#102
42 ft. SKELETON
LOG FLAT
In opening the parts package and handling the contents, use great care
to avoid loss or damage of the delicate pieces. The Instruction sheet
should be read thoroughly first, then Individual parts examined and
related to construction notes and Illustrations to better acquaint oneself
with all components and their proper placement on the model, as well as
relationship with each other.
Small amounts of light flashing may be encountered on castings and in most
Instances this can be removed with a knife blade, or a file. Note particularly,
openings on the underside of the log bunks, these may be closed off with
paper-thin flash that can be poked away with a sharp probe. Also one
opening will be found near the end of each bunk side, through which stake
chains must pass, these and the stakes as well may require cleaning out.
The dirt trap and its piping must be detached from the air tank casting
and relocated at right angles to Its original position as shown In Fig. 6.
Because this is a delicate casting, It Is suggested the part be detached
before an attempt Is made to remove flash from the dirt trap itself. Note,
the trap and piping does not fasten to the triple valve again until later
during the brake rigging assembly. The brake wheel comes attached to
a casting sprue which will serve as a handle while scraping away flash
from the outer rim area.
When the wheels clean, the sprue piece can be removed as Indicated In
Fig. 1. During this operation be extremely careful to grip the wheel properly
with pliers jaws while gently applying finger pressure In an upward and
downward motion on the sprue, otherwise It Is possible to break away a
portion of the wheel rim.
K-2 BRAKE SYSTEM:
Installation of the brake system is next and since the die cast body Is pre-
cast to accept all component parts, everything will go together with little
difficulty. One should note however, the two end castings are not identical,
one has a mounting plate to accommodate the brake wheel while the other
does not. Before proceeding further carefully remove all flash from both
end castings and center sills. The casting supporting the brake wheel fits
at the “B” end, thus correctly placing it In a position to accept the brake
chain from the rod affixed to brake lever “C” (Fig. 6). A few moments spent
studying Figs. 7 and 17 should make this clear. The exploded assembly
view (Fig. 7) shows all brake components clearly identified by letter to relate
to the following Instructions. Begin by placing air tank “A” and lever “C” on
the car body at one time. Cement, with Super glue
®
or Its equivalent, their
mounting studs Into the proper holes in the car body and at the same time,
cement the correct clevis projection of lever “C” into the end of the air tank.
If you fit these parts together one time on a trial basis without cement, you
will gain a much better idea of how to go about the operation. Next, lever
“D” Is placed, the two mounting studs on Its bracket to be entered into the
holes of the car body and secured with cement. At the same time this part
is being positioned, insert rod “F” into the correct clevis openings of lever
“C” and “D”. Using cement to form a bond.
The dirt trap (E) has been briefly mentioned above, note in Fig. 6. How it
is to be detached from its original position as It comes joined to the trio
pie valve at one end of the air tank. It is to be swung around to form a right
angle with the air tank as shown in Fig. 6. Note also, air line pipe “J” must
pass through the opening of the “tee” on the end of the dirt trap assembly
“E”. Since pipe “J” has been pre-bent, it will be necessary, using pliers,
to reduce the angle of the sharp bend at one end sufficient to allow It to
pass through the dirt trap pipe “tee”. When this has been done, restore
this bend in pipe “J” to its former angle for installation on the car. Slide dirt
trap assembly along pipe “J” so it is correctly positioned to cement the free
end of piping into the opening of elbow on the triple valve mounted atop
one end of air tank “A” (see Figs. 6 & 7).
Next, install one of the rods marked “H” by inserting the straight end into
the opening of outer clevis on long end of lever “C” and cement it there.
The bent end of this rod cements into car body. Remaining rod “H” cements
at the other end of the car, its straight end cementing into the opening of
clevis at outer end of lever “D”. Brake rod “G” will be Installed later when It
Is possible to pass it through the log bunk where it belongs. Three staples
designated “ST” fit into pre-cast holes as they are placed, two over lever
“C” and one over lever “D”, then cement into holes.
Now before proceeding further, flatten the head of the short 1/2” common
pin with a pair of pliers. Thread it through the end link of a 5/8” piece of
chain as shown In Fig. 2. Next push pin all the way into hole on the inside
and out through the brake ratchet. Put brake wheel on exposed pin end
and cut off pin leaving about 1/16” protruding beyond brake wheel. With
pliers, pinch pin as close to brake wheel as possible to flare it, cut off just
enough of the flat so the wheel will not come off. See Fig. 2 and Fig. 3.
Assemble the end castings onto the center sill by sliding them together
and tilting them up and then down so round end casting bosses fit into
end holes of center sill. This must be done before any of the couplers and
draft gear are Installed. See Fig. 8.
COUPLERS:
Make sure the coupler pocket is clear of any flash. Apply a little Kadee
®
#231 “Greas-em”, burnishing and polishing will greatly reduce friction of
working parts and improve coupler performance. Assemble the coupler as
shown in Fig. 5. Add #231 “Greas-em” to Inside of coupler unit and work
coupler back and forth. Be sure coupler consistently snaps back to center
position before continuing further. Slide assembled draft gear unit into the
end casting as shown in Fig. 9 and secure it there with escutcheon pin
“R” which presses through hole at rear of
draft gear box and into the metal post on
the underside of end casting, which now
secures the draft gear and end casting to
the center sill (see Fig. 9). Just be sure
the casting with the brake wheel mounting
plate is on the “B” end of car as related to
brake rigging layout in Fig. 7. Use our #205
or #206 coupler height gauge to check for
the correct height and trip pin clearance.
The HO-Scale N.M.R.A. standard for
coupler height is the centerline of coupler
at 25/64” (.390”). Use our #237 Trip
Pin Pliers to carefully adjust the trip pin
clearance if necessary.
press up and
down carefully
remove flash
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 7
Fig. 6
E
J
H
ST
J
G
H
F
F
D
A
C
G
H
Fig. 5
two required
“B” end
detach here
cement
here
clean flash
dirt trap
air tank
