1. In new construction without the finished wall in place, posi-
tion the back box against the side of stud allowing the side to
extend beyond the stud so it will be flush with the finished
wall surface. (You must know the thickness of the finished
wall when installing) Secure the box to the stud using two
screws (not included) as shown in Figure 2.
2. Run power supply cable through cable clamp (previously
installed) leaving approximately 6 inches (152 mm) of wire
inside box for connections to heater pigtails. Tighten clamp.
3. Attach power supply ground wire to green ground pigtail lead
using appropriate Listed wire nuts or approved connectors.
Push the wires into upper corner of box out of way.
NOTE:
If power supply is provided by standard non-metallic
sheathed cable (Romex) and the supply voltage is 240 volts (two
power wires), the white wire color must be changed using black
electrical tape to comply with the NEC. White is only allowed for
a Neutral conductor.
4. To secure sides of back box not attached to stud, we recom-
mend one of the following methods:
a. When possible, install an additional long screw (such as a
3” wood screw) through the lower side mounting hole into
the nearest stud (see Figure 2). Use care and do not over-
tighten the screw as this will deform the backbox and
make installation of the heater assembly difficult or impos-
sible. Screw should only be tightened enough to keep
screw in place.
b. Drill a small hole in back box flush with the inside surface
of the finished wall and install a screw (length not critical,
but should be at least 1 inch) see Figure 2.
Installation of Back Box in Finished Wall
1. Locate a stud and carefully mark and cut a hole measuring
12-1/4” (311 mm) wide by 17-3/4” (451 mm) high so one side
of hole is along the edge of a stud – see Figure 2.
2. Run power supply cable through cable clamp (previously
installed) leaving approximately 6 inches (152 mm) of wire
inside box for connections to heater pigtails. Tighten clamp.
3. Fit back box into opening aligning sides of box flush with fin-
ished wall surface and secure box to stud using two screws
(not included) as shown in Figure 2.
NOTE:
Top flange must extend out from finished wall surface
approximately 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) to allow grill to attach.
TIP:
For proper spacing behind the back box upper flange, a
1/8” thick spacer can be used such as a metal yard stick or 1/8”
thick piece of wood, prior to final attachment of the back box to
the stud. This allows enough space for the grille to fit properly
over the back box flanges. Once back box is secured to the stud
the spacer can be removed.
4. Attach power supply ground wire to green ground pigtail lead
using appropriate Listed wire nuts or approved connectors.
Push the wires into upper corner of box out of way.
NOTE:
If power supply is provided by standard non-metallic
cable (Romex) and the supply voltage is 240 volts (two power
wires), the white wire color must be changed using black electri-
cal tape to comply with the NEC. White is only allowed for a
Neutral conductor.
5. Insert one #8, three inch long wood screw (not provided)
through the free side of the back box not mounted to the stud
and secure in the lower mounting hole. This will prevent the
back box from pull out on the unsupported side when
installing the heater assembly. Be careful not to drive the
wood screw more than 3/8” into the stud. Too much would
cause the back box to pull out of alignment. See Figure 2.
Installation of Heater Assembly
NOTE:
Use the screws provided by the factory, removed in
step 1 to install heater assembly to the back box.
1. Carefully position the heater assembly, with fan on top, and
element on bottom into the back box. Guide the flange
through the slot openings in the back box. This will help
guide the heater assembly into position.
NOTE:
The heater assembly must be carefully positioned to
ensure the ribbon connector is not trapped behind the circuit
board.
2. The heater assembly (lower portion) can now be attached to
the back box with 4 screws set aside in step 1
Wiring of Heater
Refer to wiring diagram Figure 3
FOR HEATERS RATED 120 VOLTS:
1. Connect the black (L1) heater pigtail to the black power lead.
2. Connect the white (N) heater pigtail to the white neutral lead.
3. If not already done, connect green heater pigtail to equip-
ment ground wire coming into heater.
4. Push wires up into right hand corner of box out of way.
AN ELECTRICAL SHOCK, FIRE OR WATER DAMAGE
COULD RESULT IF WIRING OR PIPING IS DAMAGED
DURING CUTTING. MAKE SURE ALL WIRING AND PIPING
ARE CLEAR OF AREA BEFORE CUTTING.
POWER SUPPLY VOLTAGE MUST BE THE SAME AS
HEATER VOLTAGE RATING SHOWN ON HEATER NAME-
PLATE. CONNECTING TO A VOLTAGE IN EXCESS OF
NAMEPLATE RATING WILL DAMAGE HEATER AND VOID
WARRANTY.
ALL CONNECTIONS MUST BE WITH APPROPRIATELY
SIZED LISTED WIRE CONNECTORS.
3
Element
Triac
Sensor
Control - Display Screen
Ribbon Cable
Green Ground
Manual Reset
White - 120 V
Red - 240 V
Pilot
Light
B
la
c
k
B
la
c
k
White
Motor
Black
Blue
Red
W
h
it
e
B
la
c
k
B
lu
e
Y
e
ll
o
w
R
e
d
Control-Power Board
G
L/L1
N/L2
N
FANH
FANM
FANL
Figure 3- Wiring Diagram
Summary of Contents for HT1502SSNW
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