.
128. Mark the nacelles to identify left and right wing.Check the fit of each nacelle to its respective wing and correct if needed.
129.
Mark the exact center of the nacelle on the rear of N-2 so it can be seen when it is fitted to the wing.
130.
Thread the motor and esc wire through the holes in N-2 and N-1 then fit the nacelles to the bottom of the wing. Line up the
centerlines at N-2 and the rear of the nacelles to the centerline marks on the wing, and if everything looks good, glue the
nacelle to the wing.
131.
Repeat on the other nacelle.
132.
Bevel the bottom edge of N-7 to fit the nacelle sides then bevel the curved surface to fit the wing before gluing on the
corners of the nacelles. There are four of these and each needs to be fitted individually.
133.
When all the N-7s are glued in sand the tops down flush with the tops of N-1 and N-2 and back to the top skin of the wing.
Taper the rounded end of N-8 until it blends into the curve of the top skin of the wing when sitting on the flattened off N-7s
and glue down.
Glue triangular pieces of scrap on the top of the nacelles behind the trailing edge
and blend into the wing skins and sides of the nacelles.
134.
Lay down masking tape on the top skin next to the N-7s to protect the wing skin
while the top of the nacelle is rounded off and blended in.
135.
Finish sand the entire wing. Use your favorite filler on any imperfections and to
radius the nacelle and wing fairing joints.
136. Since the pushrods to the tail are internal they need to be installed when the stabilizer is glued in. To make this job easier,
cover stabilizer and elevators first. Then cut the hinge slots for the elevator and stabilizer, at the trailing edge of the
stabilizer and the leading edge of the elevator. Cut the seven 1"x3/4" SIG Easy Hinges in half lengthwise, giving you 14
hinges measuring 1/2"x3/4". Make sure each hinge fits correctly, but do not glue the hinges yet. Use four here and set the
rest aside for later.
Installing Easy Hinges
SIG’s famous Easy Hinges have been included in your kit to hinge all of the control surfaces. Each ultra-thin hinge is actually a
three-part laminate - a tough plastic inner core sandwiched by an absorbent wicking material. The hinges have been chemically
treated to slow down the reaction to thin CA glue (normally instant), to allow the glue time to soak all the way to the ends of the
hinge and into the surrounding wood. Once the glue has set, the hinge cannot be pulled out of the structure without also tearing
out the surrounding wood. All surfaces should be covered before hinging. Follow this hinging sequence for best results:
Begin by inserting all of the required hinges halfway into the hinge slots in the trailing edge of the stabilizer. Carefully slip
each exposed hinge end into its corresponding slot in the elevators.
To set the hinge gap, deflect the elevators downward to the maximum amount of their movement while firmly holding the
elevators to the trailing edge of the stabilizer. For best control response, the gap between the stab and elevators should
be as small as possible but large enough to allow full, non-binding movement. Pieces of tape can be used to hold the
elevators in the correct position to the stabilizer. Starting with one hinge, apply four small drops of THIN CA glue directly
onto the exposed hinge at the centerline. The glue will wick into the slot as it penetrates both the wood and the hinge.
Go to the next hinge and again apply four small drops of thin CA glue to the exposed hinge at the centerline. Repeat this
process with the remaining hinges. Remove the tape holding the flexed elevators, allowing the elevators to return to
their more or less neutral position.
