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HADRON H2 Owner’s Manual 2018       

7

 

you won’t foot fast on that setting so return to your pre-determined settings as soon as 
possible. 
 

Reaching 

 
Light airs 
 
The priority is to get flow across the sail. Leave the forestay and outhaul on upwind 
setting. Ease the kicker until the top batten goes straight, then pull a little back on until 
the top batten has a shallow bend in it. 
Raise the centreboard until you develop lee helm, then put it down a bit to neutralise 
the rudder. Keep your weight over the thwart and sheet straight off the boom. 
Aim to keep the leech tell tales just flowing and the boat flat. 
 
Medium airs reaching - looking for maximum power. 
 
Pull the forestay on so that the leeward shroud is just snug. 
Ease the kicker until the top batten goes straight, then pull a little back on until the top 
batten has a shallow bend in it - this will need more tension than light airs. 
Ease the outhaul to give 200mm depth from sail to middle of boom above th mainsheet 
blocks. 
Raise the board until you develop lee helm, then down a bit to neutralise the rudder. 
You need enough board so that the boat tracks straight and changes direction easily, 
but no more. Weight in upwind position - bow should be just clear. Sheet off the boom if 
it's a broader reach. 
 
Heavy airs reaching - looking for control and easy steering. 
 
Pull the forestay on so leeward shroud is just snug. 
Ease the kicker until the top batten goes straight, then pull a little back on until the top 
batten has a shallow bend in it - ease more if you need to steer or are having to move a 
lot of mainsheet. Leave outhaul on upwind setting. Raise the centreboard enough to 
unload the rudder, but leave enough to stand on!  Move your weight back to keep the 
bow clear - move forward in lulls. 
 
 
 

Running  

 
In light airs, move well forward in order to trim the boat down by the bow. You can sit 
astride the central tank or ’side-saddle’ on the central tank or the thwart. If the latter, 
you can lean forward comfortably with your forearm along the side deck. In the really 
light stuff you can even lie in the bottom of the boat with your legs draped over the 
central tank. No kneeling required! In stronger winds, the best position is on the side 
deck (see below). 
 
Some easing of the centreboard is acceptable (45 degrees), but if this is over-done the 
boat will become less stable – especially if your weight is well forward. 
 
A lot of people sail down wind with the boom on the shrouds and the kicker on hard in 
order to lock the leech up. But because the leech is hard, when you head up it bites 
you – the boat heads up more aggressively than expected. And when you bear off the 
flow reverses all in one hit and it bites you again. A bit of twist smooths the flow 
transition. 
In most wind conditions aim to keep the flow going across the sail from leech to luff in 
the bottom half of the sail. This requires sheeting the boom in enough to stop the 
shroud distorting the sail and using only sufficient kicker to keep the head of the sail 
from going forward of the mast. Keeping flow over the rig loads it up so that you can sit 

Summary of Contents for H2

Page 1: ...l 2018 1 HADRON H2 OWNER S MANUAL 2018 The Hadron H2 was designed in 2015 by Keith Callaghan and is manufactured by Hadron Dinghies Ltd 7 Ramsey Road Hadleigh IPSWICH IP7 6AN Tel 44 0 1473 823587 Email sales hadrondinghy com ...

Page 2: ...re tight Ensure that you have a tool kit handy when you first rig the boat in case small adjustments need to be made The Hadron H2 is a one design racing dinghy The hull and centreboard are strictly controlled but the owner is allowed some discretion with regard to type make and location of fittings The rig is controlled by dimensions and spars and sail may only be supplied by a manufacturer licen...

Page 3: ... by pulling hard on the forestay tackle In strong winds some depowering effect can be achieved by reducing rig tension so that the leeward shroud swings loose Toestrap adjustment Before rigging the boat adjust the toestraps at the forward end to suit your leg length and preferred hiking position Adjustment for height and reach is possible Shorter sailors may also want to adjust the lateral positio...

Page 4: ...t 4 Fit the clew band of the sail over the outboard end of the boom Pass the clew outhaul line through the starboard side of the clew cringle and slip the end knot over the groove in the boom end fitting 5 Lead the Cunningham line through the Cunningham cringle on the sail luff This cringle is situated about 150mm above the tack cringle Pass the loop in the end of the Cunningham line over the shou...

Page 5: ...y trolley is so light that it floats it will facilitate launching and recovery if it is weighted so that it sinks Stand in the water on the windward side of the boat and hold the shroud with your forward hand Pull the centreboard down line sufficiently to lower the centreboard a little Check that all control lines are cleated on both sides In stronger winds ensure that the kicker is cleated but no...

Page 6: ...e leech harder As the wind increases to the point where you cannot keep the boat upright slacken the forestay to increase mast bend slacken the leech and thus depower the rig Sail with the mainsheet cleated most of the time If you get a gust use it to gain height If you feel the need to ease the mainsheet because you are getting overpowered and can t steer through it consistently ease the forestay...

Page 7: ...ittle back on until the top batten has a shallow bend in it ease more if you need to steer or are having to move a lot of mainsheet Leave outhaul on upwind setting Raise the centreboard enough to unload the rudder but leave enough to stand on Move your weight back to keep the bow clear move forward in lulls Running In light airs move well forward in order to trim the boat down by the bow You can s...

Page 8: ...nherant stability and balance of the hull design Always gybe at full speed as this gives the boat more dynamic stability and reduces the wind forces on the rig Sheet the boom in slightly then cleat and drop the mainsheet Ensure the boat is upright and steer positively into the gybe Grasp the falls of the mainsheet and pull the boom over as the boat turns through the gybe Duck Cross the boat and co...

Page 9: ...it can be deployed by pulling on the forward part not the aft part as that end is fixed When fully extended the righting line forms a loop approximately 1 metre in depth the length can be adjusted if required Recommended righting procedure If the boat is inverted this happens infrequently get the boat into a horizontal position by standing on the weather gunwhale while holding the centreboard Once...

Page 10: ...r long periods with a bottom cover fitted d If the boat has been sailed in salt water wash the boat with fresh water before storage Salt water is hygroscopic corrosive to certain metals and causes galvanic corrosion in others carbon stainless steel and aluminium are potentially a toxic mix so it s best to wash it all off Sail The sail should be rolled up never folded and stored dry and in its bag ...

Page 11: ...arge 6 Insurance Hadron Dinghies Ltd suggest GJW Direct as insurers for your Hadron H2 Other insurers are available For further information spare parts and accessories contact Hadron Dinghies Ltd 7 Ramsey Road Hadleigh IPSWICH Suffolk IP7 6AN Tel 44 0 1473 823587 Email sales hadrondinghy com Effective 3 July 2018 Version 9 Previous issues 1 March 2016 April 2016 July August 2016 September 2016 16 ...

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