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REDUCING THE WIDTH OF THE BLIND
1.
Measure how much the blind is to be shortened – the same length from each end – and
mark a line with a ruler (diagram 1).
2.
Undo the plastic plugs on the top and bottom rails.
3.
Cut the top and bottom rail with a fine-toothed saw. Cut the laminae with a pair of scissors.
4.
Refit the plastic plugs.
INSTALLATION
NOTE:
Depending on the actual surface you may need to use other fittings than the ones supplied.
– On a wooden wall, screw in the supplied wood screws. Always predrill to avoid cracking.
– Use expander screws or the equivalent on plasterboard walls.
– Special drills and plugs are needed for stone/brick.
POSITIONING
NOTE:
The brackets can be mounted on a wall or ceiling.
Positioning in window recess
Place the blind so that it goes free from handles and the like (diagram 2).
Positioning outside window recess
Mount the blind so that it extends the same length on both sides of the window (diagram 3).
– When lowered the blind should reach the window sill, or no more than 7.5 cm below it.
– If you want the blind to be completely over the window when up, then the top rail should
be mounted at least 13 cm over the window recess.
FITTING THE BRACKETS
1.
Place a bracket on each end of the top rail.
– Make sure the flexible tabs point straight out from the bracket. Angle the brackets in
place on the rail (diagram 4).
– Lock the bracket on the rail by turning the tabs to the left and pressing to lock (diagram
5).
2.
Place the blind in the chosen place.
– Check that the blind is horizontal and correctly positioned sideways.
3.
Mark out the position for the bracket on the wall/ceiling with a pencil. The brackets can be
mounted on a wall or ceiling (diagram 6).
4.
Release the brackets from the blind.
– Turn the tabs to the right and twist loose the blind.
5.
Place one bracket on its markings and mark the screw holes with a pencil.
6.
Screw on the bracket.
Summary of Contents for Hard Head
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