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Summary of Contents for 385.15218400

Page 1: ...SERVICE MANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385 15218400 OCTOBER 2003 ...

Page 2: ...ALIGNMENT NEEDLE SWING NEEDLE DROP CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK NO l CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK NO 2 FEED DOG HEIGHT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT NEEDLE TIMING TO SHUTTLE DISTORTED PATTERN BUTTONHOLE FEED BALANCE BARTACK FEED OF BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION DISENGAGEMENT OF CAM FOLLOWER MOTOR BELT TENSION TO REPLACE NEEDLE THREADER PLATE WIRING OILING SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED 1 2 3 4 5 7 8 9 10 1...

Page 3: ...obbin Winding Spindle J Bobbin Winding Stopper Top thread tension Control _ Face Plate Stitch Length Control Stitch Width Control _rDial Thread Cutter__ Needle Threader Extension Table Accessory storage box Presser Foot Holder_ Carrying Handle J J Presser Footj Needle Clamp Needle Handwheel Buttonhole Lever Power Switch Machine _ocket Free Arm ...

Page 4: ...T CLICKS 4 HOLDING THE END OF THREAD START MACHINE WHEN BOBBIN IS SLIGHTLY FILLED SNIP OFF THE END OF THREAD 5 WIND THREAD UNTIL BOBBIN STOPS REMOVE BOBBIN 6 PUSH THE HANDWHEEL TO THE LEFT A Place bobbin in bobbin case making 2 sure thread feeds clockwise and is coming from bobbin as shown Pull thread through slot of case as shown S 3 Pull thread under tension spring and through the opening as sho...

Page 5: ... THREAD COMING FROM THE BACK OF THE SPOOL 1 DRAW THREAD THROUGH THE THREAD GUIDE 2 HOLDING THREAD TAUT WITH RIGHT HAND DRAW THREAD DOWN INTO THE TENSION AREA AND THEN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER 3 FIRMLY DRAW THREAD UP AND THROUGH THE TAKE UP LEVER FROM RIGHT TO LEFT 4 DRAW THE THREAD DOWN AND SLIP IT INTO THE LOWER THREAD GUIDE 5 DRAW THREAD DOWN AGAIN AND SLIP IT INTO THE NEEDLE BAR THREAD GU...

Page 6: ...TH CONTROLS SETTING MARK PATTERN _ _ _ i I BH t 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 _ BH 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 910 s STRETCH _ _ 8 V L 10_1_2_3 4 SETTING MARK S_TCH LENGTH 4 2 0 I I I I STRETCH _ _ S V L10_1_2_314 TO SELECT STRETCH STITCHES SET THIS CONTROLATVPOSITION _0 1 2 3 4 5_ _0 1 2345_ _ Setting Mark 4 ...

Page 7: ...PROPRIATE NEEDLE TO HOOK CLEARANCE 1 INCORRECT F D HEIGHT 2 THREAD ON BOTTOM SIDE OF FABRIC IS JAMMED UP 3 FEED DOG TEETH ARE WORN INSERT THE NEEDLE PROPERLY CHANGE THE NEEDLE RETHREAD USE THE RECOMMENDED SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD USE A 11 BLUE TIP NEEDLE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TIMING TO SHUTTLE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE...

Page 8: ...ENT OR WORN 3 NEEDLE IS HITTING THE HOOK RACE 4 5 THE FABRIC MOVES WHILE THE NEEDLE IS PIERCING IT OR THE NEEDLE ZIGZAGS WHILE IN FABRIC FABRIC IS BEING PULLED TOO STRONGLY WHILE SEWING HOW TO FIX START WITH MEDIUM SPEED USE THE PROPER THREAD PATH REPLACE WITH A NEW NEEDLE ADJUST UPPER THREAD TENSION CORRECTLY USE APPROPRIATE NEEDLE AND THREAD FOR FABRIC IN USE CHANGE THE NEEDLE REPAIR THE HOLE OR...

