- 3 -
TROUBLESHOOTING
Low or slow water production
This might be caused by low water pressure, crimps in tubing, clogged pre-filters, or a fouled
membrane.
If the water pressure is above 50psi, first try re-tapping the tap supply line by tightening the
self-piercing valve clockwise unit it is fully seated, then turn it counterclockwise unit it stops. This
should open enough space in the line for proper water flow.
If there are crimps in the tubing, straighten or repair them as necessary.
If the pre-filters are clogged, they will need to be replaced.
If the membrane is fouled, it will need to be replaced.
Milk colored water
This is caused by air in the system. This is a normal occurrence with the start-up of a Reverse Osmosis
System. The milky look will disappear with normal use during the first 1-2 weeks. This condition can
also happen after filter changes, but can usually be solved by draining the tank 1 or 2 times.
Leaks from unit or filter housings
Leaks can be caused by loose fittings, a missing, damaged, or improperly seated o-ring, or an
improperly inserted plastic ferrule on the brass fitting.
If the fittings are not tightened, then carefully re-tighten the fittings.
If the o-ring is missing or damaged then contact a dealer for a replacement.
If the o-ring is out of round, make sure the o-ring is properly lubricated and inserted into its housing
before replacing the housing.
If the plastic ferrules are inserted backwards, remove and re-orient them, making sure the tapered
end points toward the valve.
Annual sanitization procedure
Yearly sanitation is recommended on all of our RO systems. The best time to do this is when you are
changing your filters. Drain the system, including the tank, then, disconnect the tubing from the shut-off
valve to the tank. Put approximately 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of Hydrogen Peroxide or common household
bleach into this tube. If you use an eyedropper, this will be easier. Reconnect the tube to the shut-off
valve and follow normal start-up procedures, including the tank.
