Graphite GR910-B, Instruction Manual

• Petroleum Coke

 Never burn petroleum coke as this 

burns at a very high temperature and its continued 
use will almost certainly cause irreparable damage to 
components such as the grate, baffle plate and fire- 
fence.

• Bituminous House Coal

 is not recommended  

because it produces excessive soot deposits, which is 
not good for the environment, and thus considerably 
increases the need for frequent cleaning of the stove 
and flue system.

• Household Rubbish

 Printed matter (excluding very 

small amounts of newspaper for starting the fire),  
plastic, rubber, lacquered or impregnated wood,  
plywood, chipboard and household rubbish, such as 
milk cartons, should also be avoided. During  
combustion some of these materials may develop 
substances which could be hazardous to your health 
and be harmful to the environment. 

• Flammable Liquids

 Never use methylated spirits, 

petrol or other highly inflammable liquids for  
lighting the fire as these could cause an explosion  
in the confined spaces of the fire chamber. 
 

UNDERSTANDING HOW 

DIFFERENT FUELS BURN

Wood and solid or mineral fuels (multi fuels) burn in 
different ways and you will need to understand these  
differences if you are a newcomer to wood burners 
and multi fuel stoves. 
Putting it simply, mineral fuels, such as coal or  
smokeless ovals, need a flow of combustion air 
through the bottom grate which is known as Primary 
Air, whereas wood fuel works much better when its 
combustion air is taken from above the grate. This 
source of air is known as Secondary Air. Wood always 
burns best on a bed of its own embers and the ashes 
shouldn’t need to be riddled. Again mineral fuels  
differ because they need combustion air from below 
the grate and therefore the grate needs to be  
regularly riddled to keep the air passage clear.
See the section below to help you understand how 
to control the different types of combustion air that 
wood and mineral fuels need.
Your new stove can burn very well, or very poorly, 
depending on how you light the fire, how you refuel 
the fire, and, of course, the type and quality of the 
fuel that you are burning. A log moisture meter is a 
cost-effective investment if you want to maximise the 
efficiency of your stove and wood fuel.
Wear protective gloves when loading a burning stove 
and place the fuel precisely where you want it in the 
fire chamber by using heat-resistant tongs. Always 
open the stove door gently to avoid unnecessary air 
turbulence which could cause fly ash or small lighted 
embers to be drawn from the fire chamber and  
beyond the protective hearth. 

14

The stove is 

not

 designed to be operated with the 

door left open continuously – this will reduce its  
operating efficiency and it will consume more fuel 
very quickly and produce less heat.

CONTROLLING THE COMBUSTION AIR

Your Graphite Boiler stove has three simple-to-use air 
controls: 

1 Primary Air Control

 This is the large control knob 

in the centre at the base of the stove front. Primary 
Air is required when burning mineral fuels (and to 
quickly aid the supply of air during the initial  
combustion of wood). Using the tool provided, turn it 
anti-clockwise to open and add combustion air.

2 Secondary Air Control

 This is the sprung slider 

control in the middle of the grille above the door. 
Move it to the right for the maximum supply of air 
and to the left to limit this supply. Secondary Air 
is needed when burning wood and is not usually 
needed when burning mineral fuels (unless it is to 
maximise the air supply to aid the initial combustion). 

3 Thermostat Control

 Zero is closed and 8 fully 

open. This adjusts the temperature of the water 
leaving the boiler from low when closed off (approx 
50ºC) to high (approx 90ºC) by controlling part of the 
combustion air supply to the fire chamber.
The effectiveness of adjustment will involve the  
interaction of the Primary and Secondary Air supply 

The Primary Air Control

The Secondary Air Control