Page 9: ...G SYNCHRONIZATION 2 INAPPROPRIATE DISENGAGEMENT OFCAM FOLLOWER 3 UPPERTHREADTENSlON IS TOO STRONG 4 INAPPROPRIATE FEED BALANCE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOt_ NO 2 ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT MOTOR BELT TENSION ELIMINATETHELOOSENESS OIL ALL MOVING PARTS SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SWING SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISENGAGEMENT OFCAM FOLLOWER A...

Page 10: ...SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 SERVICE ACCESS FACE COVER s B 1 OPEN THE FACE COVER A 2 REMOVE THE SCREWS B 3 TAKE THE FACE COVER A OFF 8 ...

Page 11: ...E G CAP FRONT COVER f D H J TO REMOVE 1 LOOSEN THE SET SCREWS A B AND C AND THEN REMOVE THE FRONT COVER BY REMOVING THE SET SCREWS D E F G H I AND J NOTE UNHOOK THE TAB L FROM THE REAR COVER WHEN REMOVING THE FRONT COVER TO ATTACH 2 FOLLOW THE ABOVE PROCEDURE IN REVERSE 9 ...

Page 12: ...E THE FACE COVER AND FRONT COVER SEE PAGE 8 9 2 LOOSEN THE SETSCREWS A B AND C AND REMOVE SETSCREWS D E AND F 3 PULL UP THE SPOOL PINS REMOVE THE MACHINE SOCKET REMOVE THE REAR COVER CLEARING THE PRESSER FOOT LIFTER FROM THE SLIT ON THE COVER TO ATTACH 4 FOLLOW THE ABOVE PROCEDURE IN REVRSE lO ...

Page 13: ...TING THE TENSION DIAL AT 3 MAKE SURE THE FOOT SHOULD BE LOWERED IF THE TENSION IS OUT OF THE STANDARD RANGE ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE FRONT COVER UNIT SEE PAGE 9 2 TURN THE ADJUSTING NUT C IN THE DIRECTION OF D WHEN THE UPPER THREAD TENSION IS TOO TIGHT TURN THE ADJUSTING NUT C IN THE DIRECTION OF E WHEN THE UPPER THREAD TENSION IS TOO LOOSE 3 ATTACH THE FRONT COVER UN...

Page 14: ...THE BOBBIN THREAD TENSION SHOULD BE 45 55g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD IN THE DIRECTION OF B IF THE TENSION IS OUT OF THE RANGE ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW C IN THE DIRECTION OF D WHEN THE BOBBIN THREAD TENSION IS TOO TIGHT 2 TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW C IN THE DIRECTION OF E WHEN THE BOBBIN THREAD TENSION IS TOO LOOSE B t COTTON THREAD 50 12 ...

Page 15: ...REMOVE THE SCREW B AND TAKE THE LAMP SOCKET OFF 2 RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER AND LOOSEN THE SCREW C ON THE PRESSER BAR HOLDER ADJUST THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE PRESSER FOOT D AND THE NEEDLE PLATE E TO 6 0MM 0 24 3 TIGHTEN THE SCREW C SECURELY 4 TIGHTEN THE SCREW B TO SECURE THE LAMP SOCKET NOTE WHENYOU TIGHTEN THE SCREW B MAKE SURETHAT BOTH SIDES OFTHE PRESSER FOOT ARE PARALLEL TO THE FEED DOG SLO...

Page 16: ...H MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH AND REMOVE THE FRONT COVER SEE PAGE 9 2 LOOSEN TWO SET SCREWS 3 ADJUST THE NEEDLE SWING BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL WHILE HOLDING THE WORM SO AS NOT TO ROTATE IT UNTIL THE NEEDLE SWING STARTS AT 2 3MM ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AFTER THE NEEDLE HAS COME OUT OF THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE NEEDLE HOLE 4 TIGHTEN TWO SET SCREWS 5 MOUNT THE FRONT COVER NOTE AFTER ADJUSTING THE NEEDLE SWING CHECK...

