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Tandem disassembly 

 

Required tools 

 

4, 5 and 8 or 10 mm Allen wrench 

 

Pin-spanner tool to tighten the chain if necessary (e.g. Park-Tool SPA-1) 

 

S&S coupling wrench (no longer needed with the new Z-couplings) 

 

Disassembly

 

1.

 

If the tandem is equipped with extras such as racks, lowriders, mudguards or bottle mounts on the stoker lateral tube, 
these are removed first. 

2.

 

The first step is to disconnect the shift cables and the rear brake cable at the cable 
couplers  under  the  bottom  tube.  To  remove  the  tension  from  the  cables,  it  is 
recommended to switch gears to the smallest sprocket at the front and rear. 

3.

 

Then remove the barrel adjuster on the down tube (unscrew them on older models) 
to adjust the cable. separate the cables from the frame. If the tandem is equipped 
with an electric shifting system, only the plugs on the head tube, respectively at the 
display and on the captain and stoker bottom brackets are disconnected. 

4.

 

Now the captain handlebar is separated from the frame. 

a)

 

 To do so, first unhook the front brake (V-brake) and unscrew the brake caliper, still attached to the brake cable, 
with a 5 mm Allen wrench. Then screw the screw back into the thread to avoid losing it. Alternatively, the brake 
cable  can  also  be  loosened  from  the  brake  caliper  by  unscrewing  the  5  mm  Allen  screw  (Note:  When 
reassembling, the brake may need to be adjusted again). For a caliper brake, the brake caliper is loosened and 
the sleeve nut (5 mm Allen) on the back side of the fork crown is unscrewed in succession the entire brake caliper. 

b)

 

To remove the handlebars, first loosen the stem bolts (4 or 5) on the side of the steerer tube and then remove the 
headset cap by unscrewing the center 5 Allen screw. 

c)

 

Afterwards, screw the cap of the headset back into the steerer tube to avoid losing it.  

d)

 

The handlebar bolts (4/5) on the disassembled handlebar can be loosened so that it can later be placed flat 
and space-saving in the case.  

5.

 

Now the tandem is flipped over so that it stands on the saddles, while the handlebar of the stoker keeps the tandem 
from tipping over sideways. 

6.

 

Next, remove the front wheel and the rear wheel by loosening the quick release/ thru axles. Remove the quick release 
from the wheel hubs, as these will be packed separately later. 

7.

 

Loosen the cranks of the timing chain with an 8- or 10-mm Allen wrench. The chain and the belt are removed at once. 
Tip:  with the  belt  drive,  the position  of the cranks  on  the  belt  and the  belt  blades can  be  marked with  a  colored 
marker pen. This makes it easier to find the synchronized crank position when assembling. 

8.

 

Then remove the cranks on the other side. 

9.

 

The  chain  can  be  left  on  the  frame.  However,  the  chain  stay  should  be  protected  from  paint  scratches  with  a 
protective pad and the chain should be fixed with 2-3 more Velcro pads. If a carrier is packed, the rear derailleur 
must  be  removed  from  the  frame.  If knowledge with chain  locks  are  available,  SRAM,  KMC  or  Shimano  11-speed 
chains can also be disassembled.

 

 

Summary of Contents for Tandem

Page 1: ...ke caliper is loosened and the sleeve nut 5 mm Allen on the back side of the fork crown is unscrewed in succession the entire brake caliper b To remove the handlebars first loosen the stem bolts 4 or 5 on the side of the steerer tube and then remove the headset cap by unscrewing the center 5 Allen screw c Afterwards screw the cap of the headset back into the steerer tube to avoid losing it d The h...

Page 2: ...his save having to re adjust the correct handlebar position when reassembling At the removed handlebars still loosen the handlebar bolts so that it can be stored flat and space saving in the case 13 Now the packing into the tandem case takes place First remove the foam layers 2 6 these are numbered at the top right Packing into the Santana SafeCase First remove the foam layers one by one and place...

Page 3: ...yer 5 Place the rear frame with the rear derailleur facing down Pad the cassette towards the chainstay and if necessary rotate the rear wheel underneath slightly so that the rear derailleur finds room between the spokes Captain and stoker saddle Push the front wheel with released air into the rear frame like installing the rear wheel Layer 6 Top tube Plastic box with tools a belt can be placed loo...

Page 4: ...Nm a coupling wrench is required for S S couplings This prevents unwanted tensions caused by uneven tightening of the screws 7 Next the cranks are mounted The length of the crank tells you which of the left cranks belongs to the captain and which to the stoker The captain crank is 5 mm longer than the stoker crank a At the beginning the rear chain is placed on the chainring of the Stoker crank The...

Page 5: ...guide and screw it together by hand with the left brake cable coming from the rear b The shift cable of the rear derailleur is led from the front through the middle cable guide under the captain bottom bracket and connected with the shift cable of the rear derailleur coming from the right rear side Make sure that the lowest gear is selected so that the tension of the cable is minimized c Finally t...

Page 6: ...isc brake e The rear shifting is adjusted by turning the barrel adjuster on the underside of the down tube Unscrewing the adjuster will pull the chain down on the cassette while screwing the adjuster will pull the chain up on the cassette f Adjusting the front derailleur is done similarly by turning the barrel adjuster on the underside of the down tube g If the tandem is equipped with an electric ...

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