Rytan RY456, Operator'S Manual

3.         Your ball bearing cutter wheel shaft assembly is wearing out.  With the machine turned

OFF—grab the cutter wheel’s left-hand nut and try to get some movement out of it.  There should

be absolutely no movement—if there’s movement in the bearings you need to replace the cutter shaft

assembly.  If there is no movement it may be the other bearing next to the drive pulley—you will

have to remove the drive belt to be able to check it out.  Another possibility is the way some of the

ball bearing cages are made inside the bearings—these ball cages have an assembly opening created

at the bearing factory.  These bearings sometimes make a slight “ticking” sound.  In this case the

sound may not be a problem.

4.

The machine’s cutter shaft lock is partially depressed and is rubbing against the drive pulley.

 Pull up on the shaft lock knob and the sound should disappear.

Machine Won’t Start

There are several things that can cause this besides the obvious—plug in the machine and check the

power line.

1.

If you are running 12 Volt D.C.—check the fuse and ALL the wiring and connections.

2.

Key cuttings in the motor’s capacitor.  Unplug the machine, remove the capacitor’s rubber

cover and blow out the chips.  Remember to wear safety glasses.

3.

Remove the machine’s access plate—check the wiring connections and switch.  Repair or

replace as necessary.

4.

Cutter shaft lock is in the locked position.

Cutter Wheel Didn’t Seem to Last Long

Several things can cause this to happen.

1.

The cutter will last the longest if it only duplicates brass keys.

2.

Premium quality Nickel-Silver key blanks are abrasive to the cutter wheel and will dull the

cutter more rapidly than brass keys.  Here’s what you can do to get the maximum life out of your

cutter wheel on these premium blanks.

a) Duplicate them a little slower.  Racing through the job, especially in large rekeying jobs

will put more wear on the cutter wheel than going a little slower.  The machine’s high-speed

“stick-shift” feature, extremely powerful motor and extra large diameter cutter are a real

temptation to push the machine faster and faster.

b) You should charge a little bit more money for cutting premium key blanks and put that

difference aside for the purchase of a new cutter.

3.

You really cut more keys than you thought you did.  Often we calculate how many months

the cutter lasted instead of how many keys you cut.  If you really want to know how long your cutter

lasted—keep an accurate inventory of your key blanks—or put a simple mechanical counter on your

key machine and you’ll be surprised with results.

4.

You cut steel keys.  You can cut them, but we don’t recommend it.  No question about it—

steel keys are hard on cutters….period!

5.

You cut a beautiful brand new Automotive “Presentation” key that the customer brought

in.  You

cut the key and “toasted” the cutter.

What you cut was a Gold plated hardened steel key.

They’re out there—they were made by mistake sometime ago and they continue to surface from

time to time.  Best thing to do is:

a).

Never cut a key that’s brought in by your customer.  Cut only what you know and

make sure it always comes from YOUR inventory.

b).

Place a small magnet near your key machine.  Test any key that’s suspicious—if

it’s magnetic its not brass or Nickel-Silver...period.

Cutter Wobbles

This situation may be caused by a key cutting on the face of the cuter shaft preventing the cutter wheel from

seating properly.  Fix it by removing the cutter wheel and cleaning all the surfaces and reinstalling the cutter

wheel.  If the cutter wheel still wobbles its time to replace the cutter shaft assembly with a new one.

REMEMBER: Cutter wheel is secured with a Left-Hand Nut.  You must “tighten” to loosen.

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