Operation
DRILLING
1. Always unplug the drill when attaching or changing bits or
accessories.
2. Use sharp drill bits only. For WOOD, use twist drill bits, spade bits,
power auger bits, or hole saws. For METAL, use steel twist drill bits
or hole saws. For MASONRY, such as brick, cement, cinder block,
etc., use carbide-tipped bits rated for percussion drilling. Be sure
the material to be drilled is anchored or clamped firmly. If drilling
thin material, use a wood “back-up” block to prevent damage to the
material.
3. Always apply pressure in a straight line with the bit. Use enough
pressure to keep drill biting, but do not push hard enough to stall
the motor or deflect the bit.
4. Hold tool firmly to control the twisting action of the drill.
5. IF DRILL STALLS, it is usually because it is being overloaded or
improperly used. RELEASE TRIGGER IMMEDIATELY, remove
drill bit from work, and determine cause of stalling. DO NOT
CLICK TRIGGER ON AND OFF IN AN ATTEMPT TO START A
STALLED DRILL — THIS CAN DAMAGE THE DRILL.
6. To minimize stalling or breaking through the material, reduce
pressure on drill and ease the bit through the last fractional part of
the hole.
7. Keep the motor running when pulling the bit back out of a drilled
hole. This will help prevent jamming.
8. With variable speed drills there is no need to center punch the
point to be drilled. Use a slow speed to start the hole and
accelerate by squeezing the trigger harder when the hole is deep
enough to drill without the bit skipping out.
DRILLING IN METAL
An SDS to round shank adaptor chuck is required.
Ensure that
tool is in “rotation only” mode. (DW567 only. The DW565 has no
“rotation only” mode). Start drilling with slow speed and increase to full
5
English
power while applying firm pressure on the tool. A smooth even flow of
metal chips indicates the proper drilling rate. Use a cutting lubricant
when drilling metals. The exceptions are cast iron and brass which
should be drilled dry. The cutting lubricants that work best are
sulphurized cutting oil or lard oil; bacon-grease will also serve the
purpose.
NOTE:
Large (5/16” to 1/2”) holes in steel can be made easier if a
pilot hole (5/32” to 3/16”) is drilled first.
DRILLING IN WOOD
An SDS to round shank adaptor chuck is required.
Ensure that
tool is in “rotation only” mode. (DW567 only. The DW565 has no
“rotation only” mode). Start drilling with slow speed and increase to full
power while applying firm pressure on the tool. Holes in wood can be
made with the same twist drills used for metal. These bits may
overheat unless pulled out frequently to clear chips from the flutes. For
larger holes, use spade bits, power auger bits, or hole saws. Work that
is apt to splinter should be backed up with a block of wood.
DRILLING IN MASONRY
When drilling in masonry, use carbide tipped bits rated for percussion
drilling and be certain that the bit is sharp. Use a constant and firm
force on the tool to drill most effectively. A smooth, even flow of dust
indicates the proper drilling rate.
Depth Rod
To adjust the depth rod, loosen the handle and move rod so that the
distance between the end of the rod and the end of the bit equals
the desired drilling depth. When drilling with depth rod, stop when
end of rod reaches surface of material.
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