Royal Enfield 350 BULLET 1949 Workshop Maintenance Manual Download

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ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL

After removal of the fork head the lamp

bracket tubes can be lifted straight off and the
springs can be withdrawn from the upper end of
the main tubes.

7. Removal of Main Tubes

To remove the main tubes first dismantle the

fork as described in paragraph 3 then remove the
facia panel fork head and lamp bracket tubes as
described  in  paragraph  6.  Now  remove  one  nut
from  each  of  the  fork  crown  clamp  studs,
remove the studs and separate the clamp sleeves
with  a  drift  of  the  form  shown  in  Fig.  4.  Now
knock  the  main  tubes  out  of  the  fork  crown
either  upwards  or  downwards  as  may  be  most
convenient.  If  the  machine  has  been  in  an
accident  and  the  tube  is  badly  bent  both  above
and  below  the  fork  crown,  it  may  be  necessary
to cut through the tube with a hacksaw before  it
can be withdrawn.

8. Reassembly of Parts

No difficulty should be experienced with

this.  When  refitting  the  main  tube  use  the  lamp
bracket tube as a guide to its correct position in
the  fork  crown.  The  small  shoulder  some  1.1/2
in. from the upper end of the tube should be 1/8
in. above the top of the lamp bracket tube when
the latter is in position on the fork crown. With
the  main  tube  in  this  position  tighten  the  fork
crown  clamp  screws  before  fitting  the  facia
panel fork head.

The cover tube must be fitted in position on

the  fork  crown  and  the  clamp  sleeves  placed  in
position  before  the  main  tube  is  fitted.  To  keep
the clamp sleeves in position  it is convenient to
insert  a  short  piece  of  tube  or  bar  in  the  eye  of
the  fork  crown  before  putting  the  cover  tube  in
position. The short piece of tube will be pushed
out  when  inserting  the  main  tube.  Before
tightening  the  nuts  on  the  three  fork  head  clip
bolts  make  sure  that  the  bolt  heads  and  the
sleeves  are  correctly  positioned  with  the
cut-away  portion  engaging  the  main  tube  or
steering  stem.  Failure  to  do  this  may  result  in  a
cracked fork head.

When refitting the oil seal or fitting a new

one great care must be exercised not to damage
the  synthetic  rubber  lip  which  forms  the  actual
seal.  If  the  seal  has  been  removed  from  the
upper end of the main tube and is refitted from
this  end  a  special  nose  piece  (Fig.  5)  must  be
fitted  over  the  end  of  the  tube  to  prevent  the
thread from damaging the oil seal.

The spring stud is a tight fit in the hole at the

lower end of the bottom tube. Once the stud has
been entered in the hole push the bottom tube up
sharply  against  the  spring  until  two  or  three
threads  on  the  stud  project  beneath  the  end  of
the bottom tube. Now fit the nut and washer and
pull the stud into position by tightening the nut.
If  necessary  fit  the  nut  first  without  the  washer
until sufficient thread is projecting to enable the
washer to be fitted.

9. Lubrication

The lubrication of the fork bearings is elected

by  the  oil  which  forms  the  hydraulic  damping
medium.  All  that  is  necessary  is  to  keep
sufficient  oil  in  the  fork  to  ensure  that  the  top
end of the bottom spring stud is never uncovered
even  in  the  full  rebound  position.  The  level  of
oil  in  the  fork  can  be  gauged  by  removing  the
top  plug  screw  and  inserting  a  long  rod  about
3/8 in. diameter. If slightly tilted this  will ledge
against  the  nut  at  the  upper  end  of  the  bottom
spring  stud  and  indicate  the  level  of  oil  above
the  stud.  If  the  fork  is  empty  to  start  with  the
quantity  required  is  approximately  7.1/2  fluid
ounces in each leg. Recommended grades of oil
are Castolite, Mobiloil Arctic, Essolube 20, B.P.
Energol S.A.E. 20 and Shell X-100 20/20 w.

Section J3 Page 4

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