Page 17: ...E PLATE AND THE NEEDLE DROP POSITIONS SHOULD BE EQUAL IF NOT MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENTPROCEDURE 1 OPEN THE FACE PLATE 2 SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH 3 LOOSEN THE SET SCREW 4 TURN THE ECCENTRIC PIN TO ADJUST THE NEEDLE DROP 5 TIGHTEN THE SET SCREW NOTE CHECK THE HOOK TIMING AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT SET SCREW ECCENTRIC PIN BOTH CLEARANCE SHOULD BE EQUAL 15 ...

Page 18: ...ARANCE BETWEEN 0 05 TO 0 10MM WHEN CLEARANCE IS TOO WIDE MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER TO DIRECTION B WHEN CLEARANCE IS TOO NARROW MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER TO DIRECTION C NOTE AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT CHECK IF THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND NEEDLE PLATE IS MORE THAN 0 15MM AS SHOWN IN FIGURE D IF NOT ADJUST THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE BY USING METHOD OF ADJUSTMENT NO 2 IN PAG...

Page 19: ...R FORWARD OR BACKWARD TO ADJUST THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE NEEDLE AND THE SHUTTLE RACE IN THE RANGE OF 0 05 0 10MM 5 SET THE PATTERN SELECT DIAL AT _ TURN THE BALANCE WHEEL TO CHECK IF THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE NEEDLE AND INNER EDGES OF THE SHUTTLE RACE SPRING AT THE LEFT AND RIGHT NEEDLE DROPS ARE EQUAL IF NOT MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT BY TURNING THE SHUTTLE RACE UNIT 6 TIGHTEN THE TWO SHUTTLE RACE SET S...

Page 20: ...N THE NEEDLE PLATE 3 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU BY HAND AND CHECK THE FEED DOG HEIGHT REFER TO CHART BELOW ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER 2 LOOSEN THE SCREW B AND TURN THE ECCENTRIC PIN C IN EITHER DIRECTION TO ADUST THE FEED DOG HEIGHT AS REQUIRED 3 TIGHTEN THE SCREW B SECURELY FACE A 1 25MM NOT MOVING NOT MOVING MOVING GAUG FACE B RED 1 00MM MOVING NOT MOVING MOVING EFEED DOG H...

Page 21: ...EEL TOWARD YOU BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION 5 THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN 68368 A SHOULD BE IN BETWEEN THE TWO HORIZONTAL LINES ENGRAVED ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68366 B ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 LOOSEN THE SCREW C OF THE NEEDLE BAR HOLDER D 2 MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR E UP OR DOWN BY HAND UNTIL THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN 68368 A COMES IN BETWEEN THE TWO HORIZONTAL PARALLEL LINES ENG...

Page 22: ... THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION 5 THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN 68368 A SHOULD BE IN BETWEEN THE TWO VERTICAL LINES ENGRAVED ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68366 B ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE BELT COVER AND THE FRONT COVER 2 LOOSEN THE SCREWS C AND D 3 ROTATE THE SHUTTLE DRIVER UNTIL THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN 68368 A COMES IN BETWEEN THE TWO VERTICAL LINES ENGRAVED ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE...

Page 23: ...WEEN FORWARD FEEDING AND BACKWARD FEEDING DURING STRETCH STITCH PATTERNS MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE CAP 2 SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR CONTROL AT ciiiD AND THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL AT 3 TURN THE STRETCH STITCH ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF C WHEN A B OR IN THE DIRECTION OF D WHEN A B 4 MOUNT THE CAP CAP C _ D 0 X X A B A B A B J NOTCH J STRECH STITCH ADJUSTI...

Page 24: ... SIDE ROW BACKWARD FEEDING AGAINST 10 STITCHES IN THE LEFT SIDE ROW FORWARD FEEDING IS CONSIDERED ACCEPTABLE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 CONFIRM THE STITCHES BY SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND REMOVE THE CAP 2 TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF C IN CASE OF A RIGHT STITCHES ARE ROUGH OR IN THE DIRECTION OF D IN CASE OF B LEFT STITCHES ARE ROUGH 3 MOUNT THE CAP A B x 0 x FORWARD FEEDING J BACKWARD FEED...

