Figure 4.9 Connection of pipe to inlet (top entry shown). Not to scale.
Page 10
Rear Entry
If the pipework is to enter from the rear, you must cut away the wall from around the pipe to allow room for the nut on
the compression elbow to be recessed into the wall (See
Fig. 4.11
). The pipework MUST be connected to the elbow
BEFORE the shower is fitted to the wall; if you were to fix the pipe in place first, you would not be able to get a
spanner onto the compression nut.
Figure 4.11
Depending on the type of compression elbow used, you may need to remove a small part of the bottom section of the
backplate in order for it to fit over the elbow nut.
Top Entry
You must connect the ELBOW to the INLET SPIGOT first; if you were to connect the elbow to the pipe first, there
would not be enough room within the pipe channel in the shower to manoeuvre the elbow onto the spigot.
Side Entry
You must use a straight connector with an overall length (including nuts and olives) of less than 42mm.
Plumbing:
4.10
Decide where to connect to the water mains for your feed to the shower.
Ensure that the pipe you have selected is not a gas pipe (they can look similar) or a hot water pipe, nor from a cold
water storage tank (unless you have sufficient head - see
Section 2.2
).
4.11
Cut the necessary pipework to length, assemble and offer up to the installation before making any soldered
joints. Ensure that the pipe is the correct length, since to shorten it can be difficult once joints have been made.
4.12
Carry out any cutting with pipe cutters in preference to a hacksaw, to minimise swarf. Use 15mm compression
fittings, preferably with copper compression rings (olives), for the connection to the shower heater.
4.13
Remember to incorporate a servicing valve and, if required, a double-check valve (see
Section 2.7
).
4.14
Locate your stop cock, and turn off the water supply. Check that the pipe you intend tapping off no longer carries
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