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CooLift
®
REPLACING CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
TOOLS NEEDED: #2 AND #3 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER, 7/16” WRENCHES, 1/2” WRENCHES,
3/16 ALLEN WRENCH, 5/16 ALLEN WRENCH, BLUE THREAD LOCKER
1)
Place the CooLift on a level flooring surface with the holding brake engaged. Raise deck completely.
Turn
off main power switch.
Disconnect the batteries.
2) Remove the deck and the front bottom pan.
3) Loosen the jam nut on the motor adjustment plate on both sides of the unit. Loosen the four hex head
screws on the LH side motor mount plate and the two hex head screws on the RH motor mount plate.
Turn adjustment screw and slide the motor toward differential slightly to loosen chain.
4) Loosen the four long hex head screws (A) from the clutch mounting plates on each side of the CooLift with
1/2” wrench. Loosen the jam nut on clutch adjustment plate and turn the adjustment screws and slide the
clutch forward slightly to loosen the chain to the differential. Make sure both chains are loose.
5) Loosen the two #10-32 screws and lock nuts found on the clutch anti-rotation bracket.
6) Remove clevis and cotter pins (B, C) securing the clutch arm to the anti-rotation bracket.
7)
Remove the master link from both chains, and remove both chains (motor to clutch; clutch to differential).
8) Unplug clutch wiring harness from the clutch.
9) Remove the four screws (A) from the clutch adjustment plate on both sides of the CooLift. Be careful so
that the lock nuts nested inside the square clutch bearing plates (D, E) are not lost.
10) Lift the clutch (F) out of the CooLift taking care to constrain the clutch shaft bearing mount plates (which
are not fixed) on both sides of the clutch. Place the bearing mount plates on the new clutch.
11) Place the lock nuts back into the clutch bearing plate if they have fallen out - use tape on the inside of the
bracket to keep them in place.
12) Place new clutch/mount plate assembly into the unit.
13) Place adjustment plates on the outside of the CooLift frame - secure to the lock nuts in the clutch bearing
plate with four screws, washers and lock nuts. Do this for both sides. Finger tighten only for now.
14) Rotate the clutch to align the clutch arm with the anti-rotation bracket and secure with cotter and clevis
pins.
15)
Replace chain between the clutch and differential and secure with master link.
16) Turn the adjustment screws in the clutch adjustment plate so that there is 1/4” play in the chain between
the clutch and differential and they are the same distance apart on both sides from the differential mount
block. Tighten jam nuts on both sides. Fully tighten the hex head cap screws in the clutch and motor
adjustment plates.
17) Adjust the tension of the anti-rotation bracket to prevent clutch arm rotation. Tighten the #10-32 screws in
the anti-rotation bracket. Plug the wiring harness into the clutch.
18) Replace the chain between the clutch and propulsion motor and secure with master link.
19) Turn the adjustment screws on the motor adjustment plates until the chain has 1/4” play between the two
sprockets. Make sure that the motor adjustment plates are the same distance apart on both sides (see
page 27).
NOTE 1: Uneven tensioning of the chain between the clutch and motor will cause alignment issues.
Misalignment will cause: extra noise, chain wear, uneven sprocket wear, potential for the chain to come off
sprocket, and potential failure of the chain and/or sprocket.
NOTE 2: Over-tensioning of the chain (even if tensioned evenly on both sides) can also cause issues.
Over-tensioning may cause deflection of the motor output shaft resulting in miss alignment of the chain
(see NOTE 1) and may result in shorter bearing life in the propulsion motor. Over tensioning will cause
the chain to stretch faster, leading to shorter chain and/or sprocket life.
20) Tighten the jam nut on the motor adjustment plate. Fully tighten the four hex head screws on the LH side
motor mount plate and the two hex head screws on the RH motor mount plate.
21) Replace the deck and bottom pan. Plug the clutch into the controller. Reconnect the batteries.
