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V12-CE SETUP MANUAL

Official Mardave bumper plates will 

be released soon.  Until they are, 

cut a 45mm x 125mm rectangle 

of 3mm nylon sheet, round off the 

front corners and mount it to the 

chassis using the two holes usually 

used for the front body posts.  Drill 

another pair of holes in the bumper 

plate, just in front of the edge of 

the chassis, and mount the body 

posts through these.  This gives the 

option to position the posts further 

forward for better support of the 

front of the shell, and body posts 

could spaced from side to side to 

avoid any awkward moldings in the 

shell.   Lastly, cut and shape some 

15mm deep foam, punched holes 

in this to go over the body posts, 

and it is job done.

8. FRONT BUMPER

It can be worthwhile to have differ-

ent bumpers to fit different shells.

Bumper plate bolted to chassis and 

body posts bolted to the plate.

9. GENERAL SETUP

Any small, light, rear wheel drive 

car is very delicate to set up right 

- small changes have a big effect 

on the way the car drives.  Below 

are some tips that should keep you 

pointing (mostly) in the right direc-

tion.

TRYRES:

 

The most important setup tool are 

your tyres, being on the right tyre 

at the right time is 90% of getting 

your car running well.  UFRA pink 

‘Medium’ (part number V54P) is 

extremely popular as the rear tyre, 

but front tyre compounds can vary 

widely depending on track layout, 

grip level and driver preference.  

The JAP range are good - ‘shore’ 

ratings are a good indication of grip 

with low shores (38’ for example) 

giving more grip than the harder 

52’ shore.  JAP ‘Medium’ fronts are 

actually the softest and offer most 

grip.  Start with a pair of 44’ or 46’ 

fronts, and get a pair of hard JAP 

50s and some softer JAP Medi-

ums so you can test what works 

best for you.

ADDITIVE:

  

  

Be careful.  UFRA Pinks can take 

additive twice a day (maximum) 

with no ill effects, but JAP fronts 

can get over-softened easily.  

Most front tyre compounds pick 

up most of the additive they need 

straight off the track, but some 

can be applied on the inside 1/3 

of each tyre if you need extra 

bite.  Using additive more than 

3 times a week on any tyre will 

over-soften it – the structure of 

the rubber changes and the tyres 

just fall apart.  A good strategy is 

to buy multiple sets of the same 

compound and run each tyre just 

twice each meeting.  Sure, this 

means an increase in expense to 

begin with but they last longer in 

the long run.

Contact have recently released 

a range of tyres for the Mardave 

cars.  Initial testing indicates 

that grip is good, compounds 

take additives well and wear is 

not excessive.  They are more 

expensive at £6 (rears) or £7 

(fronts) but they do come ‘trued 

and glued’ which saves a lot of 

mess.  Their 32’ shore rears and 

either 42’ or 45’ shore fronts are 

popular, but true them down to 

47mm (front) and 50mm (rear_ 

for best results.  Their drawback 

is that the wheel rims have no 

lip on the outer edge – the tire 

is much more prone to chunking 

when you hit something. 

>>

Summary of Contents for V12-CE

Page 1: ...V12 CE SETUP MANUAL V12 CE SETUP MANUAL ...

Page 2: ...one is not 100 essen tial but most drivers agree that you will get a better driving car if you install one 1 PARTS PREPARATION On the CE chassis the wishbones mount directly on the front suspen sion plate They must be mounted flat on the front plate and the other way up from the standard V12 kit Mount them with the lugs facing upwards Do not add shims or washers under the front end of the wishbone...

Page 3: ...lso use a relatively large diameter M3 washer under the each of the screws heads to help spread any loads For the time being screw them all down tight 2 A FRONT END In this case wishbones set to long and wide M3 washer between screw head and plate NOTE do not use less than 2mm spacing on the rear two screws doing so will allow the head of the rear screw holding the wishbone to the front plate to h...

Page 4: ...ck that kingpins and stub axels are straight and replace any defective parts 2 C FRONT END Ride Height of left and right stub axels must be identical Approx 2mm of spacers under the pivot ball to eliminate bump steer This is almost identical to all other V12 kits the only difference is the damper tube Assemble the pod and add the damper tube s ball stud axel bearings and diff Some times the rear p...

Page 5: ...lp stop chassis denting If you are using large diameter rear tyres 50 52mm diameter then a 1 0 1 5mm thick washer under the front pivot ball can be a good idea With tyres this size you ll have to loosen the rear springs right off to get 3 5mm ride height This will give you a nice wide gap between the bottom of the rear pod and the top of the chassis but can in fact bring the bottom of the rear pod...

Page 6: ...e of oil thickness diff tightness and spring rate Always keep the damper tube topped up with oil NOTE There is a difference between the units used to measure oil thickness WT is not the same as CST so 30 000wt oil will be different to 30 000cst oil 30 000wt oil is good on larger faster tracks and down to 12 000wt is good if you need faster weight transfer and quicker steering response on tight tra...

Page 7: ...oltage booster fitted Not eligible for National racing as it has no blinky mode Motors can be any 13 5t from the BRCA EB list there is no restric tion of price any more Popular choices are the HPI Flux Fusion Exceed Team Powers Plutonium The lexan battery tray that comes in the kit will take most varieties of 1s LiPo cell and offers a degree of extra protection too Mounting the cells in the design...

Page 8: ...ing assembled mount the track rods onto the servo saver and then mount that onto the servo itself Position the servo so that the track rods are perpendicular to the centre line of the chassis and this will give you reasonable Ackerman change 6 SERVO Lexan shells are lighter ABS ones can be a little tougher Some good and popular choices are Lotus GT1 most front end down force of the common shells G...

Page 9: ... level and driver preference The JAP range are good shore ratings are a good indication of grip with low shores 38 for example giving more grip than the harder 52 shore JAP Medium fronts are actually the softest and offer most grip Start with a pair of 44 or 46 fronts and get a pair of hard JAP 50s and some softer JAP Medi ums so you can test what works best for you ADDITIVE Be careful UFRA Pinks ...

Page 10: ...ust your ride height and chassis tweak more on that in a moment As the rear tyres wear down you will have to change the spring tension again or change the axel bearing cams if you have the ad justable alloy pod Always leave at least 1 2mm clearance between the bottom of the rear pod and the top of the chassis when the car is resting at its given ride height Less than this and the pod will hit the ...

Page 11: ...both front and rear slide at the same time this is your Grip Balance Point Once you have this point mark it on the chassis and then measure from here to the rear wheel axle line Move any ballast weight about to get the 46 60 split Motor is spaced away from the rear pod in this case about 4mm Use the 1 5mm holes in the front rear of chassis to test for balance MOTOR GEARING Brushless motors are mor...

Page 12: ...nt end of wishbone plate QUICK SETUP FRONT UFRA Pink Medium or Contact 32 shore tires trued to around 49mm diameter edges well rounded again and full width additive Silver Medium springs 20 000 30 000wt damper oil Diff set to medium Motor spaced 4mm away from motor pod 3 2mm ride height Gearing on 1s LiPo 13 5t motor HPI Flux 54 56mm rev THANKS GOES OUT TO JAMES GARRETT JOHN PARKER OTHERS HAPPY RA...

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