WATER LINE INSTALLATION
15
CAUTION:
• If you use your refrigerator before connecting
the water line, make sure the icemaker feeler arm
is kept in the STOP (up) position.
• Do not install the icemaker tubing in areas
where temperatures fall below 32°F (0°C).
•When using any electrical device (such as a
power drill) during installation, be sure the device
is insulated or wired in a manner to prevent the
hazard of electric shock.
• All installations must be in accordance with
local plumbing code requirements.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
This water line installation is not warranted by
the refrigerator or icemaker manufacturer.
Follow these instructions carefully to minimize
the risk of expensive water damage.
SHUT OFF THE MAIN WATER SUPPLY.
Turn on the nearest faucet long enough to clear
the line of water.
1
INSTALL THE SHUTOFF VALVE ON THE
NEAREST FREQUENTLY USED DRINKING
WATER LINE.
a. Choose a location for the valve that is easily
accessible. It is best to connect into the side of
a vertical water pipe. When it is necessary to
connect into a horizontal water pipe, make the
connection to the top or side, rather than at the
bottom, to avoid drawing off any sediment from
the water pipe.
b. Drill a 1/4
″
hole in the water pipe, using a
sharp bit. Remove any burrs resulting from
drilling the hole in the pipe. (Do not drill
a hole if the valve is a self-piercing type.)
c. Fasten the shutoff valve to the cold water pipe
with the pipe clamp.
d. Tighten the
clamp screws until the
sealing washer
begins to swell. Do
not overtighten or
you may crush the
copper tubing.
2
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
• A cold water supply is required for automatic
icemaker operation. The water pressure must be
between 20 and 120 p.s.i. (1.4 and 8.3 bars).
• Power drill, unless you have a self-piercing valve.
• Copper tubing, 1/4
″
outer diameter to connect
the refrigerator to the water supply. Be sure both
ends of the tubing are cut square.
To determine how much copper tubing you need:
measure the distance from the water valve on the
back of the refrigerator to the water supply pipe.
Then add 8 feet (244 cm). Be sure there is
sufficient extra tubing (about 8 feet [244 cm]
coiled into 3 turns of about 10 inches [25 cm]
diameter) to allow the refrigerator to move out
from the wall after installation. Do not use plastic
tubing or plastic fittings because the water supply
line is under pressure at all times. Also, certain
types of plastic tubing may become brittle with
age and crack, resulting in water leakage.
• Shutoff valve to connect to the cold water line.
The shut-off valve should have a water inlet with a
minimum inside diameter of 5/32
″
at the point of
connection to the COLD WATER LINE. Saddle-
type shut-off valves are included in many water
supply kits. Before purchasing, make sure a
saddle-type valve complies with your local
plumbing codes.
• Two 1/4
″
outer diameter compression nuts
and 2 ferrules (sleeves)—to connect the copper
tubing to the shutoff valve and the refrigerator
water valve.
• If your existing water line has a flared fitting at
the end, you will need an adapter (available at
plumbing supply stores) to connect the water line
to the refrigerator OR—you can cut off the flared
fitting with a tube cutter and then use a
compression fitting.
Typical ways to connect to water supply
Under sink
to cold
water pipe
Through wall to
utility room cold
water pipe
In crawl
space under
house
Through floor
to basement
cold water pipe
Pipe
clamp
Saddle-type
shutoff
valve
Washer
Inlet
end
Vertical
cold water
pipe
(continued next page)
