Graphite GR910-B Instruction Manual Download

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and other factors such as the fuel type, the system
set-up and the pump ﬂow speed. Finding the right
setting(s) will be a matter of trial and error as well as
personal preference. For example the Thermostat
Control, can sometimes be used for simultaneous
control of both the water temperature and the burn
rate of a mineral fuel load by shutting off both the
Secondary Air and the Primary Air.
It is worth noting that this control does not ‘turn off’
the hot water production completely and that your
system design must therefore include a means to
dissipate any surplus heat – see page 22.

BURNING WOOD LOGS

Important: Try not to exceed the recommended
log length (400mm / 16”). This size allows
approximately 25mm (1”) of space at either end
of the log to prevent cold water spots in the
boiler.

Remember, these instructions are an initial guideline
to help you get started. As you begin to gain
experience of your stove and choice of fuel(s), as well
as your ﬂue system, you will be able to adjust these
procedures and control settings to your personal
preference.
As previously stated wood burns best on a bed of its
own embers which also forms a barrier to reﬂect heat
and protect the ﬁre grate from being damaged. You
can therefore leave a bed of ash in place to create a
layer of approximately 25mm (1”), only occasionally
removing the surplus ash from the grate. Ash should

still be regularly removed from the ash pan – never let
the ash pan get over-ﬁlled. Once you have lived with
your stove for a while you’ll soon get to know how
often you should empty this.
Ensure that there is a gap of approximately 25mm
(1”) between both ends of the logs and the boiler
sides. Log ends placed against the boiler sides restrict
combustion and can create unwanted cold spots in
both the log and the water. As the end grain of the
wood produces more of the remaining moisture and
gases, whenever possible point the log ends away
from the glass to help keep the glass clean.

Fuel Load

Ideally the logs should be approximately

400mm (16”) long. A typical fuel load should weigh
approximately 4.8kg (10lb 9oz).
To get the best out of your stove, ideally you will need
three different thicknesses of wood log as you build
the ﬁre through each lighting phase:

1 Kindling

This is generally ﬁnely chopped wood,

approximately 5 to 10mm thick (1/4” to 1/2”) from
your supply of logs. Alternatively use dried twigs or
small branches which have also been fully seasoned

2 Lighting Logs

These are slightly bigger diameter

logs, approximately 25 to 50mm (1” to 2”)

3 Refuelling Logs

These should be approximately 75

to 100mm thick (3” to 4”). Bigger logs should be split
down to this size

LIGHTING A WOOD FIRE

The main difference between smoke and ﬂame is
temperature, so when lighting a ﬁre you need to get
the temperature in the ﬁre chamber as high as
possible as quickly as possible. This is also critical in
creating a good ‘draw’ within the ﬂue system,
especially when it is particularly cold outside.
When ﬂue gas temperatures are below 120°C,
creosote tars form within the gases and the ﬁre will
be smoky and burn with a dull orange ﬂame. Burning
the stove like this for a sustained period will create
unnecessary smoke and not be good for the chimney
or ﬂue system.

1 The Lighting Phase

For best results:

Primary Air (bottom control) – fully open
Secondary Air (top control) – fully open
Thermostat Control – fully open (8)
Door – slightly ajar (optional)

Avoid trying to light the ﬁre with excessive amounts
of paper as this has a very high ash content which can
‘smother’ the ash bed. If you have good dry kindling
or sticks then paper should not be needed at all.
The size of the logs used at each stage is also
important. If the kindling wood is too large this will
not light well and will be slow to get started. Two
handfuls of smaller pieces of kindling (equivalent to

Thermostat Control

Avoid abutting the logs against the

boiler sides which creates cold water spots