Royal Enfield CONSTELLATION 1958 Workshop Maintenance Manual Download

Page: 46 / 106

(See Section C1 or C2.) The top gear pinion and
dog will come away with the mainshaft.

The layshaft can then be removed and the

2nd and 3rd gears drawn off the final drive
sleeve together with the operator fork.

To take out the final drive sleeve, the final

drive sprocket must be removed and this is
preferably done before removing the inner
cover. (See Section C1 or C2.)

3. Removal of the Ball Races

The mainshaft ball bearings can be removed

by  using  a  stepped  drift  1.7/16  in.–1.11/64  in.
diameter  for  the  bearing  in  the  box  and  13/16
in.-39/64  in.  diameter  for  the  bearing  in  the
cover.

When refitting the bearings stepped drifts of

2.5/16 in.-1.11/64 in. diameter and 1.11/16 in.-
39/64 in. diameter must be used for the bearings
in the box and cover respectively.

Note the felt washer in the recess behind the

larger  main  shaft  bearing  and  the  dished
pen-steel  washer  between  the  bearing  and  the
felt  washer.  The  second  dished  pen-steel
washer,  if  fitted,  has  a  smaller  central  hole  and
is on the other side of the main shaft bearing and
is  nipped  between  the  inner  face  of the bearing
and  the  shoulder  on  the  final  drive  sleeve.  See
that  both  of  the  dished  pen-steel  washers  have
their  raised  portions  facing  towards  the  clutch
and final drive sprocket.

4. Gear Change Mechanism

If the two nuts securing the gear change

ratchet  mechanism  are  slackened,  the  adjuster
plate  can  be  set  in  the  correct  position.  In  this
position  the  movement  of  the  gear  lever
necessary  to  engage  the  ratchet  teeth  will  be
approximately the same in each direction.

If the plate is incorrectly adjusted, it may be

found  that,  after  moving  from  top  to  third  or
from  bottom  to  second  gear,  the  outer  ratchets
do  not  engage  the  teeth  on  the  inner  ratchets
correctly.

If, when fitting new parts, it is found that the

gears  do  not engage  properly,  ascertain  whether
a  little  more  movement  is  required  or  whether
there  is  too  much  movement  so  that  the  gear
slips  right  through  second  or  third  gear  into
neutral.  If  more  movement  is  required,  this  can
be  obtained  by  filing  the  adjuster  plate  very
slightly at the points of contact with the pegs on
the ratchet ring.

If too much movement is already present, a

new adjuster plate giving less movement must
be fitted.

5. Re-Assembling the Gearbox

The procedure is the reverse of that given in

Subsection 2 but the following points should be

noted:

If the main shaft top gear pinion and dog

have been removed, make sure that the dog is
replaced the right way round or third and top
gears can be engaged simultaneously.

Make sure that the trunnions on the operator

fork engage with the slots in the inside operator.

See that the main shaft is pushed right home

(It may tighten in the felt washer inside the final
drive shaft nut.)

The layshaft top gear and kickstarter pinion

should  be  assembled  on  the  layshaft  and  the
kickstarter  shaft  and  ratchet  assembled  on  to  it
before  fitting  the  end  cover.  Do  not  forget  the
washer  on  the  layshaft  between  the  kickstarter
pinion and the kickstarter shaft.

The joint between the gearbox and the inner

cover should be made with gold size, shellac or a
similar jointing compound.

Make sure that all parts are clean before

commencing assembly. In normal climates the
recesses in the gearbox should be packed with
soft grease and the box should be filled up to the
correct level with gear oil. (See Subsection 9.)
On no account must heavy yellow grease be
used.

6. Dismantling and Re-assembly of the Clutch

The method of removing the clutch is

described in Section C1 or C2.

When re-assembling, note that two of the

steel plates are dished and that the other(s) are
flat. The correct order of assembly is shown on
the exploded drawing.

Do not forget to replace the cush rubber plate

retaining cover before fitting the pressure plate.

Make sure that the distance tubes inside three

of the springs pass through the holes in the
pressure plate. The other three springs are
located by means of bosses on the clutch cap.

Tighten the spring pins as far as they will go

If the clutch lifts unevenly it is probable that one
of the springs has taken a set, in which case new
springs should be fitted.

7. Adjustment of the Clutch Control

It is essential that there should be about 1/16

in. free movement in the clutch cable, to ensure
that all the spring pressure is exerted on the
plate.

There are two points of adjustment for the

clutch cable. The first is at the top of the gearbox
just behind the oil filler plug and is provided for
taking  up  any  stretch  in  the  cable.  The
adjustment  is  made  by  screwing  the  collar  in  or
out of the gearbox shell. The connection between
the end of the cable and the horizontal lever can
be  seen  if  the  top  small  inspection  cover  on  the
front  of  the  gearbox  is  removed.  Tighten  the
locknut  on  the  screwed  collar  after  adjustment
has been made.

Section E4 Page 3

www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com