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21. The production nose wheel strut will
have a bracket just above the oleo
scissors – this pre-production unit has
been modified with a bracket. Make a
linkage as shown with a clevis at one
end and a 90 degree bend and collar at
the other end. Use a cut down 1/2A
control horn to attach to the door.
The key to proper control horn
placement is to measure the distance
from the strut bracket (when extended)
to a candidate spot on the door (with the
door at a scale extension angle – see
photos). Then take a distance
measurement from the strut bracket
(when retracted) to the candidate spot
on the door (when closed).
You need to have the distances be very
close to each other. If not, try another
spot and/or adjusting the length of the
linkage.
Tack-glue the horn to the door and test
its movements by moving the strut by
hand. If it binds, you need to make an
adjustment. Adding door stops (shown
above) to the inside of the cowl will help
set the door’s closed position. When
satisfied with the horn’s position drill it
for #1 screws.
Important Reminder: Once the door is
attached to the strut – you cannot
remove the lower cowl without first
disconnecting the door linkage.
Engine Ducting
The key to adequate engine cooling is
maximizing the effectiveness of the
incoming air and providing sufficient air
exit opportunities. With this in mind, we
will illustrate how to make an engine
duct that forces the incoming air close to
the engine. Engines other than the
Revolution 50 would require slightly
different ducting.
1. Below is the cowl’s right side air exit.
The solid line is the scale size of the exit
port (denoted by the molded recess)
and the dashed line denotes a larger
exit port recommend for better engine
cooling (roughly 1.5” x 2.125”). Cut the
cowl to open up this exit.
2. Open up the right side air intake as
shown. Do not cut open the left side
intake. Since there are only a few scale
locations for air exit, you need to
carefully select the air entry points.
Summary of Contents for T-34C TURBO MENTOR
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