Ryobi OCS1830BL, Original Instructions Manual

8

Push and pull

The reaction force is always opposite to the direction the 

chain is moving. Thus, the operator must be ready to 

control the tendency for the machine to pull away (forward 

motion) when cutting on the bottom edge of the bar and the 

push backwards (towards the operator) when cutting along 

the top edge.

Saw jammed in the cut

Stop the chainsaw, and engage the chain brake. Do not 

try to force the chain and bar out of the cut as this is likely 

to break the chain, which may swing back and strike the 

operator. This situation normally occurs because the wood 

is incorrectly supported, which forces the cut to close under 

compression, thereby pinching the blade. If adjusting the 

support does not release the bar and chain, use wooden 

wedges or a lever to open the cut and release the saw. 

Never try to start the chainsaw when the guide bar is 

already in a cut or kerf.

Skating/Bouncing

When the chainsaw fails to dig in during a cut, the guide 

bar can dangerously begin hopping or skidding along the 

surface of the log or branch, possibly resulting in the loss 

of control of the chainsaw. To prevent or reduce skating or 

bouncing, always use the saw with both hands. Make sure 

that the saw chain establishes a groove for cutting.

Never  cut  small,  flexible  brances  or  brushes  with  your 

chainsaw.  Their  size  and  flexibility  can  easily  cause  the 

saw to bounce towards you or bind up with enough force 

to cause a kickback. The best tool for that kind of work is 

a hand saw, pruning shears, an axe, or other hand tools.

Felling a tree

See page 19 - 20.

When bucking and felling operations are being performed 

by two or more persons at the same time, the felling 

operations should be separated from the bucking operation 

by a distance of at least twice the height of the tree being 

felled. Trees should not be felled in a manner that would 

endanger any person, strike any utility line or cause any 

property damage. If the tree does make contact with any 

utility line, the company should be notified immediately.

Stand on the uphill side of the terrain as the tree is likely to 

roll or slide downhill after it is felled.
Plan and clear an escape path  before cuts are starting 

cuts. The escape path should extend back and diagonally 

to the rear of the expected line of fall.
Before starting to fell a tree, consider the natural lean of the 

tree, the location of larger branches and the wind direction 

to judge which way the tree will fall.

Remove dirt, stones, loose bark, nails, staples, and wire 

from the tree.
Do not attempt to fell trees that are rotten or have been 

damaged  by  wind,  fire,  lightning,  etc.  This  is  extremely 

dangerous and should only be completed by professional 

tree surgeons.

1.  Notching undercut

See page 19 - 20.

Make  the  notch  1/3  the  diameter  of  the  tree, 

perpendicular to the direction of falls. Make the lower 

horizontal notching cut first to avoid pinching either the 

saw chain or the guide bar when the second notch is 

being made.

2.  Felling back cut

See page 19 - 20.

Make the felling back cut at least 50 mm (2 in.) higher 

than the horizontal notching cut. Keep the felling back 

cut parallel to the horizontal notching cut. Make the 

felling back cut so enough wood is left to act as a hinge. 

The hinge wood keeps the tree from twisting and falling 

in the wrong direction. Do not cut through the hinge.
As the felling gets close to the hinge, the tree should 

begin to fall. If there is any chance that the tree may 

not fall in desired direction or it may rock back and 

bind the saw chain, stop cutting before the felling back 

cut is complete, and use wedges of wood, plastic or 

aluminium to open the cut and drop the tree along the 

desired line of fall.
When the tree begins to fall, remove the chainsaw from 

the cut, stop the motor, put the chainsaw down, then 

use the retreat path planned. Be alert for overhead 

limbs falling, and watch your footing.

Removing buttress roots

See page 20.

A buttress root is a large root extending from the trunk of 

the tree above the ground. Remove large buttress roots 

before felling. Make the horizontal cut into the buttress first, 

followed by the vertical cut. Remove the resulting loose 

section from the work area. Follow the correct tree felling 

procedure after you have removed the large buttress roots. 

Bucking a log

See page 21.

Bucking is the process of cutting a log into lengths. Make 

sure  that  your  footing  is  firm  and  your  weight  is  evenly 

distributed on both feet. When possible, the log should 

be raised and supported by the use of limbs, logs, or 

chocks. Follow the directions for easy cutting. When the 

log is supported along its entire length, it is cut from the 

top (overbuck).

When the log is supported on one end, cut 1/3 the diameter 

from the underside (underbuck). Make the finished cut by 

overbucking to meet the first cut.
When  the  log  is  supported  on  both  ends,  cut  1/3  the 

diameter from the top (overbuck). Make the finished cut by 

underbucking the lower 2/3 to meet the first cut.

When bucking on a slope, always stand on the uphill side 

of the log. When “cutting through”, to maintain complete 

control release the cutting pressure near the end of the 

cut without relaxing your grip on the chainsaw handles. Do 

not let the chain contact the ground. After completing the 

cut, wait for the saw chain to stop before you move the 

chainsaw. Always stop the motor before moving from tree 

to tree.

Limbing a tree

See page 22.

Limbing is the process of removing the branches from 

a fallen tree. When limbing, leave larger lower limbs to 

support the log off the ground. Remove the small limbs in