V12-CE SETUP MANUAL
Next, add the rear spring screws
and nuts to the back of the chassis.
Add a washer between the rear
guide pin and the chassis – this
will stop the pin digging into the
chassis and reduces the risk of it
shaking loose or pulling through
the chassis in a big impact (new
part V9BT does this for you!). At
this point, check that the rear pod is
moves freely, sometimes the hole
in the pod’s base plate where the
pivot pin goes through needs to be
reamed out.
NOTE: this is just the hole in the
base plate itself, NOT the o-ring
and not the hole in the o-ring
holder!
3.A. REAR END
M3 washer under the rear pin – this
will help stop chassis denting.
If you are using large diameter rear
tyres (50-52mm diameter) then a
1.0 - 1.5mm thick washer under the
front pivot ball can be a good idea.
With tyres this size you’ll have to
loosen the rear springs right off to
get 3.5mm ride height. This will
give you a nice wide gap between
the bottom of the rear pod and the
top of the chassis but can, in fact,
bring the bottom of the rear pod
close to horizontal when the car
is sat at ride height. Horizontal is
not good for handling when you
accelerate – run the front of the
pod angled up to be at least 2mm
higher than the rear. For smaller
diameter rears you can remove
washers from under the pod’s ball
joint, or use none at all.
3.B. REAR END
Approx 1.5mm clearance be-
tween pod and chassis when the
car is resting on its wheels.
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