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Please note that this product has been through our rigid quality
control procedures which include visual inspection under bright
lights. For your peace of mind, please unwrap the bath and check
carefully to ensure it has not been damaged in handling or transport
which is beyond our control.
Claims regarding cracks and/or face and/or surface
damage will not be recognised after 14 days from when
the product was dispatched from our warehouse or
48 hrs after receipt by end user. No such claims will be
recognised after installation.
Acrylic baths need to be supported under all rims as well as along the full length of the floor of the bath.
Baths with Self-Supporting Base Pads
Some baths (only those with 5 PVC circles glassed to the base) can be
installed on a firm level surface without the need to use a mortar bed.
Use a cement based adhesive to glue the base pads to the floor.
This must only be done where the support area is completely smooth,
clean and level. Spread adhesive liberally over the support floor and
base pads and allow adequate time for it to cure. On a timber floor
it is necessary to first lay a fibre cement sheet in accordance with
the manufacturer’s installation instructions. The bath feet must then
be adhered to the sheet with a concrete based adhesive.
All Other Baths
Allow a minimum of 50mm for the mortar bed. Mix the mortar to
a dryish consistency to minimise shrinkage and droop. Include a
bonding Agent such as BONDCRETE in the mix. It is a requirement
of the water authorities that all non-self-supporting baths be
supported the full length of the bath base on a mortar mix. When
installing an Island bath, the full perimeter also has to be supported
by a ‘frame’ of timber or masonry as per diagram “D”.
Supporting the Base
DO NOT USE
FOAM TO
SUPPORT THE
BASE OF
ANY BATH
When baths are supplied with steel base (and/or base and rim)
support frame, the bath should be slipped into position and the top
levelled by adjusting the feet on the frames. All of the adjustable
feet of the frame must be in full contact with the floor, so that the
base is fully supported.
A mortar mix must also be laid to fill the void between the bottom of
the bath and the floor within the frame perimeter if the bath is going
to be used as a shower/bath.
Holes for taps can be drilled in the bath using a timber hole saw.
Care should be taken not to bottom out the hole saw on the bath
as this can leave deep marks in the surface.
To avoid this, cut a 200 x 200mm section of cardboard and drill the
required hole through the centre. Leave this cardboard over the hole
saw as protection. When drilling acrylic, the points of the drill bits
should be eased from the usual chisel angle of 118 degrees to 130
degrees to reduce the chances of grabbing.
Detail of Bath to Wall
INSTALLATION MUST BE CARRIED OUT BY A QUALIFIED TRADESMAN
BATH INSTALLATION
Tap Holes
Acrylic has an excellent resistance to most things it is likely to come
into contact with in the bathroom. However if it should be exposed
to a naked flame, cigarettes or strong solvents they should be
removed immediately. To keep your bath in good condition it is
recommended you adopt the following:
1. When filling the bath start with cold water to allow the bath to
gradually adapt to the temperature.
2. To maintain the bath’s good looks it should be cleaned with liquid
or gel-type (not powder) household detergent, or all-purpose
liquid cleaners such as “Handy Andy” or “Liquid Ajax. Do not use
coarse abrasives. However cream-type cleaners such as “Jif” may
be used to remove stubborn marks but not on plated fittings.
3. When your bathing is completed it is recommended that you
wipe a damp sponge or cloth around the water line to remove
any build-up of body fats or soap residue that may result in a
“tidemark”.
4. If the bath is accidentally scratched it may be restored by using a
fine polish such as “Brasso”. If this will not remove the damage
it can be cut back with either very fine wet and dry paper used
liberally with water or car cutting compounds. After removing the
damage, restore the gloss of the bath with car polish.
CARING FOR YOUR BATH
YOUR BATHING EXPERIENCE
Your bath should be an experience to look forward to, an opportunity to pamper yourself, a retreat from the pressures
of life. The temperature of your bath will have a lasting effect on you. A hot bath will leave you totally relaxed for a
restful sleep. Run it luke warm and it will leave you fresh and ready to go. Ideally the bath water should not be too
hot. Research has shown that a temperature of 35ºC (95ºF) has the most beneficial effect on the bather. Increasing the
temperature to 37ºC or above reduces the therapeutic effects on the bather and induces drowsiness.
Diagram A
Bath
Timber or
masonry
support
wall
Timber or
masonry
wall
checked
out to
accept
bath edge
Sand cement
mortar bed
Where the bath abuts a wall, it must be set back into the wall as
detailed in diagram “B”. The wall is checked out to a depth that
will accommodate the full round of the tiling bead. A batten is
fixed to the wall to support the bottom edge of the bath rim.
The front and sides of the bath are to be supported on a dwarf
wall constructed in either timber or masonry. The front edge of
the bath can overlap the wall as shown in diagram “C” or sit on
top of the wall to create a ledge as in diagram “D”.
Detail of Bath to Wall
...Continued
Diagram B
Tile backing sheet
Tile
Timber
stud
50 x 25
batten
Silicone seal
Diagram C
Tile backing
sheet
Tile
Bath
Masonry or
stud wall
Mortar bed
Silicone sealant
Diagram D
Tile
Spa jet
Masonry or
stud wall
Mortar
Silicone sealant
Risk of personal injury. Baths are heavy and awkward to handle. Get help
when lifting or moving. Be sure to use proper tools and always wear
personal safety devices for your protection.
CAUTION
Handling
NOTE
A mortar mix must also be laid to
fill the void between the bottom
of the bath and the floor within
the frame perimeter if the bath
is going to be used as a shower/
bath. (It is a requirement of
Building Authorities and Australian
Standards that acrylic baths be
fully supported with a mortar mix).
