15
start removing large chunks of material. You will achieve a lot bet-
ter result if you take the time to develope a pattern and mark it on
the cowling for guidance when you are cutting.
There are no hard and fast "rules" for the exact perfect shape for
openings in a cowling. The best method is to "sneak up" on these
openings, continually trial fitting the cowling over the engine until
it finally fits properly. Once the opening is big enough for you to
slip it over the engine and place it in correct location on the model,
then continue modifying as needed.
A Dremel® Tool, or similar powered hand-tool, with a 5/8" dia.
coarse grit sanding drum is without a doubt the best tool to use
for removing the material quickly, easily and accurately. However,
if you do not have access to such a power tool, you can cut the
opening with a drill, a hobby knife, and a file - by first drilling a se-
ries of almost touching holes inside your pattern lines (1/8” dia.
works well); then using the knife to cut through the connecting ma-
terial between each hole; and finally finishing the edges of the
opening with the file or a sanding block.
❑
47) Mount the cowl to the fuselage with the four M3 x 10mm
Screws provided. Steps 35 and 36 on page 12 of this manual de-
scribes mounting the cowling.
LATER ... BEFORE FLYING ... SEAL THE HATCH
When using a glow engine we recommend that you seal the
Hatch/Windshield onto the fuselage to prevent fuel and exhaust
residue from getting inside the fuselage. The reason we built a
removable hatch into this airplane was to provide easy access to
the battery compartment when using an electric motor for flight.
Obviously, with a glow engine you do not need regular access to
this area of the airplane. We recommend tack gluing the hatch in
place with several small spots of glue along its edges. Then seal
over the seams with either clear tape or white covering material
(not supplied). This is reversible if you ever need access to the
fuel tank in the future.
Both glow engine and electric motor users resume assembly here.
❑
48) The clear plastic side windows are molded to fit into the
fuselage window frames from the inside. Note that each window
has a flange all the way around the outside perimeter to provide
a easy gluing surface. You may need to trim the flanges a little
closer than the factory did, in order to fit them in place. A sharp
scissors or snips works best for trimming the windows.
Glue the windows in place with 5-minute epoxy or RC-56 type
glue.
Do not
use thin CA glue because it can cloud the plastic.
Apply a thin bead of glue around the edge of the window and
press the window in place from the inside of the fuselage. Don’t
use too much glue or it may ooze out onto the outside surface of
the window. Use a few small pieces of low tack tape to hold the
window in place until the glue dries.
CONGRATULATIONS!
Your T-CLIPS 70 is completely assembled. However, it is NOT
ready for flight! There are a few very critical pre-flight tasks we
must perform before flying. These are extremely important and
should be approached with patience and care.
BALANCE
Balancing your airplane may be the single most important step in
preparing it for flight. All airplanes, model or full-size, must be ac-
curately balanced in order to fly successfully. An airplane that is
not properly balanced will be unstable and will most likely crash.
NOT ALL T-CLIPS WILL BALANCE THE SAME
It is impossible to produce a model airplane kit that will automat-
ically have the correct balance point. Not everyone uses the same
motor or radio gear - and all those items can vary in weight! Even
propellers of the same size can vary as much as a 3/4 oz. be-
tween different brands. That’s why every model must be balanced
before flying. Don’t feel that whatever the balance point your
model came out at is “good enough”. Check carefully and make
whatever adjustments are required. Trying to fly an out of balance
model is dangerous!
Preliminary: All the parts and components that will be in the air-
plane in flight must be installed in their correct positions. This in-
cludes all the radio gear, the propeller, battery pack, etc. Every
piece of essential equipment must be installed, ready for flight.
ACCEPTABLE BALANCE RANGE FOR T-CLIPS
is from 3-1/4" to 4-1/8"
AFT OF THE LEADING EDGE OF THE WING
The following table lists several acceptable measurements and
the equivalent percent of MAC (Mean Aerodynamic Chord).
DISTANCE
% MAC
3-1/4" = 26%
3-1/2" = 28%
3-3/4" = 30%
4-1/8" = 33%
A balance point approximately 3-1/2” aft of the leading edge
(which is at the main wing spar) is ideal for initial test flights. After
test flying you can adjust the balance point to fit your flying style.
CONTROL SURFACE TRAVEL
The following control surface data has been flight tested with the
T-CLIPS. However these numbers are only recommended as a
starting point. Your flying style may dictate changes.
PRE-FLIGHT
LOW RATE
Elevator
7/8" up
35%-50% expo
7/8" down
Ailerons
7/16" up
35%-50% expo
7/16" down
Rudder
1-1/4" right
25%-40% expo
1-1/4" left
HIGH RATE
Elevator
1-1/2" up
55%-70% expo
1-1/2" down
Ailerons
3/4" up
55%-70% expo
3/4" down
Rudder
2" right
50% expo
2" left
INSTALL SIDE WINDOWS