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Construction Manual

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Step 3 - Wing Assembly (front spar)

Locate another SP2 from BP1 

and this is now glued on top of 

the SP1 you just installed. This 

will allow the lower and upper 

scarf joints to overlap, rather 

than be aligned. Again, make 

sure that this SP2 is glued to 

the SP1 (and the overlapping portion of SP2) below it, as well as 

where it contacts the basswood strip. Make sure this joint is straight 

as shown here.

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Step 4 - Wing Assembly (front spar)

Now locate another SP1 and glue 
in place, aligning the laser-cut scarf 
joints and making sure it is properly 
positioned as the glue cures.

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Step 5 - Wing Assembly (front spar)

To complete this spar, locate another 

of the 1/4” square basswood strips. 

Glue this to the edge of the spar 

assembly, to the edges of the SP1 

and SP2 pieces as shown here. Make 

sure it’s flat and straight along it’s 

entire length.

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Step 6 - Wing Assembly (front spar)

Once the glue has cured in the spar assembly, remove it from the 

building board and lightly sand it’s surfaces to make sure they are 

flat and smooth, removing any glue bumps that may have formed 

during the assembly and curing. Don’t go overboard - just make 

sure that you have a piece that is flat on all sides so it will slide 

smoothly into the ribs during the upcoming steps.

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Step 7 - Wing Assembly (rear spar)

Now locate two of the 1/8” 

square basswood strips, one 

SP3 and one SP4 from BP1. 

Using these pieces you’ll 

make the rear spar, using the 

same techniques as you did 

for the front spar. Start by 

gluing the long edge of SP3 

to the basswood strip, making sure it’s straight along it’s length. 

Then glue SP4 in place, lining up the scarf joint. Follow it all up with 

the other length of basswood glued to the exposed edges of SP3 

and SP4. Lightly sand it flat in preparation for the upcoming steps.

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Step 8 - Wing Assembly (R2/R2A, R4/R4A)

Now locate one R2 from BP1, one 

R4 from BP3, one R2A from LP3 

or LP5 and one R4A from LP3 or 

LP4. Pay careful attention to the 

orientation when doing this as 

you'll be gluing R2A to the outside 

face of R2 (towards the wing tip) 

and R4A to the inside face of R4 

(towards the wing root). When glued in place, R2A and R4A need to 

be perfectly aligned with top and bottom edges of their respective 

ribs. Also the rear edge should be just on the edges of R2A and 

R4A should be aligned with the rear spar cutouts in each rib.

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Step 9 - Wing Assembly (wing ribs)

Now locate one complete 

set of wing ribs. Stack them 

up in order by referring to 

the plans. Starting at the 

root: R1, R2, R2/R2A, R3, 

R4/R4A, R5, R6, R6, R5, R5, 

R5, R5 and R7. Make sure 

you align them correctly with 

the under-side tabs all in the 

same direction. Double, triple, and quadruple check that you have 

them in the correct order, then when satisfied, push the front spar 

into the larger rectangular hole in each rib. The rear spar is pushed 

through the smaller rectangular hole towards the rear of the ribs.

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Step 10 - Wing Assembly (wing ribs)

Now place this “assembly” 

onto the wing plan on your 

building board and start 

to carefully space the ribs 

apart so they align with the 

plans. Take your time and 

use a light touch so you 

don’t break off any of the 

underside tabs, or crack any 

of the ribs. They don’t need to be perfectly aligned yet, but get 

them close. Double check that all the ribs are in the right order one 

more time as in the next step everything is locked in place, making 

this the last time you’ll be able to easily fix any mix-ups. 

It’s worth 

one more look now - trust me.

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Step 11 - Wing Assembly (wing ribs)

Starting at the tip rib (R7), it’s 

time to start gluing things in 

place. I like to put a small drop 

of medium CA on the bottom of 

the underside tabs of this rib to 

help lock it in place to the waxed 

paper (or you can use pins if 

that’s your thing). Also make sure 

to use the enclosed triangle that you should have at hand from the 

first steps of this build. This ensures that this rib is perfectly aligned 

at 90° to the building surface.

