Powermatic PM2014, Operating Instructions And Parts Manual

 20 

Figure 10-8:  V-cuts 

5.  Repeat from the left side. The two cuts should 

meet at the bottom and leave a clean "V" cut.  

6.  Additional cuts may be taken to add to either the 

depth or width of the cut. 

Parting Off 

1.  Use parting tool. 

2.  Adjust lathe speed to lower RPM for parting 

through a workpiece. 

3.  Place tool on tool support and raise the handle 

until it starts to cut and continue to cut toward 
the center of the workpiece. 

4.  Loosely hold on to the piece in one hand as it 

separates from the waste wood. 

10.3.3

  Sanding and Finishing 

Leaving clean cuts will reduce the amount of 
sanding required. Move the tool support out of the 
way, adjust the lathe to a 

low speed

, and begin with 

fine sandpaper (120 grit or finer). Coarser 
sandpaper will leave deep scratches that are difficult 
to remove, and dull crisp details on the spindle. 
Progress through each grit without skipping grits (for 
example, do not jump from 120 grit to 220 grit). Fold 
the sandpaper into a pad; do not wrap sandpaper 
around your fingers or the workpiece. To apply a 
finish, the workpiece can be left on the lathe.  

Turn off the lathe and use a brush or paper towel to 
apply the finish. Remove excess finish before 
restarting lathe. Allow to dry and sand again with 
320 or 400 grit sandpaper. Apply second coat of 
finish and buff. 

10.4

  Face plate and bowl turning 

Face plate turning is normally done on the inboard 
side of the headstock over the bed. Larger 
workpieces must be turned on the outboard side 
(remove tailstock and tool support base, and move 
headstock to opposite end of bed). 

10.4.1

  Mounting stock 

Use of a face plate is the most common method for 
holding a block of wood for turning bowls and plates: 

1.  Select stock at least 1/8" to 1/4" larger than 

each dimension on the finished workpiece. 

2.  Always select the largest diameter face plate 

that can be used for the workpiece to be turned. 

3.  True one surface of the workpiece for mounting 

against the face plate. 

4.  Using the face plate as a template, mark the 

location of the mounting holes on the 
workpiece, and drill pilot holes of the 
appropriate size. Face plates are drilled for No. 
12 screws. (Phillips and square drive screws 
will hold up better than slotted screws. Sheet 
metal screws are case hardened with deeper 
and sharper threads than wood screws.) 

If the mounting screws on the face plate interfere 
with the workpiece, a glue or waste block can be 
used: 

5.  Make a block the same diameter as the face 

plate, Figure 10-9. Both waste block and 
workpiece should have flat surfaces for gluing.  

6.  Glue the block to the workpiece. Avoid using 

brown paper or newspaper between the waste 
block and workpiece. It may work fine if you are 
using scrapers, but a slight catch with a bowl 
gouge can separate the two. 

NOTE: When using a waste block, be careful with 
the adhesive you select. Dry workpieces can be 
bonded with ordinary white or yellow glue but must 
be clamped to ensure a good bond. Green 
workpieces require cyanoacrylate type glue.

Figure 10-9:  faceplate mounting 

10.4.2

  Faceplate or chuck? 

While faceplates are the simplest, most reliable 
method of holding a block of wood for turning, 
chucks can also be used.  As there are dozens of 
chucks to choose from, the woodturner should first 
consider all the different types of turning that will be 
done, and read reports or discuss with other turners 
who own chucks before making a decision.