.
TAIL ASSEMBLY
Before beginning construction on the tail surfaces, carefully cut out all of the "5", "E", and "R" parts from the 3/8" printed
balsa sheet (Sheet #3). A jig saw works best for cutting these out. Cut just outside the lines, leaving all of the lines on the
parts. When fitting the parts in the structure, use a sanding block to bring the edges to an exact fit. Pin the plans to the
building board and cover them with waxed paper or plastic wrap.
Stabilizer and Elevator
HINGING TIPS
-
When assembling each hinge,
leave about a 1/16" gap between
the head of the pin and the edge of
the hinge when you make the
bend. After the bend is made and
the pin point is clipped, push the
pin head up against the side of the
hinge. This will move the bend
away from the hinge, preventing it
from causing a "bind".
-
Once you have cut the initial slot in
the wood with a knife and widened
it slightly with a small saw blade, a
thicker saber saw blade can be
used to help widen the slot to the
proper thickness for the heavy-duty
hinges.
-
Apply a drop of oil or a bit of
vaseline to the center "bulge" of
the hinges. This will prevent any
glue from bonding at the critical
hinge joint. Be sure to keep the flat
part of the hinges free of oil.
-
A good way to insure that the
hinges are soundly glued to the
structure is to apply Sig slow-
drying epoxy to each hinge slot
using a Sig Mini Glue Gun (SH-
627). Smear a layer of epoxy on
both sides of the hinges and push
them into the slots. Wipe away any
excess glue before it dries.
-
Work with only one control surface
at a time. For example, glue the
hinges to the stabilizer, allow them
to dry, then glue the elevator to the
hinges.
NOTE:
Many modelers feel that it is easier to
cover the horizontal tail surfaces
before they are hinged. If you elect to
do this, first test assemble the tail
surfaces on their hinges without glue,
to insure that a good match between
the elevator and stabilizer was
obtained during the sanding process.
Notice that the tips of the stabilizer
leading edge must be trimmed slightly
to blend in with the curve of the
elevator tips.
53.
Prepare the stabilizer/fin trailing edge by gluing a piece of 1/8"x3/8"x36" spruce to
a piece of 3/8"x3/4"x36" balsa. Be sure to keep these parts straight while the glue
dries. The spruce laminate increases the strength of the structure and helps to
prevent warps from developing. This 36" laminated piece must be used for both
the stabilizer trailing edge and the fin trailing edge. There is very little excess, so
cut these parts out carefulIy.
54.
a. Pin the laminated elevator trailing edge in place over the plans.
b. Cut the stabilizer leading edges from a piece of 3/8"x3/4"x36" balsa. Pin
the leading edges in place and glue them together at the center.
c. Glue in the 3/8" balsa 5-1, 5-2, and 5-3 center sheeting parts.
d. Add the 3/8" sq. balsa ribs and end pieces.
e. Glue in the 3/16" x 3/8" balsa diagonal ribs.
55.
a. When dry, remove the stabilizer
from the building board and
lightly sand the top and bottom to
smooth out the glue joints. Use a
sanding block to sand all of the
edges round. You may find that a
line drawn along the center of all
the frame pieces can help in
getting a consistently rounded
edge.
b. Trim off the leading edge point as
shown on the plans.
56.
a. Pin the 3/8" sq. x4" spruce elevator joiner in place on the plans.
b. Cut out the elevator leading edges from 3/8"x3/4" balsa, being sure to
notch the right-hand one for the elevator joiner. Glue the elevator leading
edges to the elevator joiner and pin them in place.
c. Add the pre-cut 3/8" basswood control horn mount.
d. Cut out the elevator tips and trailing edge pieces from 3/8"x3/4" balsa and
pin them in place. These parts will be trimmed to shape later.
e. Glue in all of the "E" parts, E-1 through E-6.
f. Add the 3/8" sq. balsa ribs and end pieces.
g. Add the 3/16"x3/8" balsa diagonal ribs.
Summary of Contents for SIGRC61
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