Adjustments for Competition
111
You can “adjust” the power delivery of the
standard engine to suit track conditions by
changing gearing. This allows you to utilize a
different portion of the engine’s power range at a
given throttle setting. New gearing may provide
the change you are looking for without the need
to consider further modifications.
The portion of your engine’s power range you
use can be adjusted by changing the final drive
ratio with different sized rear sprockets. Gearing
changes allow you to more closely match the
type of terrain and the available traction.
Normally, a change of one tooth on the rear
sprocket will be sufficient.
There is a choice of both higher and lower final
drive ratios with two optional aluminum driven
sprockets. For muddy or sandy courses, there is
a more durable steel driven sprocket with the
standard number of teeth. Like the optional
springs, these sprockets are listed in the Optional
Parts List section of this manual.
Unless you have the required mechanical
knowhow, tools, and an official Honda Service
Manual, sprocket changing should be done by
your Honda dealer.
Higher Gearing (less rear sprocket teeth)
• increases top speed in each gear (provided the
engine will pull the higher gearing)
• reduces frequency of shifting (wider gear
ratios)
• reduces engine rpm at a given throttle setting
or ground speed (which may allow better rear
wheel traction on slippery or loose terrain)
However:
• the engine may not pull the higher gearing
• the spacing between gears may be too wide
• engine rpm may be too low
Lower Gearing (more rear sprocket teeth)
• decrease top speed in each gear
• increases frequency of shifting (narrower gear
ratios)
• increases engine rpm at a given throttle
setting or ground speed (which may provide
more power-to-the-ground on good traction
surfaces)
However:
• spacing between gears may be too narrow
• engine rpm may be too high
Some tracks may be watered heavily prior to the
first race, then lightly or not at all during the day.
This results in a track surface that is slippery
during the first few races, then changes from
good to great and back to good and possibly ends
the day with a slick rock-hard consistency.
Ideally, your gearing should be adjusted to suit
all these conditions.
• Wet and slippery or sandy conditions: use a
higher gear (less teeth) to keep engine rpm
down, and avoid unwanted wheelspin. The
engine may bog in certain corners so you’ll
need to slip the clutch to compensate;
downshifting may be too drastic a change in
speed.
• Average conditions: use the standard sprocket.
• Hard (but not slippery) track conditions: use
lower gearing (more teeth) to keep the engine
rpm high where the engine produces the most
power. This may require an extra upshift on
certain sections or perhaps you can just rev it
out a bit longer.
For tight tracks, consider lower gearing to avoid
having to slip the clutch frequently. Repeated
fanning or pulling of the clutch lever in a turn to
raise engine rpm may eventually damage the
clutch system.
A gearing change may help for riding in sand,
where you want to keep the front end light so it
can float from the peak of one sand whoop to the
next. Generally, with higher gearing, it is easier
to maintain that perfect attitude (maximum rear
wheel traction and a light front end) because you
remain in the powerband longer in each gear.
The higher gearing allows you to steer more
efficiently with throttle control and body English.
If you are riding a track with sections where you
choose to over-rev the engine temporarily rather
than shifting up, higher gearing might help.
Sometimes you have to sacrifice performance on
one section of the track to gain a better overall
time. Your goal is the fastest overall lap time,
even if the cost is some sections where the
gearing feels wrong.
If you decide to try a gearing change, have
someone check your times with a stopwatch
(before and after the change) to get an accurate
appraisal of the change. “Seat-of-the-pants”
feelings can’t be trusted. Eliminating wheelspin
with a gearing change can make you feel like
you’re going slower when, in reality, you’ve
decreased your time by increasing your speed
with better traction.
These gearing recommendations should be
evaluated by considering your ability, your riding
style, and the track.
Gearing
CR250R/104-114(31KSK630) 6/2/06 10:03 AM Page 111
Summary of Contents for CR250R
Page 2: ......
Page 6: ...Motorcycle Safety 1 Motorcycle Safety mation 2 recautions 2 cations 3 4 ...
Page 8: ...Accessories Modifications Motorcycle Safety 3 ...
Page 9: ...replacement ...
Page 10: ...Operating Controls 5 Operating Controls Locations 6 ...
Page 11: ...kickstarter rear brake pedal throttle grip front brake lever ...
Page 12: ...Before Riding 7 Before Riding e 8 ady to Ride 9 9 ...
Page 13: ...RNING met increases the injury or death in a ys wear a helmet eye er protective apparel ...
Page 15: ......
Page 17: ......
Page 19: ......
Page 20: ...Basic Operating Instructions 15 Break in Guidelines ...
Page 21: ......
Page 23: ......
Page 27: ......
Page 36: ...Servicing Your Honda 31 7 and shroud B bolts A bolts collars 9 s e 29 Fuel Tank Removal 9 8 ...
Page 48: ...Servicing Your Honda 43 Throttle ...
Page 69: ......
Page 82: ...Servicing Your Honda 77 6 RC cover bolt olt t Additional Maintenance Procedures 1 3 2 5 ...
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Page 119: ......
Page 120: ...Tips 115 torcycle 116 117 nt 118 119 Tips 115 Tips ...
Page 123: ...drained fluids is harmful to ...
Page 125: ......
Page 127: ... is stamped on the left 2 ...
Page 132: ...Technical Information 127 High Altitude Carburetor Adjustment ...
Page 135: ...ng Suspension Settings Gearing Chassis Adjustments Maintenance ...
Page 138: ...Technical Information 133 Wiring Diagram ...
Page 139: ......
Page 140: ...Consumer Information 135 136 137 138 ub USA only 139 Consumer Information ...
Page 142: ...Contacting Honda Consumer Information 137 ...
Page 144: ...Consumer Information 139 The Honda Rider s Club USA only ealer for more information on to ...
Page 148: ...Index 143 Index ...