Barossa SRS2 Freestanding
6
Barossa SRS2 Freestanding
7
Installation
(continued)
“C” angle iron bracket
fire bricks
bevelled edge
Baffle Plate
Take the firebricks out of the heater. They are to be placed so that they stand on end against the rear and two side walls
of the firebox. You will notice that the bricks have a bevel on one end.
Inside the firebox there is a “C” shaped angle iron firebrick retaining bracket. This is designed to sit over the bricks and
hold them in place. This should be placed in the firebox so that you see a flat face of the angle iron on both sides of the
firebox and at the rear of the firebox.
Holding the “C” frame up to the top of the firebox,
insert a whole firebrick, standing it vertically with the
bevel edge pointing down and facing inwards toward
the left hand side of the firebox. Lower the left hand
side of the “C” frame onto the firebrick. Repeat with a
whole firebrick on the right hand side.
Place firebricks (3 whole firebricks) using the same
method against the back wall of the firebox.
Now place one extra whole firebrick on either side of
the firebox to complete the installation of the
firebricks. (i.e. two each side and remainder on the
back wall.)
Push each brick and “C” frame firmly against the wall
of the firebox and you are ready to light your fire.
Placement of firebricks in firebox
Fitting the Baffle Plate
1. Feed the baffle plate through the door opening with front
edge folded up all the way to the rear of the heater.
2. Lift front over Pin A and slide towards front of heater.
3. Lift rear so the baffle plate is horizontal and move
towards back of the heater.
4. Lower over Pin B.
5. Baffle plate must be sitting on Pins A & B.
Final inspection prior to use
•
Ensure the baffle plate is firmly located.
•
Ensure firebrick liners – sides and back are positioned correctly.
•
Check fan cord has not been damaged during transit.
•
Plug in fan cord and ensure cord does not touch stove surface.
•
Check all door seals are fitting correctly.
WARNING
!
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OPERATE THIS APPLIANCE WITHOUT READING AND
UNDERSTANDING THESE OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY. FAILURE TO
OPERATE THIS APPLIANCE PROPERLY MAY CAUSE UNDUE DAMAGE TO THE
APPLIANCE OR RESULT IN A FLUE FIRE.
Read these instructions
Operating your Jindara Wood Heater
Starting your fire
Place a firelighter or paper in the bottom of the firebox and place a large amount of small kindling on top. Ignite the
paper or the firelighter. Set the air control to high and leave the main door open approximately 25mm. When the kindling
is burning, place about four pieces of small wood on top of the burning kindling. Once the wood is alight, close the main
door. After approximately 20 minutes, turn the air control down to medium and, turn the fan on to low speed.
On the initial fire up you may detect smoke coming from the paint finish and from any oils that may be on the steel on
the outside of the firebox. This is normal. It is suggested to well ventilate your home on the initial fire up. Please refer to
our section ‘Paint Curing and Cure’.
The glass door
Always operate your heater with the door closed and locked. The only time you can leave the door open is on initial
lighting, or when reloading the heater.
Care of your glass
If you are burning good dry wood, you will have very little discolouration of your glass in normal burning cycle. If you aim
for an eight to ten hour overnight burn, you should not get much discolouration. You can control this by adjusting the air
control, moving from the left and slowly creeping the control to the right. After a number of days you will find the right
position to suit your requirements and the fuel that you are using.
Cleaning the glass
Generally the only time you will possibly need to clean your glass is after a long overnight burn. If you find that you have
a wet sticky black film on your glass (creosote), it is better to burn the heater as normal for one load of wood. When the
wood has burnt down to a hot bed of embers, open the door and leave it wide open until the glass cools sufficiently to
be wiped with a damp cloth. This should clean all the white smoky film off the glass. Creosote on the glass is normally a
sign that you have tried to get too long an overnight burn or you have burnt excessively wet or green wood.If the film on
the glass won’t come off with a wet cloth, you can use wet ash from the ash bed as a cleaner or commercial products
such as Crystal Clear, Johnson Foam Clean or Windex.
Normal Operations
When you get up in the morning, open up the air control of the heater to high position to start the embers glowing. Place
three or four pieces of wood on top of the embers and leave the door open 25mm. Once the fuel starts to flame close the
door. As the heater starts to heat up turn the fan on to low, (approx 20 minutes) and begin reducing the air control
towards a lower setting.
You will find with the fan on low you will only need to run the heater between low and medium to maintain the
temperature you desire in your home. To obtain the maximum heat dissipation from the heater it is necessary to run the
fan at any time the heater is running above the low position.
For best results it is best to burn 260mm long wood and load your wood straight into the firebox front to rear. This will
give optimum efficiency and recoverable heat, and minimise creosote formation and smoke emissions.
Overnight burn
Approximately 30 minutes before turning the heater down to overnight burn it is recommended to load the heater with
fuel for the overnight burn. Leave the air control in the medium to high position. Let the heater run for about thirty
minutes. This will reduce the moisture content in the fuel before shut down. (This will help reduce the creosote formation
in the firebox and flue.) Set the air control to the setting you have found best for your requirements. Turn the fan off and
retire. The aim when overnight burning is to have only a few hot embers left in the bottom of the firebox in the morning.
Not huge lumps of wood.
