vacuum Valve. These 
fit either side with the 
bolt head detail on the 
underside. Some of the 
instruction photos show 
them fitted upside 
down. This just goes to 
show that even my own 
models have parts 
fitted upside down. 

PAGE 20 

Summary of Contents for train

Page 1: ...851 Plunger Pickups if desired Slater s No 7157 Available From Slater s Temple Road Matlock Bath Matlock Derbyshire DE4 3PG Tel 01629 583993 Mashima 1833 Motor and 40 1 Gear Set Connoisseur CONNOISSEUR MODELS 0 GAUGE LMS FOWLER 4F FREIGHT ENGINE Connoisseur Models 33 Grampian Rd Penfields Stourbridge DY8 4UE Tel 01384 371418 ...

Page 2: ...y range As I was working to their specification a few areas of the kit design are slightly different from my normal practice for example I would normally separate the chassis and rods onto a nickel silver sheet These slight differences in design will probably only be apparent to modellers who have built a number of my kits as this kit builds into a very sound and detailed model BODY ASSEMBLY Parts...

Page 3: ... etched groove on the beading locating into the cab opening You may also wish to fit the cab side grab handrails at this point Now solder the cab sides to the footplate and cab front There is an etched rebate on the inside front edge of the cab side to help locate against the cab front and give a crisp square corner 5 4 8 7 6 Handrail from 0 7mm wire Spot solder to footplate 9 12 10 11 3 Take the ...

Page 4: ...ont and working from the centre solder in sections around each side Solder the spacers parts 21 into the slots on smoke box front making sure that they sit square Solder the smoke box rear part 22 into place inside the wrapper and locating onto the spacers When happy with the assembly file a slight radius around the front and back edges Pre form the rivet detail wrapper part 23 and solder around t...

Page 5: ...ing them onto the footplate and passing the tube through firebox holes Adjust the sections until you are happy with their position in relation to each other and the footplate and then tack solder boiler to smoke box joint Remove the assembly and solder the joint solid If you wish you can also solder a ring of soft wire around the circumference of the joint to represent the boiler to s m o k e box ...

Page 6: ...o tidy up the joint Fit the splasher to footplate beading parts 31 rear parts 32 centre parts 33 front Again it may be necessary to trim slightly to achieve a snug fit Using a generous amount of flux allow the solder to flood into the gaps and joints and then clean back with knife and fibre glass brush to achieve clean crisp edges 30 33 32 29 28 31 27 30 PAGE 6 For transfers I would recommend the ...

Page 7: ... buffer beam All 4Fs were vacuum brake fitted so fit a tall vacuum pipe Some locos were fitted with steam heat pipes for working passenger trains I have provided casting for this pipe but I tend not to fit them to models as I find that they can get in the way of coupling up on a layout Also some locos that were fitted with steam heat sometimes had their pipes removed for the summer Drill out the s...

Page 8: ...fitted to most locos in BR days but check your prototype photos I have provided small diameter etched holes for fitting the early type cover so open these out using a tapered broach or reamer to 4 5mm diameter and remove any burs from around the holes Fit the cast clamp into the round body and then mount into holes from the inside of the firebox FIREBOX MUD HOLE DOORS Early type cover Solder brass...

Page 9: ...his is a good point to place the body to one side and construct the chassis Once a running chassis is achieved we can determine that there will be no clearance problems with the body and then the castings and detail work can be applied Alternatively you may wish to construct the chassis alongside the body Footplate lamp bracket Smoke box door lamp bracket PAGE 9 Feed and drain Pipe work made From ...

Page 10: ...s rod weight shaft solidly to the chassis brackets 50 Fold over to form shaft brackets 0 9mm brass wire 1 5mm brass rod Fold up the ash pan sides parts 51 and solder into the half etched rebates on the inside of the frames 51 Note how cast spring fits to frame PAGE 10 time spent working on the top surface with knife blade and fibre brush removing part lines and casting blemishes will be well rewar...

Page 11: ...or running the wires back to the motor Tin end of tag If you are a little unsure about this you can solder the wire to the tag then lock it between the nuts and thread the wire and plunger through the hole in the chassis Once the plunger is fitted into the chassis I run a ring of Araldite around the housing on the inside face of the chassis side Now clear any paint from the inside of the bearings ...

Page 12: ...itable holes for these in the chassis I have found that Slater s plunger pickups require a little care in their preparation and fitting if they are to work reliably Drill out the back hole in the plastic housing 1 4mm I then run a 2 4mm drill down the inside of the plastic housing twisting the drill between finger and thumb This will remove any wisps of plastic that may jamb the plunger By twistin...

Page 13: ...s so these should be hard against the side frames I solder the bearings into place on the inside face of the chassis sideframes by using a generous amount of liquid flux and a hot iron carrying a good amount of solder I place the iron tip at the joint between bearing and side frame so that the iron is heating both the bearing and the side frame I find that after a few seconds when the heat has bui...

Page 14: ... at the section that cosmetically represents the prototype joint 24 Copper rod to form joint pin PAGE 14 Now open out the crankpin holes in the rods to accept the brass top hat bearing bushes This is best done with a tapered broach or tapered engineers reamer I have one that tapers from 3mm to 2mm and is 40mm long see yellow pages for a good engineers tool merchant they are not cheap but will last...

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