TS, TR, TX engines workshop manual
47
2.50 The Oil Dipstick
Nylon handled dipsticks have been fitted to all TR and TX
engines and were introduced on TS engines from:
35 01426 TS1
35 06750 TS2
35 05365 TS3
T SERIES ENGINES WORKSHOP MANUAL
51
flywheel using a 65mm socket (317-50052).
4.Remove the tool.
5.Fit the flywheel locking tool.
6.Re-torque the flywheel screw or nut to
474.5Nm (350.0lbf ft).
2.49 THE OIL FILTER
The standard full flow oil filter is a spin-on cartridge
type located on the side of the crankcase and
remote mounted oil filters are available for all
engines.
Changing the Oil Filter
A
readily available strap wrench is required to
remove the filter from the engine but must not be
used to fit a replacement.
1.Using a suitable strap wrench, unscrew and
remove the old filter.
2.Thoroughly clean the crankcase filter housing
face.
3.Apply a small amount of clean engine oil to the oil
filter sealing joint.
4
.Screw on the new oil filter, by hand, until the
sealing joint is just touching the crankcase and
tighten a further half turn.
Figure 2.49.1 Changing the Oil Filter
5.Run the engine and check for any oil leaks.
6.Stop the engine, allow the oil to settle and check
the level on the dipstick.
7.Add more oil if necessary.
2.50 THE OIL DIPSTICK
Nylon handled dipsticks have been fitted to all
TR and
TX
engines and were introduced on TS
engines from:
35 01426 TS1
35 06750 TS2
35 05365 TS3
Figure 2.50.1 Dipsticks:
A - Early TS
B - Later TS, all TR and TX
CAUTION
The new type dipsticks are not
fi
tted with a
crankcase adapter and an existing adapter must
not be removed to allow the new type of dipstick
to be used as the adapter bore has no lead-in
chamfer. If the adapter is removed damage to the
'0' ring may lead to loss of crankcase vacuum
and ingress of dirt.
2.51 THE OIL SUMP
The sump is manufactured from cast iron and is
secured to the crankcase by bolts and spring
washers; the four corner bolts are longer than the
remainder.
The integral engine mounting bolt drillings are
located on each corner of the sump.
An oil strainer is fitted inside the sump and a drilling
in the casting carries oil from the sump through the
strainer to the oil pump.
An anti-surge plate, fitted to the oil strainer lays
alongside the crankcase web when the sump is
fitted.
Draining and Filling the Sump
1.If possible run the engine immediately before
draining the oil.
2.Place a suitable container under the drain plug.
3.Remove the plug.
Genuine Lister Petter Power Systems approved
filters should be used as these have the correct
bypass valve pressure to match the self regulating
oil pump, high temperature joints, adequate filter
paper characteristics and a rigid case. The fact
that a proprietary filter may have the same external
dimensions and thread as the genuine one is no
guarantee that it will not fail in service.
Figure 2.50.1 Dipsticks:
A - Early TS; B - Later TS, all TR and TX
CAPTION
The new type dipsticks are not fitted with a crankcase
adapter and an existing adapter must not be removed to
allow the new type of dipstick to be used as the adapter
bore has no lead-in chamfer. If the adapter is removed
damage to the '0' ring may lead to loss of crankcase
vacuum and ingress of dirt.
2.51 The Oil Sump
The sump is manufactured from cast iron and is secured to the
crankcase by bolts and spring washers; the four corner bolts
are longer than the remainder.
The integral engine mounting bolt drillings are located on each
corner of the sump.
An oil strainer is fitted inside the sump and a drilling in the
casting carries oil from the sump through the strainer to the
oil pump.
An anti-surge plate, fitted to the oil strainer lays alongside the
crankcase web when the sump is fitted.
Draining and Filling the Sump
1. If possible run the engine immediately before draining the oil.
2. Place a suitable container under the drain plug.
3. Remove the plug.
T SERIES ENGINES WORKSHOP MANUAL
52
Figure 2.51.1 Oil Filler and Drain
4.Clean and coat the threads of the drain plug with
Hylomar PL32/M or Three Bond 1110B.
5.Replace the drain plug taking care not to
overtighten it.
6.Fill the sump to the correct level with the correct
grade and type of lubricating oil.
7.Start the engine and run it for a few minutes to
circulate the oil and check the drain plug does
not leak.