Also make sure that the front and rear spar protrude a little from 

R7 - maybe an 1/8” or so.

When satisfied, glue the two spars to R7.

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Step 12 - Wing Assembly (wing ribs)

Now, slowly and methodically work your way towards the root rib, 

one rib at a time. Make sure each rib is precisely aligned - the 

spars are aligned, and that you firmly glue each rib to both spars. 

As you go along, you also might want to place a drop of glue on 

the underside tabs on every third or fourth rib to keep everything 

aligned with the plans. Continue with this until you have glued the 

R2/R2A rib in place. Stop there and move on to the next step.

Summary of Contents for Lark

Page 1: ...tteries wheels etc throughout the building process You must correctly install all R C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air Installation shown in the m...

Page 2: ...x 24 balsa 2 BP8 laser cut 3 32 x 4 x 24 balsa 1 BP9 laser cut 3 32 x 4 x 24 balsa 1 BP10 laser cut 3 32 x 4 x 12 balsa 1 BP11P laser cut 1 8 x 4 x 12 balsa 1 BP11S laser cut 1 8 x 4 x 12 balsa 1 BP1...

Page 3: ...tep or two which leaves you a bit puzzled If this happens step back and study the photo s for that step both in this manual and online All photos shown in this manual are of different Lark prototypes...

Page 4: ...erfectly aligned with top and bottom edges of their respective ribs Also the rear edge should be just on the edges of R2A and R4A should be aligned with the rear spar cutouts in each rib n n Step 9 Wi...

Page 5: ...ep 18 Wing Assembly SPACER With the ribs all in place carefully remove the SPACER pieces and then glue ribs R3 R2 and R1 to the spars Make sure you do NOT have any extra glue fouling the holes where t...

Page 6: ...moved flip it over and it s time to remove all the underside tabs that helped hold the ribs in place There s one in the front and one in the back of each rib On ribs R2 R7 these are balsa and easily c...

Page 7: ...ans n n Step 38 Wing Assembly aileron box SH Locate one SH from LP5 This should now fit in the area between the SH1 s you just installed If not lightly sand as necessary to obtain a good fit Note that...

Page 8: ...aligned as shown here n Step 41 Wing Assembly ailerons Locate the two lengths of 5 16 x 1 1 4 tapered balsa sticks These are used as the ailerons Refer to the plan for the correct length then cut one...

Page 9: ...you ve properly aligned and centered it on the S7 ribs n Step 58 Vertical Fin Assembly VF16 Remove the rudder assembly and flip it over Again lightly sand the structure so it s flat Then locate the o...

Page 10: ...lue and then make sure it is properly affixed to the TR1 assembly as shown here n Step 74 Fuse Assembly F4 WH5 Locate F4 from LP2 and the WH5 assembly you made earlier These are both attached towards...

Page 11: ...r as shown here This will guarantee that the alignment of the fuselage doesn t shift as work will now move towards the front of the fuselage n Step 84 Fuse Assembly lite ply box install With the fusel...

Page 12: ...the time to sand the leading edges of the stab and vertical fin as they ll be much easier to do now than after installation Make sure that the leading edges are nicely rounded and you might want to te...

Page 13: ...lf from 3 32 sheeting scrap plenty to choose from the various BP sheets This sheeting should be cross grained and will fit snugly between the fuselage sides resting on the 3 32 square balsa longerons...

Page 14: ...from the fuselage n Step 104 Fuse Assembly magnets Locate the 8 magnets from the hardware bag as you ll use 4 of them in this step and 4 in the next Inside the tank battery area you ll see 4 pre cut...

Page 15: ...up next Here s a couple photos showing sample electric and glow installations Note that these are suggestions only as your power system might vary from our examples Glow power Mounting the engine is...

Page 16: ...all surfaces are smooth and ready to cover Sand as necessary then cover the entire airframe with the covering finish of your choice Note that if you re powering with an electric motor you ll need to...

Page 17: ...throws have been set cut a few pieces of medium silicone fuel tubing or heat shrink tubing to go around each of the clevises This will keep them from opening during flight Preflight Charge both the t...

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