Robinsons Rowton, Assembly Instructions Manual

3 

SECTION

No 

TITLE 

ASSEMBLY SYNOPSIS: IMPORTANT INFORMATION / CONSIDERATIONS 

PARTS LIST 

Most components should have a ‘D’ code punched into their metal surface. Identify and separate 
all like for like components prior to assembly. The ‘parts list’ also separates parts into the various 
sections shown below. Parts can also be identified by their profile pictures and stated lengths etc.. 

B 

BASE 

Base dimensions and recommendations. Ensure that your base is level as this will make assembly 
of the building, especially the glazing of the roof much more straight forward.  

P 

PREPARATION 

Tools required. IMPORTANT: Use WD40 or similar in the glazing bar channels and insert the black 
glazing rubber prior to frame assembly.  

1 

SIDES 

Take the side glazing bars ‘D066’ with the rubber inserted and the diagonal braces ‘D103’, use 
10mm bolts to join them to the gutter and 15mm bolts to the cills (note how the head of the bolts 
slide into each glazing bar during construction). 

2 

FRONT  

Again ensuring that the gable framework is rubbered-up follow the diagrams to assemble each end 
of the building. Make sure that you have inserted the extra bolts utilised in sections 4, 5  and 10. 
On the roof and side corner bars not every rubber channel will require rubber. 

3 

REAR 

4 

JOINING THE 

FOUR SIDES  

Take the two sides (1) and both gables (2 & 3) and join them together on your base. It is a good 
idea to tie some ladders to the sides to support them if you do not have anyone to hold them for 
you. 

5 

ROOF 

Attach the ridge and then the rubbered-up roof bars ensuring that they are fully butted up to the 
ridge and down onto the gutter. If you have cresting then it is a good idea to fit it before glazing, 
see section (14). 

6 

DOOR 

Construct the door using the diagrams and then leave to one side ready for attachment in section 
(10). 

7a 

VENT 

Once the vent is glazed add silicone to the vent sides and top. Stand the vent/s on their hinge (vent 
top) and then leave the silicone to set.   

7b 

VENT SLAM 

The slam bar ‘D079’ can be moved up and down between the roof glazing bars so that it can be 
butted down onto the pane of glass beneath, the autovent will be attached to it later on (9). 

8 

GLAZING 

Layout the bar capping and covers around the building like a sundial checking that all is present 
and correct. You can also place the roof capping in the gutters so they are closer to hand. The 
glass in the sides has to bevel on the black separator strip which is on top of the 305mm high glass 
base panels. This bevelling action allows the glass to tuck underneath the gutter canopy. Use the 
capping and the self tapping screws to then hold the glass in place. The covers then enclose the 
screw heads giving a neat finish. A top tip is to not attach the door post capping (D766/D767) until 
you have fitted the door runner and threshold (10) to give you more room to manoeuvre. It is a 
good idea to glaze two roof sections first to ensure the building is square followed by two side sec-
tions to ensure the building isn't leaning,   

9 

VENT  

ATTACHMENT 

Take the assembled vent and slide the vent hinge ‘D866’ into the end of the ridge allowing the vent 
to pivot open and closed. Vent stops go either side of the vent to stop any lateral movement (so 
insert stop / vent / stop). Attachment of the Bayliss XL autovents.  

10 

DOOR  

ATTACHMENT 

Use the bolts inserted in section (2) to attach the upper door track. The lower door runner ’D860’ 
and ramp threshold ‘D087’ push down and lock together.   

11 

ANCHORING 

DOWN 

Now that the greenhouse is finished and the door and vent/s are operating without interference 
then you need to anchor the building down using 2” rawl plugs and screws. Use a 7mm masonry 
bit in a hammer drill to create the holes. 

12 

OPTIONAL 

LOUVRE 

They attach to the building during the glazing process (8) like a piece of glass with a black separa-
tor above and below them. 

13 

OPTIONAL 
SHELVING 

Robinsons integral cantilever shelving attaches to the inside of the greenhouse frame using either 
square head bolts (for each shelf insert two into each side glazing bar ’D066’ during construction of 
the sides (1)) or use rectangular ‘crop head’ bolts which can be fitted retrospectively (both sets of 
bolts accompany the shelving). 2’ shelves can also be fitted onto the rear glazing bars ‘D057’ so 
again you may wish to pre-load them with two bolts or more. This system allows the height of the 
shelf to be set at an operator specific height, note it is possible to get up to three sets of shelving 
on each side and rear. The aluminium shelf slats come in three lengths; (2’): 620mm ‘D2001’, 
(4’):1240mm ‘D2002’ and (6’):1860mm ’D2003’. These slats can combine to create any length of 
staging required, i.e. 4’+6’ = 10’ etc...    

14 

FINISHING 

TOUCHES 

Now that the main body of the structure is complete you can add; ridge caps, downpipe fittings, 
eave bungs. Images showing cresting and finial attachment, this is often easiest to do after section 
(5) rather than using the vent apertures later on (i.e. before glazing).