Page 25: ...ENTPROCEDURE 1 SETTHEPATTERNSELECTORCONTROLAT B AND THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL AT 4 2 REMOVE THE FRONT COVER SEE PAGE 9 3 PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER UNDER THE FOOT AND TURN THE HANDWHEEL IF THE PAPER IS FEED FORWARD TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF C IF THE PAPER IS FEED BACKWARD TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF D 4 MOUNT THE FRONT COVER FORWARD FEEDING BACKWARD FEEDING _ c ADJU...

Page 26: ... BE OBTAINED THEN CHECK AND ADJUST AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 OPEN THE FACE COVER 2 TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF A IF THE BUTTONHOLE STITCH LENGTH IS LONGER THAN THE STANDARD OR IN THE DIRECTION OF B IF THE BUTTONHOLE STITCH LENGTH IS SHORTER THAN THE STANDARD STANDARD f ABOUT3MM J ADJUSTING SCRE_ q BUTTONHOLE __ LEVER _ _ q _ _ _A_ I 7 __ _ 4 _ _B_ _ _ 4 _ j 24 ...

Page 27: ...E FRONT COVER SEE PAGE 9 3 PUT THE CAM FOLLOWER TO THE ZIGZAG CAM STRAIGHT CAM AND ALSO PUT THE CAM FOLLOWER RELEASING ARM TO THE PATTERN SELECT CAM 4 LOOSEN THE SETSCREW 5 MOVE ADJUSTING PLATE IN THE DIRECTION OF ARROW UNTIL TO TOUCH TO THE RELEASING ARM AND TIGHTEN SETSCREW NOTE AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT CHECK THAT THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG CAM AND THE CAM FOLLOWER IS 0 3MM WHEN PUTTING THE C...

Page 28: ... TO OVERLOAD IF THE TENSION IS TOO LOOSE IT CAN CAUSE THE BELT TEETH ON THE MOTOR PULLEY TO JUMP 2 THE CORRECT MOTOR BELT TENSION IS WHEN THE DEFLECTION OF MOTOR BELT IS ABOUT 7MM 0 28 9MM 0 36 WHEN PUSHING THE MOTOR BELT BY FINGER WITH A 300 GRAM LOAD ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE REAR COVER SEE PAGE 10 2 LOOSEN THE SCREWS A AND B 3 MOVE THE MOTOR UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE DEFLECTION ABOUT 7MM...

Page 29: ...IGHLY OUT OF ALIGNMENT LOOSEN THE SETSCREW D AND ADJUST THE POSITION AS SHOWN IN FIG 2 IF THE ABOVE WAY OF ADJUTMENT IS NOT APPLICABLE MAKE THE ADJUSTMENT AS SHOWN IN FIG 3 AS FOLLOWS 1 OPEN THE FACE PLATE 2 WHEN THE THREADER PLATE IS TOO HIGH LOOSEN THE HAXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW E AND LOWER THE POSITIONING PLATE F TOO LOW LOOSEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW E AND RAISE THE POSITIONING PLATE F 3 TIGHTE...

Page 30: ...SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 WIRING 1 WIRING FOR MACHINE SOCKET UNIT RIDGE _ S M _L RIDGE M MOTOR L LAMP 2 WIRING DIAGRAM FOOTCONTROL O 7C_ MOTOR ATTACHMENTCAP L J LAMP SOCKET f MOTOR 28 ...

Page 31: ...IL AT THE POINTS A B C D E INDICATED BY BLACK ARROWS GREASE WHITE GREASE IS RECOMMENDED FOR USE ON GEARS AND CAM SURFACES IT IS AN IMPROVED GREASE AND IT CAN BE USED ON THE METAL AND PLASTIC PARTS WHICH POINTS ARE INDICATED BY THE WHITE ARROWS F G H HOW TO ORDER PART_ DESCRIPTION SEWING MACHINE OIL WHITE GREASE EM 40M ORDER THROUGH YOUR RPDC IN THE USUAL MANNER DIVISION 20 SOURCE 158 _ _ _ __ _ _ ...

Page 32: ...SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED _REW DRIVER FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE 68367 _W DRIVER TEST PIN 68368 ALIEN WRENCH RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68366 3O ...

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