Lanier R/C Corsair ARF, Manual

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wire attaches to the throttle servo arm 
with an e-z connector. 

5)  Slide the horizontal stabilizer in the slot 

at the rear of the fuselage.  Using your 
ruler or measuring tape, center the 
stabilizer in the opening.  Attach the 
wing to the fuselage and block up the 
airplane with the wingtips equal 
distance from the table.  Measure the 
stabilizer at the tips.  It should measure 
the same from each tip to the table.  If 
the tips are not equal distance from the 
table ,  use sandpaper to sand down the 
stab mounting platform until the proper 
alignment is achieved.  Now measure 
from the tip of the stab to the trailing 
edge of the wing and adjust the stab 
too, so the tips are equal distance from 
the trailing edge.  Now mark the 
stabilizer where it and the fuselage meet 
on both side, top and bottom.  Now 
remove the covering inside of lines. 
(Note:  Don’t remove the covering up to 
the lines.  Stay approximately 
1/16”inside the lines.) 

See the 

illustration in the back of the manual

.

Now glue the stab in place using 30-
minute epoxy, rechecking all your 
measurements before the epoxy sets.  
Set aside to dry.  When the epoxy has 
cured, run a bead of medium CA as filler 
in the gap between the stab and the 
fuselage side.  Now add the elevator 
halves, using the same method used for 
hinging the ailerons to the wings. 

6)  Now install the hinges in the rudder and 

trail fit it to the fin. When you are 
satisfied with the fit, remove the rudder 
and apply 5-minute epoxy to the hole 
and slot for the tailwheel wire.  When 
the epoxy is dry, install the rudder using 
same method used for hinging the other 
surfaces.  Keep the gap as close as 
possible while letting the rudder turn 
freely. 

7)  Now slide the tailwheel bracket on the 

tailwheel wire up to the fuselage.  Using 
the bracket as a guide, drill the mounting 
holes through the mount.  Secure the 
bracket with the screws provided.  
Install the tailwheel and collar, making 
sure the wheel turns freely. 

See the 

drawing in the back of the manual.

8)  Locate the following hardware: 4 nylon 

clevises, 4 brass collets, 4 threaded 
couplers, 2 control brackets, 2 control 
horns, 1 threaded rod, 2 nuts, 2 washers, 
and 2 hardwood blocks. Mark & drill a 
1/8” hole through the rudder for the 
threaded rod, in line with the exit holes 
for the rudder cable. Use the nuts and 
washers to secure the threaded rod. 
Thread a horn bracket on each side of 
the rod. Using a pair of wire cutters, cut 
the cable into two equal lengths.  Install 
a coupler at one end of each cable. 

9)  Insert the cable through the brass collet, 

then into the coupler, and back into the 
brass collet. Loop it around and back 
through the collet again. Squeeze the 
collet with pliers and either solder the 
assembly with silver solder or apply a 
drop or two of thin CA glue.  

10)  Thread a clevis halfway onto each 

coupler and attach the clevises to the 
control horns and drop the other end of 
the cable into the fuselage theough t he 
cable exit holes.  

11)  Hold the rudder in it’s neutral position 

using masking tape. Center the rudder 
servo arm. Glue the two hardwood 
blocks to the servo tray using medium 
CA, to elevate the rudder servo. This 
will prevent the rudder servo from 
interfering with the other servo arms. 
Attach the other two clevises with 
couplers to each end of the rudder servo 
arm.  

12)  Now attach the cables to the couplers in 

the same manner described above. The 
tension should be equal on each side 
and the rudder should move freely. 

13)  Next comes the elevator pushrod.  

Mount the two control horns on the