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17
through the integral hinge! Move the panels to and fro repeatedly
to ease the hinge. Glue the top spar caps
11.2
in both tail panels.
Fig. 11
10. Installing the control surface horns
Assemble the swivel horns as shown in
Fig. 12
, and glue them
in the appropriate recesses in the tail control surfaces. Note that
the horn holes should face the servo, so that they line up correctly
with the hinge pivot axis.
11. Installing the tail panels
The tail panels
7 + 8
have to be glued to each other in the centre
and to the fuselage tail fairing
14
. Take care here: all the joints
should be neat, accurate and without gaps. The bottom spar
caps
11.1
can now be fitted, as shown in
Fig. 14
.
12. The ballast chamber
“Adequately powered” electric gliders often require tail ballast.
We have a neat solution in our resealable ballast chamber cover
41
, which is secured using the screw
34
.
13. Additional fuselage reinforcements
Glue the bottom fuselage longeron
11.6
to the underside of the
fuselage.
Fig. 16
Glue the top fuselage longeron
11.7
to the top of the fuselage.
Fig. 17
14. V-tail control surface linkages
If you have installed a pair of servos for elevator and rudder
control, you will need to use the two pre-formed pushrods
30
.
Set the servos to centre from the transmitter, and connect the
pre-formed end of the pushrods to the output arms. Shorten the
wire pushrods if necessary, slip the ends through the swivel
connector barrels, and fit the grubscrews to secure them.
Fig. 18
2
nd
variant - elevator only. In this case the wire pushrods
29
are
required: they are installed as shown in
Fig. 19
.
15. Preparing the wings
The first step here is to glue the wing panels
5 + 6
together in the
centre as shown. Ensure that they line up exactly. Any error at this
point will seriously affect the model’s flying characteristics.
Fig. 20
The following preparatory work is necessary before you install
the rectangular carbon fibre wing spars
9 + 10
:
Lay out all the parts where you can reach them easily - the wing,
the spars, adhesive, a cloth - and clear away everything else
which could get in the way.
Since the spars are a very close fit in the wings, they displace
most of the adhesive when pressed into the recess; this causes
the glue to set very quickly. If you make a mistake at this point,
you may not be able to press the spars into position before the
glue sets.
Caution: the spars lie below the wing surface over part of
their length (dihedral). The exposed slots are covered later by
the stickers 16.
This procedure is crucial, and that is why we describe it very
carefully below. Please note that we will not replace spoiled
parts which result from using the wrong procedure!
a. Trial-fit the spars, i.e. press them into their slots ‘dry’ (without
glue).
b. Apply the adhesive (e.g. Elapor cyano) only to the bottom of the
spar slot in the wing.
c. Lay the wing down flat.
d. In one swift process, press the spar into the spar slot as far as
it will go.
e. Immediately wipe off excess glue where it is squeezed out of
the channel.
f. If necessary, flex the wing away from the spar slightly, across
the chord, and apply more glue.
Fig. 21
16. Additional wing reinforcements
The bottom spar cap
11.3
can now be glued to the underside of
the wing: lay the wing down flat with the curved tips extending
over the ends of the workbench before installing it.
Fig. 22
Now turn the wing over and glue the top spar cap
11.4
in the spar
slot. It is a good idea to curve the spars beforehand where they
fit in the wingtip area.
Fig. 23
Twenty diagonal braces
11.9
have to be glued to the top and
bottom of the wing in a ‘herringbone’ pattern; this is a special
measure designed to increase the torsional rigidity of the wing.
Please take great care over this procedure, and in particular
glue each brace to the top and bottom wing spars
11.4 + 11.3
.
The diagonal braces are easier to install if you curve them to the
approximate shape beforehand.
Figs. 24 + 25
Completing the wing
17. Wing centre section doubler
Sand off the pimples on the central area of the wing where the
centre section doubler
15
fits, and glue the doubler in place
using cyano.
Fig. 26
18. Installing the aileron servos and the M6 socket
Temporarily place the servos in their recesses. Cut the servo
leads to the correct length and position them in the wing together
with the green M6 socket, as shown in
Fig. 27
.
Caution: check the wire assignment carefully; the insulation
colours on the plug and socket must match up correctly.
Back to the soldering iron!
Carefully separate the servo ribbon cable into its individual
colours using a pair of side-cutters. Strip a little insulation from
the wire ends, and tin (apply solder to) the bare conductors. Tin
the individual contacts of the M6 socket. Slip a piece of heat-
shrink sleeve over each wire, and solder the wire ends to the
contacts in the arrangement shown in
Fig. 27
.
Slip the sleeves over the soldered joints and shrink them in
place using a heat-gun or similar.
Press the servos into their wells, and secure them with a drop of
cyano at each mounting lug. Deploy the servo leads in the servo
lead ducts, pressing them into place with a blunt, flat instrument.
Place the connector in the holder and glue it in place as shown.
Ensure in particular that not the tiniest trace of adhesive gets
onto the surfaces which later come into contact with the
mating half of the connector, i.e. apply the glue to the socket
holder only.
19. Concealing the wing spars
Part of the main spar lies below the surface of the underside of
the wing; these channels can be covered by applying the stickers
16
. The stickers improve the look of the model, and compensate
for the stepped height of the surface.
Fig. 28
20. Aileron linkages
Assemble the aileron horns from parts
24, 25
and
26
, as shown
in
Fig. 29
, and carefully glue them in the appropriate recesses in
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