8.Stop the engine and allow time for the oil to settle
and re-check the level on the dipstick.
9.Add more oil if necessary.
Oil Sump Capacity
litres
pints
US qts
TS/TR1
2.7
4.7
2.8
TS/TR/TX2
4.0
7.0
4.2
TS/TR/TX3
6.0
10.5
6.3
Removing the Sump
1.Remove the drain plug from the sump and drain
the oil into a suitable receptacle.
2.Remove the oil level dipstick.
A polypropylene handled dipstick is currently
fitted; refer to "02.50 The Oil Dipstick".
3.Stand the engine on its flywheel using a suitable
piece of wood or similar material on which to rest
the flywheel but not the fanshroud; this will enable
the engine to be rotated and ease subsequent
dismantling.
4.Remove the sump bolts and spring washers
noting that two bolts pass through the fanshroud
into the sump.
As the bolts are removed from the sump the oil
pump will move it away from the crankcase.
5.Remove the sump taking care not to damage the
oil pump.
Replacing the Oil Sump
1.Using a new joint, replace the sump with the
recess corner adjacent to the oil pump.
2.Replace the four long corner bolts finger tight.
3.Replace the two bolts through the fanshroud into
the sump and torque them to 43.5Nm (32.0lbf ft).
4.Replace and torque the remaining sump bolts to
27.0Nm (20.0lbf ft).
5.Coat the threads of the drain plug with Hylomar
PL32/M or Three Bond 1110B and refit.
6.Return the engine to its normal position.
7.Fill the sump to the correct level with the correct
grade and type of lubricating oil.
8.Start the engine and run it for a few minutes to
circulate the oil and check the drain plug does
not leak.
9.Stop the engine and allow time for the oil to settle
and re-check the level on the dipstick.
10.Add more oil if necessary.
CAUTION
If the procedure in items 2. and 4. is not correctly
carried out there is a possibility of distorting
the fanshroud resulting in excessive flywheel to
fanshroud run-out. The tolerances for bore and
face run-out must be within 0.25mm (0.010in) TIR.
2.52 THE OIL STRAINER AND PUMP
The Oil Strainer
The engines are fitted with a coarse lubricating oil
strainer on the suction side of the oil pump; access
to the strainer is gained by removing the sump.
Figure 2.52.1 Oil Strainer
Care must be taken to ensure that rags are not
used to wipe the inside of the crankcase during
overhauls to eliminate the possibility of fluff entering
the strainer and causing a restricted oil flow.
Note
- Early TS Engines:
On re-assembly take care to replace the
distance piece under the top plate and ensure
that the anti-surge plate on the strainer is
parallel to the crankcase web.
Figure 2.51.1 Oil Filler and Drain
4. Clean and coat the threads of the drain plug with Hylomar
PL32/M or Three Bond 1110B.
5. Replace the drain plug taking care not to overtighten it.
6. Fill the sump to the correct level with the correct grade and
type of lubricating oil.
7. Start the engine and run it for a few minutes to circulate the
oil and check the drain plug does not leak.
8. Stop the engine and allow time for the oil to settle and re-
check the level on the dipstick.
9. Add more oil if necessary.
Oil Sump Capacity
litres
pints
US qts
TS/TR1
2.7
4.7
2.8
TS/TR/TX2
4.0
7.0
4.2
TS/TR/TX3
6.0
10.5
6.3
Removing the Sump
1. Remove the drain plug from the sump and drain the oil into
a suitable receptacle.
2. Remove the oil level dipstick.
A polypropylene handled dipstick is currently fitted; refer to
"2.50 The Oil Dipstick".
3. Stand the engine on its flywheel using a suitable piece of
wood or similar material on which to rest the flywheel but
not the fanshroud; this will enable the engine to be rotated
and ease subsequent dismantling.
4. Remove the sump bolts and spring washers noting that two
bolts pass through the fanshroud into the sump.
As the bolts are removed from the sump the oil pump will
move it away from the crankcase.
5. Remove the sump taking care not to damage the oil pump.
Replacing the Oil Sump
1. Using a new joint, replace the sump with the recess corner
adjacent to the oil pump.
2. Replace the four long corner bolts finger tight.
3. Replace the two bolts through the fanshroud into the sump
and torque them to 43.5 Nm (32.0 lbf ft).
Summary of Contents for TS/TR1
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