11
English
BEVEL SETTING
TYPE OF CUT
LEFT SIDE, INSIDE CORNER:
33.85° Left
1. Top of molding against fence
2. Miter table set right 31.62°
3. Save left end of cut
RIGHT SIDE, INSIDE CORNER:
33.85° Right
1. Top of molding against fence.
2. Miter table set at left 31.62°
3. Save right end of cut
LEFT SIDE, OUTSIDE CORNER:
33.85° Right
1. Top of molding against fence.
2. Miter table set at left 31.62°
3. Save left end of cut
RIGHT SIDE, OUTSIDE CORNER:
33.85° Left
1. Top of molding against fence
2. Miter table set right 31.62°
3. Save right end of cut
When setting bevel and miter angles for all compound
miters, remember that:
The angles presented for crown moldings are very
precise and difficult to set exactly. Since they can
easily shift slightly and very few rooms have exactly
square corners, all settings should be tested on scrap
molding.
PRETESTING WITH SCRAP MATERIAL IS
EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!
ALTERNATIVE METHOD FOR CUTTING CROWN
MOLDING
Place the molding on the table at an angle between the
fence and the saw table, as shown in Figure 17A. Use of the
crown molding fence accessory (DW7084) is highly recom-
mended because of its degree of accuracy and conve-
nience. The crown molding fence accessory is available for
purchase from your local dealer.
The advantage to cutting crown molding using this method is
that no bevel cut is required. Minute changes in the miter
angle can be made without affecting the bevel angle. This
way, when corners other than 90 degrees are encountered,
the saw can be quickly and easily adjusted for them. Use the
crown molding fence accessory to maintain the angle at
which the molding will be on the wall.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CUTTING CROWN MOLDING ANGLED
BETWEEN THE FENCE AND BASE OF THE SAW FOR ALL
CUTS:
1. Angle the molding so the bottom of the molding (part
which goes against the wall when installed) is against the
fence and the top of the molding is resting on the base of
the saw, as shown in Figure 17A.
2. The angled “flats” on the back of the molding must rest
squarely on the fence and base of the saw.
FIG. 18
BLADE
FENCE
RIGHT
FIG. 19
BLADE
FENCE
WRONG
INSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1. Miter right at 45°
2. Save the right side of cut
Right side
1. Miter left at 45°
2. Save left side of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1. Miter left at 45°
2. Save right side of cut
Right side
1. Miter right at 45°
2. Save left side of cut
Special Cuts
NEVER MAKE ANY CUT UNLESS THE MATERIAL IS
SECURED ON THE TABLE AND AGAINST THE FENCE.
Aluminum Cutting:
ALWAYS USE THE APPROPRIATE SAW BLADE MADE
ESPECIALLY FOR CUTTING ALUMINUM. These are
available at your local D
E
WALT retailer or D
E
WALT service
center. Certain workpieces, due to their size, shape or
surface finish, may require the use of a clamp or fixture to
prevent movement during the cut
.
Position the material so
that you will be cutting the thinnest cross section, as shown
in Figure 18. Figure 19 illustrates the wrong way to cut these
extrusions. Use a wax lubricant when cutting aluminum such
as Johnson’s Stick Wax No. 140. Apply the stick wax directly
to the saw blade before cutting. Never apply stick wax to a
moving blade.
The wax, available at most hardware stores and industrial
mill supply houses, provides proper lubrication and keeps
chips from adhering to the blade.
Be sure to properly secure workpiece. Refer to page 3 for
correct saw blade.
Bowed Material:
When cutting bowed material always position it as shown in
Figure 20 and never like that shown in Figure 21. Positioning
the material incorrectly will cause it to pinch the blade near
the completion of the cut.
Cutting Plastic Pipe or Other Round Material:
Plastic pipe can be easily cut with your saw. It should be cut
just like wood and
CLAMPED OR HELD FIRMLY TO THE
FENCE TO KEEP IT FROM ROLLING
. This is extremely
important when making angle cuts.
Cutting Large Material:
Occasionally you will encounter a piece of wood a little too
large to fit beneath the blade guard. A little extra height can
be gained by rolling the guard up out of the way. Avoid doing
this as much as possible, but if need be, the saw will oper-
ate properly and make the bigger cut. NEVER TIE, TAPE,
OR OTHERWISE HOLD THE GUARD OPEN WHEN
OPERATING THIS SAW.
Removing and Replacing Belt
The belt is designed to last the life of the tool. However,
abuse of the tool could cause the belt to fail.
If the blade does not turn when the motor is running, the belt
has failed. To inspect or replace the belt, remove the belt
cover screws. Remove the belt cover. Inspect the ribs of the
belt for wear or failure. Check belt tension by squeezing the
belt as shown in Figure 22. The belt halves should almost
touch when squeezing firmly with the thumb and index finger.
To adjust the tension, loosen, but do not remove, the four
Phillips head screws shown. Then rotate the set screw on
the top of the motor plate casting until the proper tension is
