MODEL 390.303300 ROD AND
FLOAT SWITCH INSTALLATION
The rod and float assembly consists of a stainless steel rod,
a plastic float, and four (4) rubber bushing stops.
The assembly must be attached to the switch arm of the
switch on the motor as follows:
See Figure 2, Page 3 for ( ) numbers.
1. Push one rubber bushing stop (1) to middle of stainless
steel rod.
2. With rod in vertical position, slide bottom end of rod
down thru hole in solid end of float marked TOP.
NOTE:
When completely assembled, end of float marked
TOP must face up towards the motor.
3. Push one rubber bushing stop (3) up on rod under float
about five (5) inches from end of rod.
4. Push one rubber bushing stop (4) down from top end of
rod about three (3) inches.
5. Insert bottom end of rod in hole in rod guide on base of
drainer.
6. Lift top end of rod up thru hole in switch arm and push
last rubber bushing stop (6) down on rod about one (1)
inch.
7. Slide rubber bushing stop (4) under switch arm up on rod
so there is about 1/2" distance between the two top bush-
ings. This will allow for free movement of the switch arm
between the bushings.
8. Lift the rod up and down to check that the switch will
click and the arm does not bind on the rubber bushings.
9. When switch arm is in the up position, the bottom end
of the steel rod should be about one (1) inch below the
rod guide.
MODEL 390.303490 ROD AND
FLOAT SWITCH INSTALLATION
1. Thread float rod into float until it is firmly hand tight.
2. Slide rod guide over float rod; follow it with a rod stop
bushing set at about 8” down from the top of the rod.
3. Slide float rod up through the eye in the switch arm. Add
a rod stop bushing at the top of the rod. Make sure the
rod guide is tightly clamped. Float rod must be vertical
and able to move up and down without binding.
4. Open large loop on rod guide and mount it around the
column. Fasten with screw, making sure that the float rod
hangs vertically from the switch and moves freely in the
rod guide.
5. Adjust rod stop bushings for designed level control.
6. Lift the rod up and down to be sure the switch will click
and that the arm does not bind on the rubber bushings.
The rod must also move freely in the guide.
7. Fill the sump and run pump through one complete cycle
to check switch operation.
The switch unit operates as follows:
1. When the sump is dry, the float rod hangs from the switch
arm. Its weight holds the switch off.
2. When the water rises in the sump, the float lifts the switch
rod. The buoyancy will push the switch arm up and turn
the switch on.
3. When the water is pumped out of the sump, the float
drops down again. The weight of the float will allow the
rod and switch arm to lower and turn the drainer switch
off.
DO NOT ALLOW PUMP TO RUN DRY
Pump should not be allowed to run dry prior to shutting off.
To do so voids the warranty and could ruin the pump.
If necessary, adjust the float so this will not happen.
ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
Risk of electric shock. The Sump Pump
has a 3-prong electric plug. The third prong is used to
ground the pump to prevent possible fatal shock. The
third prong should never be removed. Your electrical
outlet should be the 3-prong, polarized type with an
internal ground.
Pump must be wired into a separate 15 amp GFCI branch
circuit.
DO NOT USE AN EXTENSION CORD.
Testing for Ground
For your safety, check your outlet for ground using a Circuit
Analyzer, (Figure 3A). A Circuit Analyzer will tell you by a
pattern of lights if the power, neutral, and ground wires are
correctly connected to your outlet. It can also be used to
check other outlets in your home. A Circuit Analyzer is avail-
able in the SEARS Electrical Department.
Grounding Outlet
If outlet is not grounded, install a copper wire (at least 14
gauge) from the outlet box, as shown in Figure 3B, to a metal
cold water pipe. Use ground clamp on pipe.
IMPORTANT:
The cold water pipe you use as a ground
must have metal continuity to electrical ground. If continuity
is interrupted by plastic, rubber, or other electrical insula-
tors; such as hoses, fittings, washers or gaskets (including
water meter or pump), a metal bypass must be used. Any
electrically insulated connector should be jumped (as shown
in Figure 3C), with a length of No. 4 wire clamped securely
at both ends.
Automatic Thermal Overload Protection
This pump motor has a built-in automatic thermal overload
protector. If the motor overheats, the protector will open
and cut off power to the motor before the heat damages it
internally. The overload will reset automatically and the
pump will restart after the pump cools down below the dan-
ger point.
DO NOT attempt to work on the pump or
motor if the overload seems to have tripped. The
motor may restart without warning at any time. You
could be injured and the pump damaged if it starts
when you are working on it.
DO NOT
attempt to repair a sump pump. Take it to SEARS
for service by a qualified technician.
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