3
v3.1 39
B. Turn the On/Off control switch to the “OFF” position. Wait 5 seconds for
the red LED light flashes to stop.
C. Program the unit to the tach mode by pushing the White “option” button
once and watching the red LED light flash. Now push the start button on
the transmitter for a second until you see the red LED light flash again.
You are now in TACH mode. (If the red LED light flashed twice or
sometimes three times – simply push the transmitter button again until
you get only one flash).
D. Wait 5 seconds for the red LED light to flash 3 times.
E. Turn the On/Off control switch back to the “ON” position
F. Start the car with the key and let it get to a
normal idle. Do not press on
the gas pedal.
G. Push the red “code learn” button for a second.
H. Watch the red LED light. It will come on after 3 or 4 seconds, indicating
that the tach idle rate has been learned.
I.
Watch that the LED light remains on as the vehicle is running and turns
off when you rev the engine RPMs to twice the idle rate. The LED light
must go out when you rev the engine to about twice the idle rate to
confirm correct tach learning.
J. Turn the key to the “Lock/Off” position.
K. You are now finished.
Note: Once these steps are complete – you cannot use the LED to confirm tach
again. You can however repeat the above steps to learn tach over again at any
time.
OPTIONAL STEPS
13. Yellow Wire – Headlights/Parking Lights – Control
Harness
Connection of the YELLOW wire allows you to activate the
low beam
headlights or parking lights for remote start and lock status.
After the
remote starter has started the car, the lights will remain on until the remote
starter shuts off after 10 minutes, or when the brake pedal is pushed, or when
the car is put into gear.
This is a relay +12 Volts output.
Connect the YELLOW
wire to the wire that has +12 volts when the lights are on.
14. Blue – Horn/Siren (or Trunk) – Control Harness
The BLUE wire sends out a pulse once each time the remote starter starts the
car. The BLUE wire is also used to confirm Lock (one pulse) and Unlock (two
pulses)and pulses for 45 seconds when activated in the Panic/Alarm modes.
The BLUE wire has a +12 volt relay output, which can directly drive a horn or
siren.
If connecting to a horn, this BLUE wire goes to the positive wire of the horn.
If connecting to the positive side of the horn, this connection is generally
done at the horn itself under the vehicle’s hood.
If connecting to a siren, this BLUE wire connects to the positive wire of the
siren and the black ground wire of the siren connects to ground. Note: See
Option 11, (Siren constant) in “Setting Program Features” for changing
from the factory setting of ‘horn’ mode to the ‘siren‘ mode.
Installer Note:
This output can also be used to supply a +12 volt relay output to power an
electric trunk by setting option 22. If set, the BLUE wire now acts like a +12
volt positive trunk output and the GREEN/WHITE wire referenced in Option
22 now acts as a negative (-) horn/siren output. The GREEN/WHITE wire is a
negative transistor output, which can be used to directly drive the negative
horn wire at the steering column.
15. Brown/White – Alarm Disable – Control Harness
The BROWN/WHITE wire is
Alarm Disable
, which will give out a quick
negative pulse just before starting the vehicle. This wire can be used to turn
off the factory alarm system in vehicles which have them. In most vehicles,
this wire is located in the driver’s kick panel.
Note: If you already have a hood pin switch which is being used by a car
alarm system, you may share the wiring – but be sure to diode isolate each
wire going to the hood pin switch with the bands of diodes pointing towards
the pin switch as shown in the diagram.
10. Orange Wire – Brake Shut-off – Control Harness
Connect the ORANGE wire to the brake wire which re12 Volts when
the brake pedal is depressed.
This wire must be connected.
It arms a
critical safety feature which disables the remote starter when the brake pedal
is depressed.
Note: In some cars, the ignition must be in the “on” position to test the
power in the brake wire.
Note: If the Ignition 1 and Ignition 2 wires come on whenever the brake is
depressed and the hood is open this just means you need to initialize the unit
in section 11.
11. Initializing the Remote Starter
BEFORE THE UNIT WILL DO ANYTHING FOR THE FIRST TIME, YOU MUST
INITIALIZE THE REMOTE STARTER
A. Insert the 30 amp fuse into the fuse holder on the large PINK wire.
B. Turn the control switch on.
C. The remote starter requires the installer to
open the hood
and then
press
and hold the brake pedal
. Note: The ignition/dash lights will come on if
the unit is not initialized.
D. While depressing the brake (with the engine off and the hood open) turn
the ignition key to the “RUN” (not “start”) position.
E. Put the car in “DRIVE” from the “PARK” position.
F. Put the car back in “PARK” and release the brake.
G. Turn the key off and remove the key.
Note: Confirm initialization by turning the ON/OFF control switch “OFF” and
then “ON”. The red LED light on the remote start module will flash once
immediately as the switch is flipped from the “OFF” to the “ON” position.
If the red LED light did not flash when the control switch was turned “ON”
REPEAT STEPS A THROUGH G. See the colored Trouble Shooting Sheets if
necessary.
12A. Green Wire – Tach Input – Control Harness
The remote starter has two ways of monitoring the car during the starting
process. Both ways will ensure a clean, accurate start.
Read about both
methods before deciding which one to use. Normally you should try the
“No Tach
™
” method first.
“No Tach
™
” Starting
This starting method does
not
require the connection of the GREEN tach wire.
This method will start the car by reading the car’s voltage before attempting
to start, and then looking for a voltage increase when the alternator kicks in.
This feature automatically takes into account voltage, temperature, and the
time since the vehicle was last run. The “No-Tach
™”
starting is preset at the
factory and you can skip step 12B if you would like to use it. Note that if the
vehicle is hard to start, set Option #3 (section 24) for “extended crank.”
Tachometer sensing
If the vehicle is generally hard to start (i.e. requiring a cranking time of more
than 1 second) you will get more accurate starting with the tachometer
sensing starting method. This method starts the car by reading the engine
speed (tach) information from a wire under the hood. If you choose
tachometer sensing, connect the GREEN (18 awg) wire to the car’s tach wire
under the hood (normally the negative side of the coil or tach output of coil
pack). After you have connected the GREEN wire, you need to teach the
remote starter the vehicle’s tach rate at idle. Proceed to step 12B.
Note: You must have already initialized the remote starter from Step 11.
12B. Tach Rate Learning
Note: Only use if the tachometer sensing method is chosen.
A. Connect the GREEN wire to the car’s tach wire under the hood.
