.
38. Cut two 3/8" (9.5 mm) from the end of
each 1/8" (3.2 mm) pushrod tubes and
insert these as pushrod bushings in the
ribs in the four places shown on the
plan.
Slide a piece of 1/32" (.8 mm) music
wire through the holes and bushings
and align the bushings so the wire
slides freely from side to side before
gluing the bushings in.
39.
Remove the pins, sand the top of the stabilizer frame to get it level, then apply the 1/32" (.8mm) sheeting to the exposed
side. When dry, remove from board, and trim excess sheeting.
40.
Use a 1/8" dia. (3.2mm) bit to drill through the bottom of the leading edge, as
shown on the plans, to allow the rudder pushrod guide to pass through.
41.
Form the pushrod guide tube using a heat gun. This is easy to do if you insert a
toothpick or small bamboo skewer stick in one end then apply bending pressure
to the end of the tube as you carefully heat it with a heat gun in the bend area. As
the plastic heats up you will feel the resistance decrease. Keep the pressure on
until you can get it to bend 180 deg. without kinking as shown in the picture. Hold
in this position until it cools. When the pressure is released it will spring open and
you should have a nice tight 90 deg. bend, without kinks.
42.
Trim the tube to length and check to make sure the .027" (68mm) cable slides
easily through the tube. Hint: The cable will slide easier if you pre bend it to the
rough shape of the tube. When satisfied with the fit, glue the tube in as shown.
You will need to elongate the hole in the rib where the tube goes through next to
the wire.
43.
Get the 3/32"x1-1/2" brass tube from the hardware bag and cut it into four equal
sections. This can be easily done by rolling the tubing on a hard surface while
applying pressure with a sharp knife on the cut line.
44.
Slide the 1/32" dia. x16" (.8x406mm) music wire pushrod into the stab. Pass it
through the 3/32" (2.4mm) brass tube solder sleeve in the bay where the wire
and cable are soldered together and on out the other side until the wire is
centered.
45.
Slip the cable into the sleeve with the wire and adjust until the sleeve is about
half way between the rib bushing and the cable tube. Slip a scrap piece of balsa
wood between the sleeve and the bottom skin to protect the skin.
Now solder this assembly together using STA-BRITE® silver solder and flux.
When cool remove the scrap of wood and check for freedom of motion.
46.
Sand the bottom flat and glue on the
bottom 1/32"(.8mm) skin then trim.
Round off the leading edge.
47.
Cut and pin down the 1/4" (6.4 mm)
square elevator leading edges and the
3/32"x1/4" (3.7x6.4 mm) trailing edges.
Cut to length and glue in the
3/32"x1/4" (3.7x6.4mm) ribs leaving
them full depth for now. Glue the SG
gussets in the inner corners as shown.
